
#1861
Posted 30 June 2015 - 05:26 PM
He hasn't even driven it yet lel. Except home from purchasing it. Parked it up and has continued to drive the ISF around until it sells.
Speaking of which, Shaz, you should buy it. Bit nicer than an R31! ...and faster.
#1862
Posted 30 June 2015 - 06:54 PM
#1863
Posted 30 June 2015 - 07:06 PM
Vegetable.
Wanting to buy/looking for: single genuine STi rim, genuine STi front lip, Corazon or Zero/Sports grille and another OEM grille
Can you hook a brother up? Please contact me now. I have cash ready.
~
~
#1864
Posted 30 June 2015 - 07:22 PM
Gaz,
As far as your battery goes, a multimeter across the terminals should show 13.8 to about 14.5 volts with the headlamps on and the engine at about 2000rpm.
A voltage drop test between the positive battery post (not the terminal) and the B+ (charge wire) terminal at the back of the alternator should show a max of 0.5v (the loss between the two points) with the electrical system under as much load as possible. To do this flatten the battery as much as you can (slow to crank) and turn on every thing electrical you possible can, hi beams, fogs, demister, A/C on max. You are trying to get the alternator to work as hard as possible for the voltage drop test.
As far as the springs go, don't use a coat hanger (sorry Shaz) to hold the spring in a compressed state. Spring have enough stored energy to cause serious harm. I have replaced more springs/struts than most people have had hot dinners and I have a very healthy respect for the damage they can cause, I've even seen people sent to hospital when springs have let go.
Go buy a set of cheap compressors or borrow some, far better option.
You may find even the STi springs will need to be compressed slightly to get the strut tops back on as I have not seen a factory spring yet that is not loaded at full extension, hence the compressors. It is very difficult to compress the spring without them when the spring is separated form the strut.
If you are not 100% confident, offer beer and I'm sure a member will offer to assist you while you have a crack.
FYI, I treat the youtube tutorials with a grain of salt. Most I find are backyard muppets who think they are God's gift to mechanics (maybe that's a bit harsh?). One bloke I trust 100% is Eric the Car Guy. Check out his youtube channel, Im sure he has a tutorial on how to replace McPherson struts (technically Subarus use a Chapman strut as the hub is separate to the leg) and I have used his videos to assist my students on the odd occasion.
If you have any questions, PM me and I'll shoot you my number so you can call me. I can't be arsed typing the whole procedure, nor do I wish to clutter the GT with anything technical.
I'm still part of Ozlib, not much happening there though.
Haha, that was a while ago.
If I told you I was a compulsive liar, would you believe me?
#1865
Posted 30 June 2015 - 07:55 PM
Was looking at a R31s or Cressida for a project car, but there so exxy.. same with a Panda style 180sx
All are like 15k.. u wot m9
I've mentioned this in previous GT's, not sure if you've seen it before Shaz, I'v got this I want to get rid off if you're interested:
Toymods is a cool club still. Heaps of older guys, with like 50/60/70/80 Toyotas and a HEAP of knowledge. Good guys to hang around with and learn things.
+1
I've met a few off the forums and are all super nice and have been around each other a long time!
#1866
Posted 30 June 2015 - 08:09 PM

#1867
Posted 30 June 2015 - 08:17 PM
Hey Adam,
Get forked.
If I told you I was a compulsive liar, would you believe me?
#1868
Posted 30 June 2015 - 08:19 PM
#1869
Posted 30 June 2015 - 08:28 PM
Finally you have seen the light.
If I told you I was a compulsive liar, would you believe me?
#1870
Posted 30 June 2015 - 08:32 PM

#1871
Posted 30 June 2015 - 08:41 PM
Barina is a Holden...
edit: Now that I think about it, you may be too young to remember that advertisement.
If I told you I was a compulsive liar, would you believe me?
#1872
Posted 30 June 2015 - 08:44 PM

New car is actually Rach's. But I'm just as excited
#1873
Posted 30 June 2015 - 08:52 PM
So it's a Ford Barina?
Or is it a Mitsi?
Actually, can't be a Mitsi as you still have one, yes?
If I told you I was a compulsive liar, would you believe me?
#1874
Posted 30 June 2015 - 10:17 PM
#1875
Posted 30 June 2015 - 10:59 PM
Placed another order with PartSouq.com
I love using them, they can can parts that the other suppliers can't and I will get the bits in about a week.
Happy days.
Nope I know the beep beep
Newcartruck is actually Rach's. But I'm just as excited
Nice one.
Will she let you drive it?
If I told you I was a compulsive liar, would you believe me?
#1876
Posted 01 July 2015 - 12:15 AM
Gaz,
As far as your battery goes, a multimeter across the terminals should show 13.8 to about 14.5 volts with the headlamps on and the engine at about 2000rpm.
A voltage drop test between the positive battery post (not the terminal) and the B+ (charge wire) terminal at the back of the alternator should show a max of 0.5v (the loss between the two points) with the electrical system under as much load as possible. To do this flatten the battery as much as you can (slow to crank) and turn on every thing electrical you possible can, hi beams, fogs, demister, A/C on max. You are trying to get the alternator to work as hard as possible for the voltage drop test.
As far as the springs go, don't use a coat hanger (sorry Shaz) to hold the spring in a compressed state. Spring have enough stored energy to cause serious harm. I have replaced more springs/struts than most people have had hot dinners and I have a very healthy respect for the damage they can cause, I've even seen people sent to hospital when springs have let go.
Go buy a set of cheap compressors or borrow some, far better option.
You may find even the STi springs will need to be compressed slightly to get the strut tops back on as I have not seen a factory spring yet that is not loaded at full extension, hence the compressors. It is very difficult to compress the spring without them when the spring is separated form the strut.
If you are not 100% confident, offer beer and I'm sure a member will offer to assist you while you have a crack.
FYI, I treat the youtube tutorials with a grain of salt. Most I find are backyard muppets who think they are God's gift to mechanics (maybe that's a bit harsh?). One bloke I trust 100% is Eric the Car Guy. Check out his youtube channel, Im sure he has a tutorial on how to replace McPherson struts (technically Subarus use a Chapman strut as the hub is separate to the leg) and I have used his videos to assist my students on the odd occasion.
If you have any questions, PM me and I'll shoot you my number so you can call me. I can't be arsed typing the whole procedure, nor do I wish to clutter the GT with anything technical.
Sweet as Jase! That's well informative and I'll take your advice 100%. You are saying I need spring compressors even when replacing the entire unit (spring and strut together without removing the springs from the strut)? I am not removing springs from the struts, I am merely removing my current lowered spring and strut unit and replacing it with a new STi spring and strut unit.
Wanting to buy/looking for: single genuine STi rim, genuine STi front lip, Corazon or Zero/Sports grille and another OEM grille
Can you hook a brother up? Please contact me now. I have cash ready.
~
~
#1877
Posted 01 July 2015 - 12:58 AM
If you are removing the spring and strut as an entire assembly, you do not use spring compressors. Spring compressors are only needed when disassembling the strut to replace the springs only.
As mentioned before, replacing the entire strut assembly is a simple job.
For the purpose of obscurity, I have added some diagrams.
If I told you I was a compulsive liar, would you believe me?
#1878
Posted 01 July 2015 - 07:37 AM
#1879
Posted 01 July 2015 - 08:27 AM
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