Suby Club

Cant help u out with the springs... Maybe put them next 2 each other n see if the lengths a different... I think the left side the car is suppose 2 sit lower than the right when no1 is in the car due to the fact there is always some1 in the drivers seat.

Mine is an early MY01

I do this regardless. Always fit taller spring to drivers side if part numbers are the same.

Troofs.

Learn something new every day!

Hmm, just went and wiped off those three drops (still hanging there), it really feels like grease but more sticky.... more like a gel if anything.
From the first pic above, there isn't anything above that bush, and you can see where it's sprayed back against the undercarriage.
From the 2nd pic there doesn't appear to be anything in front that is wet......
Has me stumped!!

I've got no idea mate, sorry !

Now for something different.....

Noticed small pools of 'something' under the left hand side of the car on the weekend. Almost 1 & 1/2 feet in from the LH Front wheel and about 1 & 1/2 feet back from the center of the wheel itself.

When looking under it I can see small drops of 'something' under this one particular part (suspension related?), and when I touch it; it appears clear with a tacky consistency...

The part in question is this;






Anyone tell me what this thing is? What does it do? Why is it leaking? What is the best thing to fix it with? Replacement/Aftermarket upgrade??
Thanks for any info...

Check to see if you have split bush... Check all the way around it, I had a similar thing about a yr ago had the split on the top where u could just see it if u looked properly... If u do u can get them replaced with SuperPro or Whiteline bushes

Note the last point on the right hand side, must be a hydraulic bush Bugger.

Here's the exploded front end pic



For some reason i cant copy the pics out of the pdf hence the print screens

Check to see if you have split bush... Check all the way around it, I had a similar thing about a yr ago had the split on the top where u could just see it if u looked properly... If u do u can get them replaced with SuperPro or Whiteline bushes

Ok thanks, I'll try and have a good look tomorrow. When you say split - can I just feel all the way around it to find a crack??
Do you know what they are called? specifically????
"What" bush??

Note the last point on the right hand side, must be a hydraulic bush Bugger.

Hmm, from that exploded view is it just called "Rear Bushing"??? That's it???

Yep that's what the manual calls it. It calls the lower arm a "transverse link" but i would just call it um.. the "lower arm", but i guess the subaru manual should have the correct term so i'll concede that point So it is the "rear bush" on the "transverse link".

Merlin, Sounds to me like you have a split 'hydraulic' bush. Some cars have rubber bushes (most commonly lower control arm, which is basically this bush) filled with a heavy silicon oil. These bushes are better at absorbing road vibrations (so they are not transferred into the chassis) that a 'solid' rubber bush. Engine mounts can also be of this type for the same reason. As suggested, you could replace this bush with a solid type and I doubt you would notice much difference.

Merlin,
As suggested, you could replace this bush with a solid type and I doubt you would notice much difference.

Thanks Jas,
I'm querying Whiteline and SuperPro agents to see what they offer....
Do you think these aftermarket versions would just be the solid type? Or would it be possible to get an aftermarket one with the original spec?
"Just curious"....

If they are yellow or blue or some other colour then they would most likely be solid. May even 'sharpen' the steering a little.

... If u do u can get them replaced with SuperPro or Whiteline bushes

If they are yellow or blue or some other colour then they would most likely be solid.
May even 'sharpen' the steering a little.

Ok, update on what I've found out so far;

Firstly from Subaru;
The part is $191.45 including GST, and I have one in stock today.

A couple of things to be aware of with the after-market options;

More transferred road noise – the genuine items are oil filled to reduce cabin noise, having a solid urethane or nolethane bush will increase things like tyre-slap and general road noise to the cabin.

Warranty – genuine Subaru parts have a 12-month, 20,000km warranty.

Replacement – if you do decide to go for the after-market option, be sure to replace both bushes, as this could introduce inconsistencies in the suspension operation, especially under braking/turning.

I hope this helps....

From a SuperPro agent;
Alot of vehicles use a fluid filled bush to absorb NVB. once it starts to leak it will need replacing as it will only get worse.

Trailing Arm Lower Front Bushing $72.72 inc GST

From the Whiteline online store;
The WHITELINE part is available as the antilift kit KCA319A
Attached is a photo of the WHITELINE PLUS replacement standard bush to suit your vehicle. this does not have the same advantages as the anti lift kit.

Whiteline Plus (W51710)


When I asked for a price on this item I was told the Whiteline Online store does not sell Whiteline Plus products to the public and I'll have to call an agent.

Then I asked about the difference between the above mentioned KCA319A and the similar COMFORT product called KCA361.

The reply said:
Kca361 was developed for the U.S. market which wanted a much softer bush .I would recommend the KCA319a for a street car as it's more directional without much difference in harshness.

