547 replies to this topic

[duncanm]

ends are pretty straightforward -- flatten the tab washer, unscrew.

[Miguel]

Racks are easy. You do need some special tools to do it properly though and the Teflon seals on the pinion are an arsehole to install even with a correctly sized sleeve to shrink them down.

[cowie165]

Jim I paid around $600 for R&R plus refurb on the rack in my old bilstein gen2. $300 for the refurb sounds about right!

 

Hey did you do an AT flush/change in your drive? Mine is prob due and has an odd burnt smell that I notice when I park - wondering if the AT fluid is cooked but prob needs a change regardless of whether it's at fault or not. Haven't lifted the car in a while so might be an oil leak onto a pipe

[Jimbo]

It's probably not a bad idea to give it some fresh juice!

I think it's a service thing that tends to be forgotten about easily. I reckon the transmission fluids (front & rear diff + box) in mine were/are still factory original. So far I have done the actual AT itself. Shifts a bit smoother and less clunky.

It's a pretty easy job, just a bit messy!. Just undo the lines from the bottom of the radiator (AT fluid is cooled by an exchanger built in the bottom of the rad) aim them into a bucket and make sure they are secure, then turn the car over. They'll splutter a bit then flow pretty quickly. Replace the amount of fluid that comes out. From memory, I think mine spat out about 4L or so, maybe less. A 5L tub of trans oil should be ample.

Re-attach the AT lines to the radiator, then fill up the trans via the dipstick hole (primary turbo side). It's a squeeze to get a funnel down there but one of those cheap Supercheap ones with the flexi-funnel helps. Just have to squish the end in a bit and pour slowly. I find it a bit easier to remove the intercooler bracket that sits there.

While you're under there, it would be worth while doing the front diff too. You need a T70 torx bit to get the drain plug undone, again, refill via dipstick (secondary turbo side). I read up the front diff takes about just over 1L.

As for the rear diff, I think you just need a 3/4" breaker bar/ratchet to undo the plug on the back (head of ratchet fits into square plug). I've never done it but I think you need a big syringe with some tube on it to get the fluid out and fresh fluid back in. It takes just under 1L, so 2L of something that's 75-90 should cover both diffs!

Eventually I'll change out the fluid in the front and rear diff and I want to add an external AT oil cooler in place of the existing internal one on the radiator. 

They're pretty pricey on eBay so I figured I should be able to go down to Pick & Pay and pinch an external cooler off something, flush it out and clean it up.

[CRUISN]

You can get a good quality Derale trans cooler on Ebay for about $80.

[Jimbo]

Well, with the harrowing and near demise of the steering rack, I figured I may as well tackle a few front end bits while I was at it.....

Strange though, as this weekend the steering rack feels normal again. No nasty vibration or noises, feels great. Still has plenty of juice left in it. Seems to have sort of fixed itself...

I seem to be thinking it's related to the cold weather. As it's a touch warmer, it's not showing any symptoms.

[Niko]

Where is the keyboard going?

[Jimbo]

I thought I might fashion it into a tasteful sun visor

[Niko]

Fucken choice.

[duncanm]

Eventually I'll change out the fluid in the front and rear diff and I want to add an external AT oil cooler in place of the existing internal one on the radiator.

errmmm... be careful there. You might want an external cooler to keep temps low, but my understanding is you want to keep the AT fluid 'warm' which is the other function of the radiator connection, certainly in cool climates, anyway.

[Jimbo]

I've never actually thought of it that way. I guess my aim is just preventative maintenance as I want this thing to last and keep feeling fresh..

I would love also to solve this issue with the boosting. I have discovered it does the same thing at lower speeds, I just don't notice it as the chugging isn't there as it would be on freeway seeds.. Hit the go pedal and boosts okay, but all of a sudden it feels like a switch is flicked and it feels stronger. Happens around 2500 rpm on normal driving. It's smooth though.

How exactly does the fuel pump controller work? I think it may have been yourself or Rob that suggested it may be the culprit. Perhaps the pump might be on it's way out?

[duncanm]

Fuel is good line of thinking..

 

Controller sets pump voltage at 1/2, 2/3 and full 12V, I think. Looks like its a PWM control to me - note that SSM reports 'fuel pump duty = 33%' here

Presumably it has a conservative algorithm to work out what voltages to use. 1/3 at idle, 2/3 on the move and full when boosting, or something like that.

Hook up a multimeter to the pump plug at the tank and measure DC, then see what it does at idle, cruising and on boost. Should do something like 5 / 10 / 14V

 

When was the last time you changed your ink-tank filter?  Mine was full of shite.

[Jimbo]

Fuel is good line of thinking..

