General Thread - Closed! Please use newer GT
#10861
Posted 03 December 2009 - 08:48 AM
#10862
Posted 03 December 2009 - 08:48 AM
#10863
Posted 03 December 2009 - 08:53 AM
I don't care how harsh the ride is, I wan't height "changeability"
Now what are we abbreviating there with that apostrophe?
#10864
Posted 03 December 2009 - 08:57 AM
This battery is the replacement, last one shat itself (dropped cell) after bout 5mths but it never lasted either.
BTW they're "Super Charge" batteries - reccomended by the dude at autobarn, anyone have any opinions on these?
Buzz,
Don't go disconnecting/ reconnecting the battery all the time. This may cause a voltage spike (sudden rise in voltage) as the system looses electical energy (same as an ignition coil works) and the rise in voltage may harm the ECU or other electronic components.
First thing I would do is check the alrternator voltage output. Grab a multimeter with a good battery in it (low multimeter batteries may cause errors in the reading) and check the battery voltage with the engine running at idle and again at around 2000rpm. You should get a reading of around 13.8-14.2 volts. Any lower will mean the battery is not being charged properly and each time you drive the car the battery gets a little flatter.
The next thing I would check is current draw with everything turned off, as the car would be if parked. Set the miltimeter to DC amps in the 20A scale (remember to swap the red lead), disconnect the battery negative lead and connect the multimeter leads between the negative battery post and the negative battery lead (series connection). Remember to have everything in the car off, including the door closed and the interior light timed out. You shoul not get more than
If you dont drive far/often and want to get a 'trickel' charger, Projecta make a great little one (looks like a phone charger) that is 900mA and has a floating charge of around 13v. It can remain on forever and wont overcharge the battery.
EDIT 8/12/09
Draw should be 0.015-0.020Amps.
If I told you I was a compulsive liar, would you believe me?
#10865
Posted 03 December 2009 - 09:03 AM
Now what are we abbreviating there with that apostrophe?

Tha't wa's a rathe'r ba'd us'e o'f a'n apostroph'e wasnt i't?
#10866
Posted 03 December 2009 - 09:05 AM
and you didnt use it in the word that actually has one!!
Tha't wa's a rathe'r ba'd us'e o'f a'n apostroph'e wasnt i't?
Ha'il M'or'ga'n
#10867
Posted 03 December 2009 - 09:08 AM
#10868
Posted 03 December 2009 - 09:09 AM
#10869
Posted 03 December 2009 - 09:41 AM
thanks Walts.
I've biddeded'eded'ed on it.
It says its for a wagon.
There the same in Gen 3? I believe "SUBARU" has wagon springs/struts
#10870
Posted 03 December 2009 - 09:54 AM
There the same in Gen 3? I believe "SUBARU" has wagon springs/struts
I has teh wagz springz and sedza shocks
#10871
Posted 03 December 2009 - 10:00 AM
#10872
Posted 03 December 2009 - 10:07 AM
Buzz,
Don't go disconnecting/ reconnecting the battery all the time. This may cause a voltage spike (sudden rise in voltage) as the system looses electical energy (same as an ignition coil works) and the rise in voltage may harm the ECU or other electronic components.
First thing I would do is check the alrternator voltage output. Grab a multimeter with a good battery in it (low multimeter batteries may cause errors in the reading) and check the battery voltage with the engine running at idle and again at around 2000rpm. You should get a reading of around 13.8-14.2 volts. Any lower will mean the battery is not being charged properly and each time you drive the car the battery gets a little flatter.
The next thing I would check is current draw with everything turned off, as the car would be if parked. Set the miltimeter to DC amps in the 20A scale (remember to swap the red lead), disconnect the battery negative lead and connect the multimeter leads between the negative battery post and the negative battery lead (series connection). Remember to have everything in the car off, including the door closed and the interior light timed out. You shoul not get more than 0.15-0.20 amps. If the standing current draw is too high it will flatten the battery as the car sits. Higher the draw, faster the battery goes flat.
If you dont drive far/often and want to get a 'trickel' charger, Projecta make a great little one (looks like a phone charger) that is 900mA and has a floating charge of around 13v. It can remain on forever and wont overcharge the battery.
Cheers Jase, unseeable tech rep point awarded
Took batt back to autobarns and was told (by their auto electrian staff member) it just needed charging (even tho the little window thing on the battery had a black dot in it, which goin off the label means "get battery checked"), pointed that out and told them I'd tried charging it, was told that it must be the alt. they checked the alt current (13.9-14.2) and boot light etc.... then said they'd charge the battery for me and to come back this arv and they'd check it again when everything was off.
#10873
Posted 03 December 2009 - 10:18 AM
#10874
Posted 03 December 2009 - 10:19 AM
Hhahahahahahaha @ the grammar skills. Don't hate on people correcting shit, I would like to think that forum use has improved everyone's grammar and spelling.
Skills for life home boy.
I agree Nikky, The office emails also improve my grama
Before i didn't know the difference between Your and You're
#10875
Posted 03 December 2009 - 10:19 AM
There the same in Gen 3? I believe "SUBARU" has wagon springs/struts
Correctomondo....
#10876
Posted 03 December 2009 - 10:20 AM
isn't that like yo?I agree Nikky, The office emails also improve my grama
Before i didn't know the difference between Your and You're
#10877
Posted 03 December 2009 - 10:21 AM
isn't that like yo?
#10879
Posted 03 December 2009 - 10:25 AM
Cheers Jase, unseeable tech rep point awarded
.
Took batt back to autobarns and was told (by their auto electrian staff member) it just needed charging (even tho the little window thing on the battery had a black dot in it, which goin off the label means "get battery checked"), pointed that out and told them I'd tried charging it, was told that it must be the alt. they checked the alt current (13.9-14.2) and boot light etc.... then said they'd charge the battery for me and to come back this arv and they'd check it again when everything was off.
Ooohhh.. Just saw this one.
I agree with Alex. Tell them to go and jam it right up their arses. Fucking Autobarn fuckers. Bunch of retail wankers who pretend to know about cars. I hate it how they come up to you and say "You right mate? You need my assistance with anything?" No, I don't now fuck off. At least at Supercheap they leave you alone to browse their wares.
It's simple you fools - faulty product claim from a customer... "Replace or refund sir?"
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