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Brand 2nd-hand 1999 Liberty


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#221 Merlin01

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Posted 24 November 2009 - 07:43 PM

Just checked my invoice the rears are as you stated. Fronts im unsure of the part number coz i bought them at a later time but are the "turbo" model.
Im running lowered king springs front n rear. Ive got the KSFL-22(93-07 Impreza)(yes they fit perfectly) in the front and KSRL-27(Gen3 n Gen 4 only) in the rear.

Ahh, ok... The Rears I'm looking at are KSFL-28...
What size are your wheels?? Still see a small gap between the top of the tyre and wheel arch.... I tried to measure that distance on mine and came up with about 40mm...which makes me think a 37.5mm drop may be too much...

#222 Merlin01

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Posted 24 November 2009 - 08:00 PM

P.S. I caved - Bought the Boge! :)

#223 SAV84C

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Posted 02 December 2009 - 09:36 AM

Ahh, ok... The Rears I'm looking at are KSFL-28...
What size are your wheels?? Still see a small gap between the top of the tyre and wheel arch.... I tried to measure that distance on mine and came up with about 40mm...which makes me think a 37.5mm drop may be too much...


The KSFL-28 are for fronts and will still leave a big gap between the wheel n arch. My car was measured up by Wholesale Suspension before they ordered the KSFL-22 springs.

I just realise that the pic of the rear was a pic before i lowered the rear. Wheel are 18s. The gap now is about 10-20mm

#224 Merlin01

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Posted 02 December 2009 - 03:30 PM

The KSFL-28 are for fronts and will still leave a big gap between the wheel n arch. My car was measured up by Wholesale Suspension before they ordered the KSFL-22 springs.

I just realise that the pic of the rear was a pic before i lowered the rear. Wheel are 18s. The gap now is about 10-20mm

Ooops, sorry!
Fronts: KSFL-28
Rears: KSRL-27

So your saying the 22's are lower then the 28's? Even though both are the standard LOW spring, just for different models?

My wheels are stock 16", and even now on the front there is about 5mm difference between left and right side clearances (new tyres too). However after measuring properly I expect a 35mm drop will still leave me with about a 20mm gap. Not cutting it fine that's for sure.
Mind you, I'm assuming the standard front strut and the Boge replacement are going to be the same hight as well??? Really hope the Boge isn't longer.... :scratch_one-s_head:

#225 SAV84C

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Posted 04 December 2009 - 11:06 AM

Ooops, sorry!
Fronts: KSFL-28
Rears: KSRL-27

So your saying the 22's are lower then the 28's? Even though both are the standard LOW spring, just for different models?

My wheels are stock 16", and even now on the front there is about 5mm difference between left and right side clearances (new tyres too). However after measuring properly I expect a 35mm drop will still leave me with about a 20mm gap. Not cutting it fine that's for sure.
Mind you, I'm assuming the standard front strut and the Boge replacement are going to be the same hight as well??? Really hope the Boge isn't longer.... :scratch_one-s_head:


Yeh the 22 is lower than the 28. The 22 will get rid of the horrible gap. Yeh the strut heights are the same height, the BOGE is slighty stiffer than the standards though.

#226 Merlin01

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Posted 04 December 2009 - 03:30 PM

Yeh the 22 is lower than the 28. The 22 will get rid of the horrible gap. Yeh the strut heights are the same height, the BOGE is slighty stiffer than the standards though.

I asked 'King Springs' directly and they told me the 22 is another 20mm lower than the 28, that's a huge drop (approx 35mm [28's] + 20mm [22's] = 55mm). I believe I only have 60-65mm clearance now with standard 16" wheels and 205/50 tyres.
With the standard RL-27's on the back does it look like you car is lower at the front than at the back??

Looking at my State's (SA) guidelines for suspension I found this:

"SUSPENSION CLEARANCE
Under Section 25 of the Road Traffic (Miscellaneous) Regulations 1999, the available suspension travel of a vehicle must not be reduced by more than one third. The specifications included in the list are the minimum allowable.

DETERMINATION OF BUMP RUBBER CLEARANCE
The suspension bump clearance is the distance between the bump rubber, which is usually mounted on the lower control arm or above the upper control arm, and the corresponding contact point. The clearance must be measured with the vehicle on level ground, in its normal operating but unladen state.

DETERMINATION OF VEHICLE EYEBROW HEIGHT

Vehicle bump clearance specifications as designated with the symbol (E) signifies the vehicles minimum eyebrow height. This distance is measured from the centre of the wheel vertically upward to the edge of the vehicles mudguard, with the vehicle in it's normal operating but unladen condition.

FOR FULL DOCUMENTATION DOWNLOAD the PDF FILE HERE."
Source

Do you know if these types of regulations effect your setup? (Bump Rubber Clearance / Eyebrow Height)
Primarily I just want to make sure the changeover is safe, and won't negate my insurance...

#227 Merlin01

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Posted 05 December 2009 - 07:21 AM

From the numbers in that PDF, here is what Minimum Eyebrow Hight is allowed: (centre of the wheel vertically upward to the edge of the vehicles mudguard) -----MODEL-----------------EYEBROW HEIGHT (E) Liberty 4WD Sedan---------Front 322(E) Jan 99–Feb 2000------------Rear 301(E) Going by these numbers it looks like I have a little over 50mm to play with (front & rear) and still come within legal spec. Think I'll take a ride down to the suspension place and have them measure up and make a suggestion.

#228 Merlin01

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Posted 05 December 2009 - 07:32 AM

Gloss black mate as per pic on page 9.

Hmm, I did look for "Gloss Black" in the KillRust range but only found "Black" and "Matt Black". :(
Where did you buy from? General Auto store or somewhere specialised?

