yeah I just did some research apparently that pretty normal. After I reconnected everything I noticed that I could hear my turbos a lot more, like the spool was a lot more noisy but now I think I have a boost leak as there's no pull when I hear the turbos spool. I'll investigate later haha.The cap hoes in that hole correct. Its the flywheel inspection hole/Where you jam a screw driver to lock the engine to crack the crank bolt or undo the torque converter. It just sits in there.
As for the boogered up silicone id say its the PCV joiner. Pretty common for them to be fubar as they get hot and crack and so on

Pat's 2000 Legacy GTB
#101
Posted 23 October 2016 - 04:09 PM
#102
Posted 24 October 2016 - 07:38 PM
The IC is a bitch to get on and on properly. Takes a bit of practice!
Usually either the secondary turbo bend hasn't slid onto the secondary compressor outlet fully, OR the back of the primary hose has crushed into the primary compressor outlet.
Best tip I can give is, loosen off all the hose clamps just enough to get some movement where the hoses join onto the IC elbows.
Face the clamps so you can get a 7/8mm socket on the clamp bolts and tighten them up when it's all in place.
The oil your seeing is likely just whats being slowly pushed out the IC/throttle body joiner.
The broken intake tract rear PCV breather is common when the manifold has been taken off before. By leaving it off, you've probably left a nice open hole in the back of the intake tract which is sucking in un-metered air. Fix that up ASAP. You might just have to clean up all the silicone and have another crack at it.
If all has been lost, you might have to merge that hose (with an appropriate sized T-Piece) in with the crank case breather lines which go to another port on the intake tract. You will have to then cover up the hole from the broken fitting at the back of the tract.
'04 Liberty GT Premium "The Sprog Chariot"
#103
Posted 24 October 2016 - 07:47 PM
had a quick look, noticed the passenger side (primary?) is on majority of the way, but feels like the plastic flips inside the turbo outlet around the back, I'll pull it off tomorrow and have another crack.The IC is a bitch to get on and on properly. Takes a bit of practice!
Usually either the secondary turbo bend hasn't slid onto the secondary compressor outlet fully, OR the back of the primary hose has crushed into the primary compressor outlet.
Best tip I can give is, loosen off all the hose clamps just enough to get some movement where the hoses join onto the IC elbows.
Face the clamps so you can get a 7/8mm socket on the clamp bolts and tighten them up when it's all in place.
The oil your seeing is likely just whats being slowly pushed out the IC/throttle body joiner.
The broken intake tract rear PCV breather is common when the manifold has been taken off before. By leaving it off, you've probably left a nice open hole in the back of the intake tract which is sucking in un-metered air. Fix that up ASAP. You might just have to clean up all the silicone and have another crack at it.
If all has been lost, you might have to merge that hose (with an appropriate sized T-Piece) in with the crank case breather lines which go to another port on the intake tract. You will have to then cover up the hole from the broken fitting at the back of the tract.
Yeah, I was thinking about ordering some new plastic fittings. I'll do some research tonight to see what I'm up against.
Thanks Jim!

#104
Posted 24 October 2016 - 08:18 PM
The IC is a bitch to get on and on properly. Takes a bit of practice!
Usually either the secondary turbo bend hasn't slid onto the secondary compressor outlet fully, OR the back of the primary hose has crushed into the primary compressor outlet.
Best tip I can give is, loosen off all the hose clamps just enough to get some movement where the hoses join onto the IC elbows.
best tip I can give is to get some silicone intercooler hoses. Popping the IC on and off is pretty straightforward then.
#105
Posted 24 October 2016 - 09:08 PM
best tip I can give is to get some silicone intercooler hoses. Popping the IC on and off is pretty straightforward then.
Had silicone hoses on my BG. Best thing ever, makes it 11ty x easier. Still haven't got around to it yet on the BH ..... list is getting longer and longer..
had a quick look, noticed the passenger side (primary?) is on majority of the way, but feels like the plastic flips inside the turbo outlet around the back, I'll pull it off tomorrow and have another crack.
Yeah, I was thinking about ordering some new plastic fittings. I'll do some research tonight to see what I'm up against.
Thanks Jim!
Mate, if you get stuck, I have a spare intake tract. It's broken in the same place aswell but being off the car might make it waaaaay easier to repair. Then it can just be a case of swapping manifolds straight across.
'04 Liberty GT Premium "The Sprog Chariot"
#106
Posted 24 October 2016 - 10:47 PM
As for the pcv stuff, replace it with new bits. Its all relatively cheap save for the complete under Mani intake pipe.
#107
Posted 25 October 2016 - 04:04 AM
OEM+
#108
Posted 25 October 2016 - 07:11 AM
I'll try find some new parts today, but if I can't find anything I might hit you up for it haha.Had silicone hoses on my BG. Best thing ever, makes it 11ty x easier. Still haven't got around to it yet on the BH ..... list is getting longer and longer..
Mate, if you get stuck, I have a spare intake tract. It's broken in the same place aswell but being off the car might make it waaaaay easier to repair. Then it can just be a case of swapping manifolds straight across.
#109
Posted 25 October 2016 - 10:35 AM
best tip I can give is to get some silicone intercooler hoses. Popping the IC on and off is pretty straightforward then.
I just ordered some samco sports ones as they looked the best and they're black.
#110
Posted 25 October 2016 - 10:40 AM
I shove the ic onto the secondary first, angle it into the tb. With it mounted to those and with the primary hose attached to the turbo instead of the ic just a quick push down and a wiggle and it goes straight on. Dont know what all the fuss is about tbh its not hard.
As for the pcv stuff, replace it with new bits. Its all relatively cheap save for the complete under Mani intake pipe.
Basically what I tried to do, however my factory pipes were all distorted I tried to fix them up but they just pushed back in when I tried to re-install the intercooler. I think silicon might be the way to go, by the sounds of things.
Same, I always try to replace parts with factory ones, but I think the silicon ones could be a good upgrade for the intercooler connecting pipes. I'll try them, worst case I'll buy genuine.I second replacing broken fittings with new, genuìne items. Peace of mind and not expensive.


