293 replies to this topic

[WillC]

I think I would miss my 1000 --> 3000rpm range boost too much.

 

Surprisingly it has more torque down low.

[Tim.]

^Definitely BossJosh. Plenty of valuable information in this thread that would otherwise get lost!

Surprisingly it has more torque down low.

That's interesting. Was your TT tuned before ripping the aids out?

[WillC]

Pulse tuned the B4. It took alot of though before I went single. But I am very surprised with the result. My bottom end isn't standard anymore though its built.

[Adam]

This is awesome!

[Mbooma]

Yea definitly need to make a new threadpage as my head is all over the place lol trying to keep up with u all lol

[Tim.]

Yeah the thread has been de-railed slightly...

 

But this is an excellent checklist - definitely what you should be trying first.

 

it's not a sensor or engine issue.
it's vacuum/ solenoid/ changeover related.

step1
remove intercooler and check the pipes and connections are in good order and that the ICV works
Check your BOV is not leaking/ block it up temporarily
While TMIC is off, inspect the intake pipe for cracks/ leaks and ensure all breather pipework is in the right spot and good order and the PCV is operating correctly

Step2
remove each and every vacuum line between the BBoD and other components one by one and clean/ check/ replace them as necessary. making sure you replace any restrictor pills

Step3
remove the BBoD and clean all the solenoids, their vents and lines one by one. 

Step4

put all that crap back together

Step5
remove the boost control lines at the Prmary Turbo and plug them up (temporary)

Step6
fit a piece of vac hose between the compressor outlet nipple and wastegate actuator to give you wastegate pressure boost control (7/9 psi)

Step7
Reset ECU and test the system

If you still have issues then move down the list here
Step8
Block up the Secondary BPV. Really it's 99% useless anyway
test

Step9
Check operation and adjustment of ECV. It may not be tight enough causing exhaust gas to divert into the secondary at all times. 
you'll eventually get some boost at around 5000rpm if this is stuck open

[Mbooma]

I hav. a mate that gave me an idea wat if i was to get a dj smoke machine seal it to my intake an run the car that way if i hav a leak the smoke will come out of the hole???

[Dav_fre]

Maybe a good idea if your still pinging from last night...

Otherwise another idea might be to try using contact cleaner on any areas you suspect could be leaking...just spray on and you'll hear the idle change if there is a leak.

[Robbks]

^^ as above
run teh car and spray around some carbie cleaner in/ at near all the joins and pipes.

i had a funny issue on my secondary turbo,
Car would boost fine on primary, change to secondary then make no boost.
turns out the metal pressed in adaptor that holds the recirculation pipe for the secondary BOV into the turbo housing would pop out under boost.

was hard to see because is only lifted a few mm when boost was running through it but would sit back down when not on the secondary

Just to re-iterate what was said about more low down torque with single turbo.

TT.  the system is highly flawed and restrictive on both the inlet and exhaust side
look at how tiny the intake pipe across the motor is into the primary. 
Then look at the exhaust, it's a terrible design.
The primary turbo is tiny and again restrictive

Now drop in a single turbo,
you get a shorter and larger intake which is a huge reduction in restriction
the same with the exhaust, 
when you remove restriction from an engine you allow it to breath and reduce "pumping losses"
(the physical work the engine has to to to suck air in and blow it out.  think of breathing through 6ft of 12mm garden hose compared with 3ft of 2.5" beer bong hose)
Less restriction = more power

then because of all these pumping losses are reduced, you have less backpressure and heat build up in the cylinders, allowing you to run more ignition timing for more power again.
SO you're now multiplying the power by big factors,
and with a more efficient engine, you're using less fuel and getting better longevity, plus using the natural power band that teh engine has (2000-5000rpm) rather than having to rev it's t!ts off to make it go.

TT is AIDS,
I had one only to prove that I could modify it to make it better and it was a reasonable cruiser,
I succeeded. then sold it to buy a H6. which is better on fuel, more comfy, better sounding and faster on the street and track without a million engine mods than my TT ever was....

[Mbooma]

Ok well from wat i can tell ... a single to tricky and costly ....

[Robbks]

no,
single is simple and cheap.

TT is tricky and costly

for $1000 in parts and tuning you'll have a far better car

[Tim.]

Being realistic, I don't think it can be done for $1000.

 

If you're talking intercooler, turbo, headers and exhaust then I think you've already blown the $1000 before tuning and labour.

[Robbks]

intercooler only needs the alloy elbows, I bought a pair for $20
turbo $200 for a TD05, $150 for a TD04
Headers/ dump/ up-pipe/ mid-pipe ~$100 from a junked WRX, (or giveaway as i've seen multiple times in the past)

IIRC you just need to drop in a Bugeye ECU.
 

[Mbooma]

Iirc?? Really a bug eye goes straight in? and is there a diy thread?

[Tim.]

That's not too bad at all. My thinking was using something better than stock WRX equipment. But that would work fine as well.

[Morgan]

Iirc??

 

If I Recall Correctly

[aekOne]

some gen 3's can also run a V5 STI ecu for the single conversion.

[WillC]

I put an Audm wrx 2002 ecu in my B4 and tuned it. NOTE YOU MUST KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING IT REQUIRES A SINGLE PIN CHANGE. Also you must scale your injectors. The whole ecu swap can be done for 350. Then you will eventually need a real tune.

[WillC]

actually ill just post up what pin needa to be changed when I get home. I already made a nice B4 to Wrx conversion spread sheet