The removal is so you can get a good picture of what's going on and undo the nuts.
I had put the tmic back and cleaned by then.
With the nuts loosened and a clearer picture of the underside in your head it was much simpler to lengthen and retighten
Understood, but unnecessary IMO & it will be a shit fight for a noob like Moob to put it back on.
Yea but does the ecv need to be changed? And i cant understand how to unbolt the rod from the wastegate let alone get my hands down there to fit to do it ...
Well, yes it does man!
Rob clearly stated that in his post so in effect you have only done half of the mod and now you are second guessing if it is actually necessary!
There are 2 lock nuts on either side of the adjustable rod you need to undo. The lower one is reverse thread. Once they are loosened you can adjust the rod. Clockwise will loosen the rod/valve. Access to it isn't that bad man!
I know this is all new to you, you're learning as you go and there is so much to take in .......but Jesus Christ I find it frustrating that you would dive in headfirst and attempt the ECG mod when you haven't even read the procedure properly. Nor do you even know if it has anything to do with your actual problems.
If I were you I'd quit trying to modify the EGC system and go back to finding the initial problem by using the checklist Rob gave you in the first few pages of this thread. Get the Vac line diagram, which is also in this thread, and remove, clean and inspect every vac line one by one and make sure they are actually connected to the correct component.
You mentioned earlier the DPS wasn't connected when you bought the car so I reckon the chance of other incorrect plumbing is pretty high.
DO YOU HAVE A CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON?
DO YOU HAVE ANY CODES?
I find it hard to believe there are no codes if you car is obviously not running properly.
