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Simons Gen 3 1999 B4 from NZ


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#81 l2eeFer13

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Posted 08 October 2015 - 09:40 PM

Had another crack at it today. Everything went a lot smoother than i thought. Splitting the block from the tranny housing wasn't an issue with a putty knife

 

My mate made me a Costom clutch fork through bolt remover. Worked a treat and it slid out nice and easy

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I must admit i did have a pretty big smile on my face seeing the long block floating above the car. Never thought i would be able to do it but a big thanks to the internet for the confidence booster

 

Just need to go and find some 10x1.25 bolts long enough for my engine stand. Then i can start the dismantle process. Still sort of debating if i should just go and get a rebuilt EJ207 or some sort of CBD then i can just run the TD06 and get a G4 or something then a tune. 

 

Or just get every single gasket, cam belt, water pump, piston rings and seals for the EJ208 and learn more replacing them then after a year or so purchase a rebuilt CDB long block then just plop it in.

Thanks to a clubsub member i can use this list as a reference onedrive.live.com/view.aspx?resid=19E0DD5BA6F204D5!619&ithint=file%2cxlsx&app=Excel&authkey=!AO0QrQibnWRIGZ0



#82 l2eeFer13

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Posted 11 October 2015 - 06:29 PM

Long block dismantle began

 

First off came the rocker covers,

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I forgot to loosen the cam wheels when the timing belt was still on. Luckily enough their is a spot for a shifter on the cam. As they were tight as f*** i needed both hands so had to improvise.

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Then off came the heads

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All looking nice and worn

 

I have one issue though, when i was removing the cams i then rotated the long block to start on the other side forgetting about the buckets and shims then they all fell out. After doing some research on these, i read that they must go back in the same order as they came out. Is it much of a process measuring them and placing them back in the correct place??

 

Also the EJ208 had a bit of piston slap on cold start up. Will honing the bores fix this? Or do i need new piston rings OR pistons?

 

I am now back in Aus so everything is back on hold 



#83 Barbbachello

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Posted 11 October 2015 - 07:02 PM

Ooooooh bad luck about the buckets. Not sure on the specifics but youd need to bolt the cams back in with the buckets but no shims and use a feeler gauge to determine clearances and then pick from your pile of shims . Im hoping you have some way of remembering which cam caps go where as they have to go back the exactly the same as well


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#84 l2eeFer13

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Posted 11 October 2015 - 07:52 PM

Ooooooh bad luck about the buckets. Not sure on the specifics but youd need to bolt the cams back in with the buckets but no shims and use a feeler gauge to determine clearances and then pick from your pile of shims . Im hoping you have some way of remembering which cam caps go where as they have to go back the exactly the same as well

Yeah i sort of just seen them on the floor and was like aw they all look the same they can just pop back in haha. Then i thought i better do some research. Yeah all the caps went back on to the same spot the same way they came off so thats good to know. 



#85 l2eeFer13

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Posted 02 January 2016 - 06:55 PM

Update.

 

I ended up picking up a V7 STi EJ207 long block. So i will be rebuilding that and adding the AVCS. It has been sitting at my mates place for a while until a few days ago.

 

Finally got to see my EJ207 that will be going into my legacy and got it stripped down and heads off before we went away for the New Year. Also purchased the intake manifold from the same guy but he stripped it right down. If i knew he was going to do that i wouldnt have bought it from him. 
 
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I have sent out a bunch of emails to engine reconditioners requesting quotes. Should i be getting my rocker cover side of the heads decked also?
 
And what sort of signs am i looking for to see if the valves/pistons need ported or honed. The motor has done 150,000 kms.
 
I have a Genuine gasket kit and will be doing the crank bearings (ACL race bearings) should i be pulling the valves etc and checking over them?


#86 l2eeFer13

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Posted 03 January 2016 - 08:30 PM

Got a couple of quotes back today. Looking at about $320 for heads and block decked and everything including rocker covers and sump tanked. Will get pistons out tomorrow and get the cylinders de glazed. Check rings but prob replace them anyway



#87 l2eeFer13

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Posted 26 January 2016 - 07:17 PM

Back for a wedding so back into the build with my spare time
 
Gasket kit arrived
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Then partsouq order
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Dismantled the heads. One clean
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One not so clean
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I found a couple of bent valve stems so going to replace the lot along with the springs
 
Wrist pin access covers removed
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Then out came the pistons
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Splitting block with jack
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Block split and crank/rods removed
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Bolt stencil made. Stole this idea off youtube. Worked well
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Everything bagged and tagged
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Everything is now in the shop getting
 
Both heads resurfaced
Both block halves decked
Valve seats grinded
Piston bores de-glazed
Pistons cleaned
Crank cleaned and polished
Cams cleaned
Sump cleaned
Heads and blocked cleaned
 
 
With the valves getting ground and me not having the new valves yet. He is going to use 4 of the existing valves that are not bent for placement so when i get the new valves i can put them straight in. So this is going to put all my shims/buckets out.
 
How do i go about getting new shims? As the EJ207 has shims under bucket will i need to get new buckets with the shims made to order for the valve clearances?


