148 replies to this topic

[Alex]

Heya Nick.


dp is a '74 TA22 Celica. My other project, probably a long long term thing. Or a very short term, if I sell it soon.

Your PSS9s are pure drool worthy, and I always told myself if I ever went to coil overs in my BG5 GTB Legacy, I'd go straight for the PSS9s. I'd love to hear your thoughts about them when the car is back on the road!

I've done a similar swap to you, in that I've gone a non-dccd six speed from an '03 JDM STi GDB. Front end is still BG5/GC8, rear end is wholly GDB R180 Suretrak, utilising Whiteline rear adjustable arms, winding them to 405mm in length (GC8/BG5 = 400mm length arms, GDB = 410mm).

I haven't had to change the ABS, which is fine for the rear end.

May I ask why have you decided to go for the wider track front?

The reason I ask is that most people I know who has had BC5/BF5/GC8/GF8 and did the GDB control arm/driveshaft swap to widen the track, most often then not revert back to the narrower GC8 stuff, because they find it causes horrible understeer.

[Nizza]

i havent touched the control arms in regards to track width at all, these drive shafts and g/box are from a GC8 V6, from what i understand they should be identical in length to what was already in the car. altho i have replaced the hub ends of the cv's for the different position of the abs ring, the length appeared to be the same.

before i started work on the car, it used to oversteer insanely. but it could hav been a combination of bent rear control arms (which i replaced), bad tires, and more than likely a bent strut (from when the last gronk that had it smacked a gutter). being used to driving my BG5 probably didnt help the situation espesially when i got some lift off oversteer, absolutely scared the shite out of me. goes to show that inexperience can be deadly.

im hoping the 60/40 split of the box will counter any understeeer issues but in reality i NEED to drive it before i start making decisions about how i want the car to handle.

[Alex]

Ahh I see.

When I saw you swapping the ABS tone rings and ABS sensors, I had assumed you converted the front end to GDB as well as the rear end. (I didn't realise that V6 had the GDB style ABS sensors/tone rings and not earlier GC8 ones)

V6 GC8 should be the same as what's already in there in terms of geometry.

V6 = 5 speed?

[Nizza]

your half right, the hubs and brakes are from a GD but the drive train is GC

yeps 4.44 ratio, once it blows up ill be gettin ppg internals. but should last a while, i never ever launch the start

[Alex]

For the price of the PPG internals, consider a six speed (and launches)




Only real disadvantage though is you gain about 30kg to the total weight.

So to counter that, I lost 35kg bodyweight

[Nizza]

HAHAHAha, yer i hear those 6sp are bullet proof, too many gears for racing dont u think?

[Alex]

You're welcome to have a drive of mine if you like (no skids... else them PSS9s would look good in a burgundy wagon!)

Horses for courses I guess. But you'd want to shave as much weight off as possible, and if drags/launches aren't in your scheme of things with the car, by all means, 5 speeds are where it's at.

Fatcat67 is running a PPG/PAR (can't remember specifically what) straight cut box, and he swears by it!

I chose a six speed for mine for reliability. Fast street with the occasional track day and drag race, and I'm happy. Some would say that the V3 STi/BG5 GTB 4.44 would have been perfect for my needs, but I'm an overkill kind of guy.

Looking at your build, I figured you were an overkill kinda guy too

[Nizza]

Looking at your build, I figured you were an overkill kinda guy too

haha funny u say that, was tossing up between dba 4000 and 5000 seriers rotors. them 5k rotors are sooooo dear but i thought hey why not. over kill is where its at yo.

soo if theres anyone out there that can hook a brother up with a good price im all ears

might take u up on that drive offer one day, once the cars on the road i look forward to comming down to one of your guys infamous meets

[Alex]

I went with DBA4000 with mine only because

1) I couldn't justify spending so much on a consumable
2) Was worried about disc warpage between two different metals (disc and aluminium top hat) expanding at different temps.

If you want a serious disc, try the brembo brand disc. World of difference in terms of metal composition, and are a league above the DBA's. You'll pay more for them too!

The track boys I know rock with the RDA slotteds, believe it or not, as they can get at least 2-3 meets out of their discs, and swap them out for much cheaper (about a third of the price!), than getting a set of DBA's and swapping them out for 3-5 meets.

http://www.vsport.com.au/ if you decide to venture down the brembo brand disc path...

Else if you go RDAs... One of the lads here works for supercheapauto i believe...

[Nizza]

they say the alluminium hat allows the metal to expand easier and in a more uniform nature. how are the 4k's? slotted or crossdrilled too? also what pads u using?