#229 Merlin01

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Posted 05 December 2009 - 12:31 PM

Found this today. :dash2:

Posted Image

Picture taken from drivers side engine bay, in about a foot from the top right strut looking straight down. Saw some wet spray of grease/oil all over the place and found this broken boot which I assume to be the cause......
Don't know what it is. Haven't felt or heard anything to suggest any problems (YET), but seriously don't like the look of it.
Jason, can you enlighten me? Will it cost more than springs to fix?? Oh, and what is it??

#230 Delete This Account

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Posted 05 December 2009 - 12:49 PM

That's one dirty CV joint! Bugger Darren :(

#231 Merlin01

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Posted 05 December 2009 - 12:56 PM

Ahh, aren't they meant to make noise when they are rooted?? Obviously all that grease/lube is meant to be inside the boot... that's what worries me.. Spose I'll have to look at new/recon.. Anyone done that before?? CO$T??

#232 RX25SE

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Posted 05 December 2009 - 01:12 PM

Ahh, aren't they meant to make noise when they are rooted??
Obviously all that grease/lube is meant to be inside the boot... that's what worries me..
Spose I'll have to look at new/recon..
Anyone done that before?? CO$T??


Split inner CV joint boot.
Outers get noisy on turns when they wear out.
Replace with a change over drive shaft, fitted with a new outer joint.
From memory, it's been a while, about $70 trade?????? Any one confirm price?

DIY?

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#233 Merlin01

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Posted 05 December 2009 - 07:00 PM

Split inner CV joint boot.
Outers get noisy on turns when they wear out.
Replace with a change over drive shaft, fitted with a new outer joint.
From memory, it's been a while, about $70 trade?????? Any one confirm price?

DIY?

Thanks Jason, I'll see what I can dig up.

#234 Merlin01

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Posted 06 December 2009 - 01:42 PM

Did a bit of searching and found it somewhat more common for the front right boot to split opposed to the left boot because of its proximity to the exhaust (right above it). Noob questions: 1) do they only come in rubber or is there something more heat resistant available? 2) Is it pedantic to want more than 2-5 years wear out of these things, or is it more pedantic to want to fit some shielding to extend the boots life...? :scratch_one-s_head:

#235 RX25SE

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Posted 06 December 2009 - 04:12 PM

2.5 years seems awfully short. I'm fairly sure our GenIII has the original shafts. Seven years and 125000kms, still going strong.

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#236 Merlin01

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Posted 06 December 2009 - 05:11 PM

2.5 years seems awfully short.
I'm fairly sure our GenIII has the original shafts.
Seven years and 125000kms, still going strong.

From what I've read, ALL the aftermarket parts don't compare to original quality and life expectancy.. replacement 'boot kits' have a scheduled life between 2 and 5 years...
If mine is original (don't know), then it's lasted just over 10.5 years @ 162K Km.
Will take it to a CV workshop tomorrow and see what they have to say...

#237 RX25SE

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Posted 06 December 2009 - 05:48 PM

Mate I have seem aftermarket/ change over shafts last waay past 5 years.

Most cars it's the outer that lets go due to the increased angle generated by the steering and the heat of the brakes.


Just do this and you'll be fine.

Replace with a change over drive shaft, fitted with a new outer joint.


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#238 Merlin01

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Posted 06 December 2009 - 05:57 PM

Mate I have seem aftermarket/ change over shafts last waay past 5 years.
Most cars it's the outer that lets go due to the increased angle generated by the steering and the heat of the brakes.

Replace with a change over drive shaft, fitted with a new outer joint.

Thanks Jason, that's what I'll ask for...

On another topic.. noticed my coolant had dropped a bit and went looking online for a brand/type that suits Subaru's.
Firstly went to Subaru and found this.
On special for $169 / 5Lt ?? That stuff liquid gold or what????
Any suggestions on brand/type from non-Subaru sources?

#239 RX25SE

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Posted 06 December 2009 - 06:11 PM

Just use a coolant from a well known brand ie. Mobil, Castrol etc. Use the concentrate, usually in 1lt bottles. The 5 lit stuff is usually watered down. I've never used the Subaru stuff so I can't comment. Most important thing is too flush out ALL the old coolant with water. This includes the coolant that is in the heater core and bypass hoses. You will need to remove hoses, including the bottom hose as the thermostat will be closed, and flush the system from different points in both directions until nothing but clean water comes out. The reason for this is different types/ brands of coolant can react with each other causing a solid sediment to form which may block the radiator/ heater and the like. If you are 100% positive you will be using the exact same coolant then its no drama. The other thing that must be done is BLEED OUT ALL the air. Very, very important as air locks in the cooling system can lead top major dramas. Do a search on this, there should be heaps of info.

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#240 Merlin01

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Posted 06 December 2009 - 07:52 PM

Just use a coolant from a well known brand ie. Mobil, Castrol etc.
Use the concentrate, usually in 1lt bottles. The 5 lit stuff is usually watered down.
I've never used the Subaru stuff so I can't comment.

So I water down the concentrate myself?

Most important thing is too flush out ALL the old coolant with water. This includes the coolant that is in the heater core and bypass hoses. You will need to remove hoses, including the bottom hose as the thermostat will be closed, and flush the system from different points in both directions until nothing but clean water comes out.
The reason for this is different types/ brands of coolant can react with each other causing a solid sediment to form which may block the radiator/ heater and the like.
If you are 100% positive you will be using the exact same coolant then its no drama.
The other thing that must be done is BLEED OUT ALL the air. Very, very important as air locks in the cooling system can lead top major dramas. Do a search on this, there should be heaps of info.

Will do, and I'll check the service manual too.
My current level is 2/3rds full, not immediate danger but I'll keep an eye on it all the same.
Thanks for the advise... many +1's




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