 

Controller sets pump voltage at 1/2, 2/3 and full 12V, I think. Looks like its a PWM control to me - note that SSM reports 'fuel pump duty = 33%' here

Presumably it has a conservative algorithm to work out what voltages to use. 1/3 at idle, 2/3 on the move and full when boosting, or something like that.

Hook up a multimeter to the pump plug at the tank and measure DC, then see what it does at idle, cruising and on boost. Should do something like 5 / 10 / 14V

 

When was the last time you changed your ink-tank filter?  Mine was full of shite.

I don't think it's ever been done. It wouldn't suprise me if it was the original OEM one.

I think you might be on to something with the fuel system. It might be getting a delayed signal somehow which makes it feel more like an "on/off" switch. So it's not running optimal mixture until it clicks over even though the conditions are already met. I'm assuming the Fuel Pump Controller takes info from the ECU and triggers the pump voltage depending on load. If it's not getting the correct signal instantly, I would be getting symptoms such as these.

[duncanm]

Change the filter - stat.

 

Get a new o-ring for the access plate, too. You might even consider a new pump - DW65c fits nicely in OEM basket,.

[Lukeoly]

Ditto on the 65c, 100% drop in FTW!
I deleted the in tank filter while I was there (removed the filter, replaced the o-ring and did it back up) and now run the WRX under bonnet filter. I just grabbed the filter bracket from a local wrecker and it bolts right up next to the washer bottle.

[Jimbo]

So while things have been a bit hectic lately, I've managed to do a couple of things in some free time.

My main focus is a few things at the moment. Firstly, I'm getting this weird stutter off boost which I have outlines in another thread, which is driving me insane. I'm going to have a crack at changing the spark plugs as it's one of the few things I recycled from the old engine. I'm not getting a CEL and it feels ignition related. I have also knocked a few things off the possible culprit list.

BOV is fine and not leaking, fuel filter was changed and I'm certain the fuel pump is fine. The only few things left are the fuel pump controller module and spark plugs. I am thinking along the lines of spark plugs now. When you're off boost and start feeding in throttle very slowly, I can feel resistance and hesitating until I put a bit more pressure on the pedal, it get's past 0 psi and it's fine again. Odd one.

Secondly, they damn key! I have a genuine older style 315mhz fob ready to be picked up from the post office. I took some bad advice from old mate Juan (who'm I thought knew it all!) and ended up buying a later model key, which didn't work with the car. So, I wasted about $150 there. Just payed $90 for the above mentioned remote so hoping it works. Payed more than I wanted to but I need something as it's driving me insane.

For some reason, I can't get the key to turn in the drivers side lock to open it. It only seems to work about 1 in 20 goes. So, to get in the car I have to unlock the passenger door (which works fine?) and then lean over and unlock the drivers door and go back around. I'm getting real tired of it, real quick!
As a last resort, I'll see if I can find a keyless entry module out of a wreck with a known working key. If by some chance a later model unit fits the plug, I'll swap it in which will allow me to use my expensive useless key.

Lastly that roof. The clearcoat fade is getting so bad, I'm embarrassed to be seen in it. I had a crack at using some cutting compound I had lying around which seemed to work a little bit, but after a few days it's back again.
I don't really know what to do with it. If I sell the car I would be lucky to get $5k for it with the roof in it's condition. I have no idea what it would cost to have it resprayed. If I got it resprayed I would probably keep the car alot longer.

Noticed the wing was getting sun faded a bit as well so I tried out this Maguires stuff. Worked a treat! Wing looks spankers. Tried a bit on the roof but the clear coat is too far gone or I need to upgrade to an electronic buffer! 

Left side is the sun damaged and clouded up side. I ran a bit of tape down the middle to show the difference. Right side is crystal clear!

[patrick27s]

Hmm tough one, I know in my friend's wrx his ignition barrel was hard to turn the key, sound similar, had to take it in and out a few times, and when you turned the car off it was a nightmare to get out. We ended up loading it up with graphite powder I believe and now it works perfectly, but It was a messy experience. I think there might be an easier way haha

[duncanm]

Don't forget you can do a roof only respray -- just down the A pillars and stop at the bonnet.

 

May not cost too much.

 

Not many purple's around -- there's a gen3 lib wagon I pass every day on the way to work in purple.. its got clear peel all over and looks sadface.

[Jimbo]

Don't forget you can do a roof only respray -- just down the A pillars and stop at the bonnet.

 

May not cost too much.

 

Not many purple's around -- there's a gen3 lib wagon I pass every day on the way to work in purple.. its got clear peel all over and looks sadface.

That's exactly what I want. I would be so happy with that. Even if it took like 2-3 weeks. Maybe I should try some places out. 

Wouldn't even know where to start without someone trying to rip me off. A reputable smash repairer or something a bit less mundane than that?

[Miguel]

Wait till hail is forecast then nose it undercover