[Xon]

Nizza your guess is correct, DCCD controls the torque split not the wheel speed.

RE gearbox strength, if you're using a v5 DCCD box I assume it's from an STi RA. The RA gear sets are wider, and therefor stronger than standard gears. Obviously they're still breakable, but not so easily.

[Alex]

You see, its that very reason about the two different metals that makes me very uneasy about using the DBA5000s. Although it's hearsay, I have heard of stories going around about the aluminium copping heat/stress fractures, and consequently failing. I can't confirm nor deny that though.

I am a firm believer of slotted rotors, and that cross drilled rotors are the combined work of Hitler, Saddam and Justin Bieber to cause pain, suffering and grief to human kind on planet earth. The cross drilling is known to crack, especially under motorsports conditions, and unless they're changed every track session, or for a pure aesthetic point of view, for the club sportsman, cross drilling isn't where it's in my point of view.

Fronts I'm rocking DBA4000 326mm slotted discs with '05 STi Brembos and some sort of rubbish soft pads I got off a group buy on rexnet. They do the job OK, they're soft on the discs, which is what I wanted. Brembo Sport++ fluid, but I'll be changing that soon for fresh brake juice.

Rears, I've gone RDA slotted 315mm with '05 STi Brembos single pots and the same pads.

I couldn't justify the price difference of $280 EACH for the DBA rotors vs $195 A PAIR for the RDAs.

Pads, I'll be going to QFM A1RMs. I've only heard very good things about these pads.
http://www.qfmperformance.com/

[RX25SE]

I should have paid more attention to this thread.


Very nice work!

[Nizza]

The RA gear sets are wider, and therefor stronger than standard gears. Obviously they're still breakable, but not so easily.

yep thats the reason i went with it, iv heard other blokes using them for circuit stuff the ratios of 1st to 4th are meant to be the shiz

Pads, I'll be going to QFM A1RMs. I've only heard very good things about these pads.
http://www.qfmperformance.com/

thatll be the 5th time ive seen that brake brand/number ill deffenatly look into it. as for the drilled disc, ive heard the same thing but im also guess the ones craking are shite quailty, and besides im almost certain they'll replace the rotor for free and pay subsequent damages. had a similar issue with a mates zuki swift, the new engine mount snapped and he got paid for all damages caused to the engine.

I should have paid more attention to this thread.
Very nice work!

thanks mate appreciate it

[Nizza]

STILL trying to get the brakes together...

got them blasted back to bare and rebuilt them:




because the brakes wernt fitted and i had no air compressor i had to mac gyver it up again and managed to get the pistons out without ruining the walls:



pistons out:


then rebuilt them with the seal kit i bought:




so now they're at the shop gettin sprayed and my dba's and pads will be ordered very soon

[Nizza]

does anyone know what kind of grease is used in the bolts that join the calipers together? its some kind of grey lubey stuff?

[portugese_gorilla]

I think it might be anti-seize lube

[Nizza]

so heres where im at...

sprayed, yes i scratched it dont want to hear it!


because oldmate didnt/couldnt get the vinyls under the clear ill have to do it my self (ie get a mate to do it)

ALSO ROTORS CAME TODAY!!!!!!!!!!!! here they are teh sex DBA 5k fronts and 4k rears dummy fitted





and ofcourse with stupid non brembo clearing braids, made me want to cry, soooo dam close!


once the calipers are re-cleared ill hook'em up and only wheels will be left.....then sorting out what i could only imagine to be a million gremlins.


the question is should i get a pair of 6mm spacers? ive heard the cons for them, but wouldnt adding a 6mm spacer be almost the same as getting a wheel with the correct offset? or bite the bullet and test fit someother oz superturismos?

enjoy the pics!

[aekOne]

looking good mate. shame about the rims not clearing. you could run some bolt on spacers but i reckon since you seeming to be doing this build the right way, sell the braids and look for something that will the clear the brembos

don't worry to much about the paint on the calipers, if your using them in motorsport conditions they'll get chipped up and the paint will get cooked anyway so it's never ending uphill battle to keep them looking "pretty"

do you have a time line for finishing this or are you just pottering along and seeing how you go?

[Nizza]

yeh i know these calipers will get thrashed something severe but i thought i might aswell have them look pretty for the mean time before i start competing.

realisticly it should be finshed around late next year, but if moneys good and the gremlins dont show up it might be done early/mid next year, but yeh alot of shiz can happen in a few months so im not setting anything in concrete.

if i can sell the braids ill be a very happy man but ive had no bites, which makes purchasing new wheels a little more annoing, but ill just have to wait a few more weeks i guess (as rego ticks away)