I know Buzz got the COMFORT ALK - notice any increase in noise Buzz??

Original Subaru sounds too dear, SuperPro sounds reasonable @ $145 for two, WhiteLine PLUS $Unknown for STD. Bush, and WhiteLine ALK for around $260 (left and right).....

Suggestions???

Try ebay Darren: http://shop.ebay.com...ubaru&_osacat=0

If your after whiteline gear PM dantheman on ozliberty.com Hes got a mate that works for Whiteline. I managed to get a rear swaybar $190 delivered.

Firstly from Subaru; The part is $191.45 including GST,

Fark that!


I would go the comfort option if you're worried about vibration/ harshness.

I know Buzz got the COMFORT ALK - notice any increase in noise Buzz??

Can't say I did.... I don't remember any change in noise/harshness from the std ones....

If your after whiteline gear PM dantheman on ozliberty.com

Thanks for the tip.

Whiteline Plus (W51710)

When I asked for a price on this item I was told the Whiteline Online store does not sell Whiteline Plus products to the public and I'll have to call an agent.

Appears all my webspace went south and pictures are dead...

Got a price from a Whiteline PLUS agent; $94/Bush.

Then I asked them how much they'd charge to fit an ALK and they said;
"Probably need 3-4 hours @ $85/hr plus $55 for wheel alignment"

That's $55 per axle, not that they suggested doing two axles, but $55/axle all the same.....
Min. cost (3x$85) $255 Labour + $55 W/A = $310. Not including the price of the ALK....
CRIKEY!!!!!!

Appears all my webspace went south and pictures are dead...

Got a price from a Whiteline PLUS agent; $94/Bush.

Then I asked them how much they'd charge to fit an ALK and they said;
"Probably need 3-4 hours @ $85/hr plus $55 for wheel alignment"

That's $55 per axle, not that they suggested doing two axles, but $55/axle all the same.....
Min. cost (3x$85) $255 Labour + $55 W/A = $310. Not including the price of the ALK....
CRIKEY!!!!!!

Tell em to pull their fuckin finger out... got my mech to put 'em in for me, tie rod ends/ball joints/ALK took 'em 1 1/2 hrs.

I go to Beaurepaires for W/A's, cost $55 for all 4 wheels and will adjust it for free if not happy.... speakin of which I'm prob due for another one!

How often would you suggest in-between W/A Buzz? Change topic; You may or may not remember me posting about my incontinent RHS washer nozzle.... I was in touch with Subaru and was told it happens due to a failed check valve in the hose leading to that nozzle. I bought a replacement valve for under $5 but now can't find the damn thing on my car to replace it.... This thing is about 3cm long and the fluid tube connects to both ends of it. I ended up removing the plugs which keep the foam lining on the underside of the bonnet and still couldn't locate this little 3cm piece of plastic in the concealed tube which leads to the RHS nozzle......... Anyone seen this little valve? Anyone know where it's supposed live?

How often would you suggest in-between W/A Buzz?

Change topic;

You may or may not remember me posting about my incontinent RHS washer nozzle.... I was in touch with Subaru and was told it happens due to a failed check valve in the hose leading to that nozzle. I bought a replacement valve for under $5 but now can't find the damn thing on my car to replace it.... This thing is about 3cm long and the fluid tube connects to both ends of it. I ended up removing the plugs which keep the foam lining on the underside of the bonnet and still couldn't locate this little 3cm piece of plastic in the concealed tube which leads to the RHS nozzle.........
Anyone seen this little valve? Anyone know where it's supposed live?

Ive attached a spare part guide I found. Its not 100% clear but it mite help.

Ive attached a spare part guide I found. Its not 100% clear but it mite help.

That looks like the Workshop manual - nothing listed as a "check valve"..... and here's why -

Subaru got back to me:
"One way or check valves are not standard fitment so you won’t find one on your car, all you need to do is cut the hose that supplies water to the bonnet and fit the check valve."

I know this is exactly what Jas has already suggested.... BUT, if I fit it before the Y-Connector, then it will leave 1M+ of hose that will still have fluid in it when the motor stops pumping - This fluid will still be able to come out the nozzle will it not??
I'd rather put the valve as close to the elbow joint under the RHS nozzle as possible so that it limits the fluid accumulation in the hose leading to the nozzle...... does that make sense????

I know this is exactly what Jas has already suggested.... BUT, if I fit it before the Y-Connector, then it will leave 1M+ of hose that will still have fluid in it when the motor stops pumping - This fluid will still be able to come out the nozzle will it not??
I'd rather put the valve as close to the elbow joint under the RHS nozzle as possible so that it limits the fluid accumulation in the hose leading to the nozzle...... does that make sense????

The valve may create a vacuum effect and stop water coming out...