111 replies to this topic

[aekOne]

i just dusted the seats off for you mate so they're ready to go. see ya in the morning

[Shaz]

If you decide to get the tints done tomoz Hayden, I still have a spot available mate.

Cheers,
Shazza

[HaydenGT]

cheers shaz but i might have to miss out this trip but next time for sure (Y)

[HaydenGT]

Picked up the wagon today.
The body is a bit of a disaster with rust but nothing a couple of hours and a lot of sanding wont fix
On the plus side it made it home with no dramas (:
I have owned it for a day and theses noway you could recognize it.
First of all the roof racks went, Wrx seats went in with minor modification.
I got my hands on some 17's and done a quick customization on the grill which i still have to finish.
Next week i will have my varex on aswell (:
I want to do a good service on it soon. What filters and oils would you recommend?



Hayden

[Marv]

Pull the side trims off and clean underneath them.

[HaydenGT]

Righto so heres the thing
I went for a drive tonight and was a big dickhead and i ended up hitting the gutter with the left rear wheel which is now buckled and my whole rear suspension and cradles is bent and makes the driving impossible above 60.
The car is now in my shed and it all needs to be replaced so my question is what parts are an upgrade from wrx's etc my thoughts are that while its all broken why not upgrade
The rear hubs need to be replaced also so i am thinking of puting hubs that fit to my car that house the wrx 2 pot rear brakes
Please help
Much appreciated
Hayden

[Scuba-Roo]

Go to a local wreckers and buy a gen1 gx rear hubs, gen2 cross member, lateral arms, sway bar, sway bar links.

You'll also need the studs from the gen2 rear diff.

Use the gen1 diff and hubs as their different to the gen2. And swapping them to the gen2 won't be any upgrade. Only advantage of using the gen2 cross member set up is to run better sway bars. Check my wagon build thread as I did it to my wagon.

I wouldn't bother with 2 pot rears in your situation as you need 4 pot fronts.. Just get 277mm two pots on the front, decent pad's and fluid and that'll be heaps.


Might pay to put some money towards driver training. Were all young once, but you were lucky this time.

With the money you saved From not doing a 2pot rear 4 pot front brake set-up do some advanced driver training.

[Sam]

….………
Might pay to put some money towards driver training. Were all young once, but you were lucky this time.

With the money you saved From not doing a 2pot rear 4 pot front brake set-up do some advanced driver training.
..………


This is what we were thinking last night Hayden when you didn't show up..

[HaydenGT]

Haha i just have bad luck and im not used to the awd part :/
Unfortunatly i always crash the cars i actually like unlike my thrasher pulsar
I had a look at it today and i think its only the part that mounts the suspension in the middle.
(many apologies for the terms used as im a mechanical newb)
Im thinking of replacing this than testing it and going from there, also since the swaybar and sway bar links look screwed im going to upgrade to whiteline sway bar and not sure what links, im sure theres some on ebay.

[skillionaire]

Hi,

Stay safe out there mate, we've all done it!

Hope she's an easy fix. Curbing a Subaru is usually more damage than meets the eye, just remember that.

Cheers,
Nik

[HaydenGT]

Yeah thats what im afraid of. I gues its just going to be fix and test sort of thing for awhile unless i can find the whole rear setup cheap
Hayden

[Scuba-Roo]

If you bent the cross member you would have bent the arm's aswell. I got my complete rear set-up with sway bar for $300 from a wreckers.

[HaydenGT]

I dont know what part it is but i know it attaches to the chassis and the rear diff? What do i need to do to drop it out?
Hayden

[AussieTemplar]

I noticed red-p's.. how old are you man?

[HaydenGT]

18 and a month off my greens.. Obviously still an idiot haha
Hayden

[AussieTemplar]

18 and a month off my greens.. Obviously still an idiot haha
Hayden

Haha, good shit man. I turn 18 on monday.. Green P's two weeks later!

[Ben_20EJT]

yer, being on ur greens dosnt stop u being a idiot, i blew a tyre the other week doing skids on some dirt. stick in the side wall.

[AussieTemplar]

yer, being on ur greens dosnt stop u being a idiot, i blew a tyre the other week doing skids on some dirt. stick in the side wall.

when you drive an auto it helps stop being an idiot

[Sam]

Be an idiot, just be really good at it like I am.

[Scuba-Roo]

Man I'm glad I get of my pooper plates in a week.

The cross member is the black frame looking thing that holds your diff, it has four arms that come off it and go to the bottom of your hubs you call them the lateral arms or lateral links. These control your alignment for the rear end, you'll notice the rear two have the sway bar linked to them.


Pretty easy to remove it all. Crack the 32mm nut on the cv joints on the rear. Do this befor you jack the car up. Then jack the car up and put stands under the rear tow hooks. Take ya wheels off and unbolt the muffler, if it's stock you'll only need to unbolt it from the diff back.
Then unbolt the cover over the rear of your tail shaft (where it attaches to the diff) then undo the 4 bolts that hold the tail shaft to the diff. While your there unbolt the heat shield and 4 big bolts just under the diff.
Use a pin punch to punch out the spring pin in the cv shafts last thing is to remove the sway bar. All you need to do is unbolt it from each mount on the body its one bolt on each side. don't worry about removing it from the lateral links.
You'll probably be sick of laying on your back by now so get out and go have a drink and a snack.
Undo the bolt on each side that attach to your hub from the lateral links and pull out the cv shafts.
Put a trolley jack under the diff, this is to help lower it all down. Then on each side you'll see 2 bolts that hold the cross member to the body of the car. Luckily you don't need to be under the car to get them as you can see them from the wheel arche remove them and lower the jack down and the whole rear section should come down.

The rear hubs are just held in by the two bolts on the shock, the rear trailing arm and the hand brake cable. When I replaced my hub the replacement come with a hand brake cable so I just removed the cable from near the lever and did it that way. Otherwise you need to pull of the caliper and disc and pull the cable out of there.

I've probably made a few spelling and gramma mistakes, I am sorry but it is 2am and im on my iPhone.