382 replies to this topic

[Scuba-Roo]

 
Yes its a full car just with a hit in the rear so can't be fixed.

Fuuuck was that auctions? Or ebay? Gonna be on the hunt for one myself

[JDWhiteWRX]

That was quick. Well done mate.

 

Yes well this car was my daily drive so I want to get it sorted ASAP. This is what I'll be driving to work until then

 

 

Fuuuck was that auctions? Or ebay? Gonna be on the hunt for one myself

 

Yes Pickles auctions.

[Liberty]

Ha ha ha, is that even legal to drive on the roads?

[JDWhiteWRX]

Yes, well sort of. It's a 4-point so should be engineered as a 2 seater technically.

[JDWhiteWRX]

Picking up the half cut today.

 

Does anyone know if I will be able to fit the XT forester front crossmember in the Outback? or will I need to change front crossmembers at all to clear the turbo dump pipe?

 

cheers.

[sbv]

Not sure about fitment of the forester crossmember in the outback (would think you'd have no issues), but the up-pipe wont clear your N/A outback crossmember, so you'll need to swap to a turbo crossmember of some description.

[JDWhiteWRX]

ok thanks, according to Ben at Ichiban the forester crossmember is perfect but I may have to change the steering rack over as the splines on the knuckle may not line up with the forester steering rack.

 

pretty excited to have this in my garage, will start attacking it this weekend

 

 

[sbv]

...ah you'll have it knocked over in a weekend or two.

 

Looking forward to seeing this progress! Keep us updated!

[JDWhiteWRX]

I got to the point where I am ready to lift the chassis up which will leave the motor and gearbox sitting on the front crossmember. The Foz has alloy control arms too which is a nice upgrade on the Outback.

I didn't start on it until after lunch as I had some things to do around the house but pretty happy with today's progress.



I basically removed the undertray and u-brace then drained all the fluids, removed radiator, airbox and washer bottle then disconnected all the electrical plugs from the motor plus boost lines and heater core lines.
Then I got underneath again and disconnected front swaybar, removed gearbox support, abs, brake lines and rear control arm mounts.



Just got the 4 bolts that hold the crossmember to do then lift it all up tomorrow.

[Scuba-Roo]

Them control arms will increase the track at the front around 10mm each side from memory

[bobbyjimmy]

Bit off topic, but on the half cut - does it half and are you not using the brake proportioning valve (bolts on the RH tower, 4 lines to it)?

[JDWhiteWRX]

Them control arms will increase the track at the front around 10mm each side from memory

 

So its the GC8 ones you need if you don't want to increase the track?

 

10mm should still work or are longer drive shafts needed as I am using my dual range box and wasn't planning on changing drive shafts?

 

Bit off topic, but on the half cut - does it half and are you not using the brake proportioning valve (bolts on the RH tower, 4 lines to it)?

 

Yes it has a brake proportioning valve and I don't think I'll be using it but I don't want to part with anything at this stage just in case.
 

[bobbyjimmy]

 
 Yes it has a brake proportioning valve and I don't think I'll be using it but I don't want to part with anything at this stage just in case.
 

No worries.
You shouldn't need it anyways.

[JDWhiteWRX]

Yes but I find the brakes a little lacking which will be worse with a turbo motor so a brake upgrade may happen. I was going to upgrade the pads first and see if that helps. The rear brakes are non-vented and pretty small.

[Scuba-Roo]

 
So its the GC8 ones you need if you don't want to increase the track?
 
10mm should still work or are longer drive shafts needed as I am using my dual range box and wasn't planning on changing drive shafts?
 

Just use the foz drive shafts? They are already the correct length
If you use the gen3 steering rack you'll need to adjust the tie rods out though.

[JDWhiteWRX]

Just use the foz drive shafts? They are already the correct length
If you use the gen3 steering rack you'll need to adjust the tie rods out though.

 

I'm using my dual range gearbox so will need to use the shafts from that as they are female ends, the Foz has male ends into the box so can't use them.

 

The other known issue is the steering rack, I would like to use the Foz rack but the splines on the u-joint are different so may have to use the Outback rack. The Outback has pretty loose steering so was hoping to use the newer Foz rack but it may just be due to the rear control arm bushings being worn out and oozing grease. Using the Foz control arms and bushings will fix that but will it work with my 10mm shorter drive shafts. I will have to compare length to make sure they are actually shorter.

[JDWhiteWRX]

More progress today, I finished undoing the last 4 nuts holding the chassis to the front crossmember then got the engine crane and lifted it off so I could roll the motor out from underneath.



Once clear I moved the chassis into a position where I have good access for removing the wiring harness. I then went about removing the dump pipe off the motor and popped the ball joints out so I could remove the drive shafts and then separate the gearbox from the motor.

[Liberty]

Loving the updates mate! Keep 'em coming!

[JDWhiteWRX]

Loving the updates mate! Keep 'em coming!

 

Thanks mate, good to know someone is reading this

 

Got the dash out this afternoon but then got stuck removing the star shaped bolts that hold the air bag controller into the centre console. Will have to go buy a tool to remove them so I can remove the heater core and then the wiring harness.

[Scuba-Roo]

Swap the ends of the shafts over if its possible.
Im running the shorter cv joints with the extea track. Been okay last 4000kms and my cvs are pretty worn already

Gc8 sti steering rack will fit and is 2.7turns lock to lock same as your rexy i think?

Why dont you wanna use the foz box?