So I found these pipes, just ordered them of an Australian site in black, hopefully they'll come soon and I'll see how they go.
#111
Posted 25 October 2016 - 10:54 AM

OEM+
#112
Posted 25 October 2016 - 10:55 AM
Agreed silicon IC pipes are better. Referring to fittings like the PCV T piece etc...
Well if mark approves, I must have made a good decision

I'm about to look up some part diagrams, it was so dark and hard to make out where all the pipes went haha

#113
Posted 26 October 2016 - 12:19 AM
Basically what I tried to do, however my factory pipes were all distorted I tried to fix them up but they just pushed back in when I tried to re-install the intercooler. I think silicon might be the way to go, by the sounds of things.
Same, I always try to replace parts with factory ones, but I think the silicon ones could be a good upgrade for the intercooler connecting pipes. I'll try them, worst case I'll buy genuine.![]()
So I found these pipes, just ordered them of an Australian site in black, hopefully they'll come soon and I'll see how they go.
Omg I so want them....
I'm wondering if by changing to them It would solve my boost leak since I can't find it on the surface. Perhaps it's those hoses underneath that got crack form the intense heat of the turbos!!!
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#114
Posted 26 October 2016 - 04:30 AM
Basically what I tried to do, however my factory pipes were all distorted I tried to fix them up but they just pushed back in when I tried to re-install the intercooler. I think silicon might be the way to go, by the sounds of things.
Same, I always try to replace parts with factory ones, but I think the silicon ones could be a good upgrade for the intercooler connecting pipes. I'll try them, worst case I'll buy genuine.
So I found these pipes, just ordered them of an Australian site in black, hopefully they'll come soon and I'll see how they go.
soooo i found the website and the product but im ot sure what type i have meaning the bh5 applied (letter from A-D), how do i know which letter is mines?
#115
Posted 26 October 2016 - 05:17 AM
It's your year model 1999-A 2000-B 2001 - c 2002 - D 2003 - e.soooo i found the website and the product but im ot sure what type i have meaning the bh5 applied (letter from A-D), how do i know which letter is mines?
There also a way of checking on your vin I think.
I got mine from samcosport.com.au
#116
Posted 26 October 2016 - 05:20 AM
Omg I so want them....
I'm wondering if by changing to them It would solve my boost leak since I can't find it on the surface. Perhaps it's those hoses underneath that got crack form the intense heat of the turbos!!!
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Why don't you take the intercooler off and inspect the pipes.
#117
Posted 26 October 2016 - 05:47 AM
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#118
Posted 26 October 2016 - 05:56 AM
It's your year model 1999-A 2000-B 2001 - c 2002 - D 2003 - e.
There also a way of checking on your vin I think.
I got mine from samcosport.com.au
Did the research and the found the letter after the bh5 on the chassis. Mines is bh5D. Yeah. But checking the pipping and the cost to shipping to me a quite a bit. Will attempt another method of boost leak test I found online with a smoke machine. Thanks
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#119
Posted 26 October 2016 - 06:22 AM
The last time my ex-mechanic take of the ic, it give him a challenge to put back on. So I'm a bit skeptical on removing myself. Not to mention the piping to the throttle body from the ic torn so if I have to remove it I know j have to buy a new one and I don't know what size piping that is.
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http://www.subyclub....-13#entry607431
TMIC to manifold is the same as all other EJ turbos.
#120
Posted 26 October 2016 - 06:41 AM
Did the research and the found the letter after the bh5 on the chassis. Mines is bh5D. Yeah. But checking the pipping and the cost to shipping to me a quite a bit. Will attempt another method of boost leak test I found online with a smoke machine. Thanks
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When I read online at the samco sports Japanese site it mentions that this specific kit 'TCS161' was for revision a-c only.
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