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#21 podmak

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Posted 05 November 2017 - 11:59 PM

replaced all 4 coils. the ride is 'somewhat' smoother, but the intermittent loss of traction/power keeps popping up. Always followed by CEL - once the engine is warmed up. CEL never comes on with cold engine. the rpm is still not rock-solid...keeps going up and down. 

 

i think i should check what the error code is now. lord it is hard to get an OBD1 scanner that scans Subaru ECU...please send help...

 

i am also still wondering, the air intake hose - the plastic bit between the Mas Airflow Sensor and the aluminium part of intake manifold. one of the ends is all cracked up, but I can't hear any of the air sipping through the cracks... so I am skeptical about this being an issue. 

 

i read somewhere that disconnecting spark plugs with engine running can help pinpoint faulty spark plug. so i took turns and is connected all 4 (one at a time) and the engine didn't die once. it just shuddered a bit more with only 3 cylinders firing, but it didn't stall... what does that say about my engine? Is there any merit to this theory? pulling the plug leads selectively while the engine is running?

 

another theory I wanted to run past this forum comes from a friend, he's not a car mechanic, he's some sort of mechanical engineer and we talked about cars the other and he came up with the following: In this (http://www.subyclub....ohc-twin-turbo/) thread I show pictures of my old fuel injectors. It can be clearly observed they are filthy as f***. specifically so around the seals. 

 

My friend thinks that similar build up of carbon and un-burned fuel/oil is around the intake and/or exhaust valves. He says that it's preventing the valve(s) from closing at the right time, resulting in intermittent misfire. 

 

i find this idea rather simple and elegant, considering I already replaced the fuel delivery system, smoked the airways for vacuum leaks and replaced the coil packs. I really wish to resolve my issues with engine on this car. 

 

i am wondering if anyone still reads this thread...


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#22 podmak

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Posted 06 November 2017 - 06:51 AM


The majority of issues that arise from these cubts are a result of bad plumbing.
Check your engine codes on the ecu.

ECU reads codes 22 and 66. I read elsewhere that the knock sensor (22) can be thrown in as a result of that 66. 66 is a twin turbo issue... so I think we're getting somewhere now.


Check your vac lines and their integrity.

Which are the VAC lines? I suspect these are vacuum lines... which pipes are these exactly?


Check the condition of your IC pipes and clamps, make sure they are sealing and the whole airflow system post turbos is in in good working order.

This is ok, smomed the system/fixed the leak. I think...

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#23 LukeFranky

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Posted 06 November 2017 - 06:59 AM

If you friend's theory about is right, running some Subaru upper engine cleaner through it might help.
 
I suspect an air leak, especially around that cracked up intake pipe you mentioned. That should be your focus. Try spraying some sort of flammable aerosol around that spot and see if the engine sucks it in and changes tone. That, or smoke test it.

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#24 Jimbo

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Posted 06 November 2017 - 10:25 AM

I would suggest the upper engine cleaner aswell. That stuff is magic and should be used every service. Itll clean up the valve heads nicely.

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#25 Ordex

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Posted 13 November 2017 - 05:14 PM

Like others have said I'd fix the dodgy intake pipe.

 

+1 for using the UEC as well. When I finally fixed my dodgy intake pipe the idle was all over the place. I emptied a can of UEC into the idle air control valve (because I had a code 24), reset the ECU and the problem was sorted. Maybe it was coincidence but it probably can't do any harm!

 

Not sure where you would find the original subaru ECU monitor tool...

I bought myself the evoscan Subaru Select Monitor (SSM1) cable. It's expensive but it works. Alternatively you can make your own, but I couldn't work out the exact USB/Serial converter to buy.

The evoscan software will also work for SSM1, but the biggest difficultly I've had is working out the memory address mapping. Plugging the connectors under the dash works every time if you have error codes, so that's all I do now and don't bother with the scanner!



#26 Barbbachello

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Posted 14 November 2017 - 10:23 AM

If you want an expensive but best option you can get. Send your ecu to these guys
http://www.enduringsolutions.com/

Will make it fully tunable and you can look at all the data live


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#27 podmak

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Posted 02 February 2018 - 01:49 PM

Thanks for the responses. I replaced the big air intake hose between the air filter housing and the aluminium start of intake manifold. And, embarrassingly enough, the CEL doesn't come on randomly anymore.
 

So, it's a great progress, and I thank you.

 

 

CEL now only comes on when the intake manifold pressure raises above ~4PSI; According to my pressure gauge.

 

There is no CEL when I step on it gently, keeping the intake manifold pressure in negative, and only momentarily going up to just below 4PSI.

 

Anything crazy like 4000rpm and >11PSI for longer than just a few seconds noticeably decreases the power and the CEL comes on immediately.