#88 cowie165

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Posted 26 January 2016 - 08:49 PM

Oh man. Doesn't bagging parts feel like a major pain in the ass at the time but then when you come back to it a week or two later you're stoked cause you can't remember stuff all.

 

Bolt stencil is a very cool idea


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#89 l2eeFer13

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Posted 27 January 2016 - 07:22 AM

Oh man. Doesn't bagging parts feel like a major pain in the ass at the time but then when you come back to it a week or two later you're stoked cause you can't remember stuff all.

 

Bolt stencil is a very cool idea

Definitely.. Gone through so many bags too. Just need to keep the engine bags separate from the engine pull bags so im not hunting for days  :D



#90 andrew_k

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Posted 27 January 2016 - 09:51 PM

Dunno how I've missed this, great build man you're going all out before putting in the 207.

I'm putting a v7 207 in my '99 too, but totally slacking off compared to the rebuild you're doing.



#91 l2eeFer13

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Posted 28 January 2016 - 09:28 PM

Dunno how I've missed this, great build man you're going all out before putting in the 207.

I'm putting a v7 207 in my '99 too, but totally slacking off compared to the rebuild you're doing.

Thanks man appreciate it. Good choice on the 207. The only downside with this is im doing it all in NZ so i only get to work on it when i go back but i do generally go often.

 

I thought if im going to chuck another engine in it i might as well do it once and open her up and do what needs to be done. All the wiring and ECU stuff will be the headache. Have you already sourced a block?



#92 andrew_k

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Posted 28 January 2016 - 09:40 PM

Aye but on the upside, you're doing it in NZ, the land of the cheap JDM import (supposedly, anyway?). Hopefully that's making finding deals on part outs etc a little easier than over here. I totally hear you about the wiring headache. Doing a loom merge was a bit too grim for me so I'm doing a full wiring swap since my 207 came already installed in a repairable write-off wrx.

 

Will you bring it to AU eventually? Would you be allowed to?



#93 l2eeFer13

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Posted 28 January 2016 - 09:50 PM

Aye but on the upside, you're doing it in NZ, the land of the cheap JDM import (supposedly, anyway?). Hopefully that's making finding deals on part outs etc a little easier than over here. I totally hear you about the wiring headache. Doing a loom merge was a bit too grim for me so I'm doing a full wiring swap since my 207 came already installed in a repairable write-off wrx.

 

Will you bring it to AU eventually? Would you be allowed to?

Haha yeah your right about that. One thing i have noticed from the buy/sell pages from AU suby pages to the NZ pages is the price differences. SO yeah i suppose that is a bonus. Do you have a build thread here? So your going to transplant the WRX running gear into your 99, Liberty?

 

Yeah i originally was going to get the full V7 loom but then i was like aw i will just get a AVCS loom and re pin existing loom at ECU end into a Link G4 but with the AVCS loom costing $200+ i was just going to make one up BUT now im thinking about going back to the V7 complete loom idea and just re pin cluster and use a JDM V7 ECU that i originally got with the longblock... then down the road get the Link



#94 l2eeFer13

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Posted 28 January 2016 - 10:01 PM

Will you bring it to AU eventually? Would you be allowed to?

Not sure if it would be allowed or not. Would probably just leave it NZ for snowboarding trips etc



#95 allpaw4

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Posted 29 January 2016 - 05:51 AM

Only has to be in your name and registered for 12 months over there to be eligible for personal import. Do some reading, apparently it's not that hard. Probably be fairly expensive to actually transport it, but it's your baby that you've done so much work too, it makes it worth it in the end.

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#96 Beckers

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Posted 30 January 2016 - 09:37 PM

The guy doing your head should set up the shims, as after a valve grind all the clearances will have changed. In Aus the shim set up is about $350.00 from memory.

Lovin this build by the way.



#97 l2eeFer13

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Posted 01 February 2016 - 08:53 PM



Only has to be in your name and registered for 12 months over there to be eligible for personal import. Do some reading, apparently it's not that hard. Probably be fairly expensive to actually transport it, but it's your baby that you've done so much work too, it makes it worth it in the end.

Doesnt sound to hard. Maybe when shes freshly painted she can come over and the STi is done so i still have something to drive up the ski fields

 



The guy doing your head should set up the shims, as after a valve grind all the clearances will have changed. In Aus the shim set up is about $350.00 from memory.

Lovin this build by the way.

Yeah he did say i would have to redo the valve clearances. I will install my new valves then get him to do the clearances. Would i be able to re use any of my old shims? How do they do it when the shims are under the buckets?

 

Do i have to order them to suit?

 

IMG_6671_zpskazix0gq.jpg



#98 l2eeFer13

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Posted 01 February 2016 - 08:55 PM

Got most of the parts back today. Having problems with the honing machine but should be ready for pick up tomorrow

 

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#99 motoboy76

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Posted 01 February 2016 - 09:00 PM

Looking good


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#100 duncanm

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Posted 01 February 2016 - 10:07 PM

 How do they do it when the shims are under the buckets?

 

  1. put valvetrain together with no shims
  2. measure clearances and calculate shim sizes required
  3. disassemble
  4. reassemble with shims





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