 

 

Which I think points to a primary turbo problem. (Please note, from my previous posts in this thread, there is CEL code 66)

 

 

Does anyone know how many PSI is the wastegate actuator on primary turbo designed for? (This is 2l twin turbo EJ20HDWAJE)

 

And how do I get to the vacuum lines above the passenger side front wheel arch?


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#28 01OBK

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Posted 03 February 2018 - 04:58 PM

Primary wastegate pressure is 7psi but the solenoid in the front wing controls it to 12-14psi I think.
Should be able to get to it by pulling the inner splash gaurd out

#29 podmak

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Posted 13 March 2018 - 08:16 AM

Primary wastegate pressure is 7psi but the solenoid in the front wing controls it to 12-14psi I think.
Should be able to get to it by pulling the inner splash gaurd out

Thanks.


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#30 podmak

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Posted 13 March 2018 - 08:31 AM

I replaced the primary turbo last week. Not much of a change; CEL still comes on and off.

 

I also got some EJ22 O2 sensor at the wreckers and whacked that in last night just to see if there will be any change... There wasn't.

 

I think I need to re-think my strategy now...


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#31 podmak

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Posted 25 June 2018 - 08:37 AM

1000 years later - disconnecting the O2 sensor fixed the rough idle. The RPM needle doesn't fluctuate any more, the random CEL is gone; 

 

I found it surprising to discover that the car starts and runs really well without the O2 sensors. A bit of a research on google reveals that the O2 sensors are not actually critical to the operation of the EFI internal combustion (as opposed to Air Intake Sensor (Mass Air Flow)); There sure are uses for the O2, which are not subject of this thread, and my intention here is solely to pass this onto the next twin turbo struggling fellow; 

 

My sincerest thanks to the good people who offered their expertise here; 


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#32 Chaapppppp

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Posted 21 November 2018 - 07:28 AM

Does the story end there?

#33 podmak

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Posted 22 November 2018 - 07:13 AM

Nope. It did not end there.

Disconnecting the O2 sensor made a temporary difference, but over time, starting the car would take longer. It would take increasingly long to crank in the morning, resulting in premature starter motor failure.

Replacing the starter and re-connecting the sensor, as well as $250 later, I find myself looking at the same exact issue.

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#34 podmak

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Posted 22 November 2018 - 10:56 AM

So, I decided it was time to take it apart, and see if I can find a crack in some of the vacuum plumbing. I took off the airbox, intercooler, alternator, battery, windscreen washer tank. Hoping this would clear up enough room to take of the intake manifold - but that is proving to be a daunting task.

Is it necesaary to remove the passenger side turbo to get to that intake manifold bolt nearest the firewall on passenger side, I wonder.

And are there any shops in NSW that might stock some of the silicone piping that seems to all be in such a poor condition... I checked the online Partsouq for the main air duct that connects both turbos to the airbox, and the part is mostly not available: 14462AA100

Or, alternatively, it might be worth doing research on welding the plastics just to refresh the mating surfaces...

Anyway, so that's the story thus far...

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#35 Barbbachello

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Posted 22 November 2018 - 12:56 PM

Dont think you need to remove the turbo but you need to shove the inlet out of the way. Try amayama for the inlet pipe. 


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#36 podmak

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Posted 22 November 2018 - 01:35 PM

Amayama have the part in stock. Only $280... go figure. ... Thanks Barbbachello.

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#37 Ordex

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Posted 09 December 2018 - 08:10 PM

Goodluck with it. I completed an intake tract repair job last year - thread here

Didn't have to remove the turbos to get at the intake manifold bolts.

While you're at it there is a whole raft of rubber bits and gaskets that could be replaced (imagine one of those little coolant hoses letting go).



#38 podmak

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Posted 09 December 2018 - 09:47 PM

Nice thread, thanks Ordex. I got it (the manifold) off last week. And then I ordered parts from Amayama.

I cleaned the manifold and the fuel/air steel piping. Painted all of them this weekend/today.

Now, I'm waiting for them parts to arrive, and while I do, I will do those o-rings under the coolant inlet aluminium piece, that sits on top of the engine.

And without doubt, all of the coolant hoses in my reach.

FYI, I took the passenger side turbo off. I can't see how you guys managed to get that air intake plastic bit out of your way to get to the manifold bolt... Of well... anyway... so that's what I've been up to this weekend.

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#39 podmak

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Posted 09 January 2019 - 08:42 PM

I should probably do my own research, but if some kind soul knows right off the bat: what's the torque spec on them intake manifold bolts...?

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#40 podmak

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Posted 09 January 2019 - 08:45 PM

And where would we get some nicely, conveniently packed timing belt kit... anyone?

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