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Brand 2nd-hand 1999 Liberty


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#241 alexGT

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Posted 06 December 2009 - 08:44 PM

So I water down the concentrate myself?

Will do, and I'll check the service manual too.
My current level is 2/3rds full, not immediate danger but I'll keep an eye on it all the same.
Thanks for the advise... many +1's


if your referring to the plastic bottle with yellow cap next to radiator thats not your coolant level, thats the overflow coolant level... do a bit searching and see how the system works.

when your car is cold open up the radiator cap and try fill it up.

MY07 GT spec B

 


#242 TH-37-OY

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Posted 06 December 2009 - 10:22 PM

I asked 'King Springs' directly and they told me the 22 is another 20mm lower than the 28, that's a huge drop (approx 35mm [28's] + 20mm [22's] = 55mm). I believe I only have 60-65mm clearance now with standard 16" wheels and 205/50 tyres.
With the standard RL-27's on the back does it look like you car is lower at the front than at the back??

Looking at my State's (SA) guidelines for suspension I found this:

"SUSPENSION CLEARANCE
Under Section 25 of the Road Traffic (Miscellaneous) Regulations 1999, the available suspension travel of a vehicle must not be reduced by more than one third. The specifications included in the list are the minimum allowable.

DETERMINATION OF BUMP RUBBER CLEARANCE
The suspension bump clearance is the distance between the bump rubber, which is usually mounted on the lower control arm or above the upper control arm, and the corresponding contact point. The clearance must be measured with the vehicle on level ground, in its normal operating but unladen state.

DETERMINATION OF VEHICLE EYEBROW HEIGHT

Vehicle bump clearance specifications as designated with the symbol (E) signifies the vehicles minimum eyebrow height. This distance is measured from the centre of the wheel vertically upward to the edge of the vehicles mudguard, with the vehicle in it's normal operating but unladen condition.

FOR FULL DOCUMENTATION DOWNLOAD the PDF FILE HERE."
Source

Do you know if these types of regulations effect your setup? (Bump Rubber Clearance / Eyebrow Height)
Primarily I just want to make sure the changeover is safe, and won't negate my insurance...


Ok dude your getting way to technical for me. NSW laws and SA laws are different.

How did u measure your distance from the wheel to the guard/wheel arch? U should be measuring from the centre of the wheel to your edge of ur gaurd.

From memory the 22 is a 2.5" drop from and the 28 is a 1.5" drop from standard. Remember to keep in mind that ur stock shocks/spring may have saged from wear n tear and also that my wheels sit further outwards than stock wheel due to the lower offset so u will have more clearance.

Best bet would go 2 a suspension place have them measure it up and go from there. They should/would know the legal side of things.

#243 Dylan

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Posted 06 December 2009 - 11:21 PM

Merlin buddy, the CV boots splitting really ain't a big deal. Can pick up a replacement for $10 or $15 from auto1 or bursons etc.. The CV joint itself should be fine :)

#244 Merlin01

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Posted 06 December 2009 - 11:32 PM

How did u measure your distance from the wheel to the guard/wheel arch? U should be measuring from the centre of the wheel to your edge of ur gaurd.
Best bet would go 2 a suspension place have them measure it up and go from there. They should/would know the legal side of things.

ok, measured from the centre of the wheel to the edge of the guard.... check
I went to a suspension place (SA Suspension) and they told me the 22's would be to low, and therefore be illegal... (SA GREAT!) They suggested the normal Lows, so I guess I'll find out if they know what they're talking about when I get them installed and re-measure..

#245 Merlin01

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Posted 06 December 2009 - 11:35 PM

Merlin buddy, the CV boots splitting really ain't a big deal. Can pick up a replacement for $10 or $15 from auto1 or bursons etc.. The CV joint itself should be fine :)

Thanks Dylan, I've seen cheap boot kits around but I'm not confident enough to attempt a DIY. I'll just stay off of dirt till I get someone to fix it.

#246 Dylan

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Posted 06 December 2009 - 11:43 PM

Mate, even if you get your local mechanic to do it, he should be able to do all the CV boots for 1 hr labour + parts cost. Maybe at least get him to inspect them all if you don't want to get all of them replaced.

#247 Morgan

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Posted 07 December 2009 - 12:06 AM

I drove mine around (unaware) with a split boot for a good 20,000kms. Goodness Knows how long before i bought it it was split. You'll be fine Daz just get it casualy cbecked at your next service or something. *i hereby take no responsibilty if anything actually does go wrong between now and when u get it fixed!!

IM47Gcv.jpg


#248 Merlin01

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Posted 07 December 2009 - 05:43 AM

Mate, even if you get your local mechanic to do it, he should be able to do all the CV boots for 1 hr labour + parts cost. Maybe at least get him to inspect them all if you don't want to get all of them replaced.

Cheers Dylan, I'll get in inspected today!

I drove mine around (unaware) with a split boot for a good 20,000kms. Goodness Knows how long before i bought it it was split. You'll be fine Daz just get it casualy cbecked at your next service or something.
*i hereby take no responsibilty if anything actually does go wrong between now and when u get it fixed!!

For me it's just fear of the unknown... I assume all that grease that is supposed to be inside the boot is there for a reason, I'm just fearful of the joint drying out and causing more damage/wear when it could be avoided.

#249 RX25SE

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Posted 07 December 2009 - 07:03 AM

Mate, even if you get your local mechanic to do it, he should be able to do all the CV boots for 1 hr labour + parts cost. Maybe at least get him to inspect them all if you don't want to get all of them replaced.

Dylan,

I've found that the cost of replacing the boots is similar to replacing with c/over shafts due to the labour involved replacing the boots.

You're right though. Nothing urgent about getting them fixed.

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#250 SAV84C

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Posted 07 December 2009 - 09:04 AM

ok, measured from the centre of the wheel to the edge of the guard.... check
I went to a suspension place (SA Suspension) and they told me the 22's would be to low, and therefore be illegal... (SA GREAT!) They suggested the normal Lows, so I guess I'll find out if they know what they're talking about when I get them installed and re-measure..


Whats to low? I have about 115-120mm road clearance from the lowest point on the car and about 10-20mm gap between wheel n guard. U can see in the pictures how much clearance there is.

U will still have a massive gap with the normal lows but its up to u with which u choose.

#251 thatsgoodsquishy

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Posted 07 December 2009 - 09:14 AM

I'd be getting it done sooner rather than later. As mentioned the inner joint wont wear as quick as the outer but as soon as the grease is out and the grit starts getting in its only a matter of time. Doesn't matter if your going to get a change over shaft of course but if yours is ok i'd be doing the boot rather than grabbing another shaft. I killed an L series outer joint in a matter of weeks once, saw the boot was split but couldn't be arsed doing anything about it and within about 6 weeks it was clicking, I did live on a dirt road at the time though. That said I did a front outer on my gen2 in tassie a few years back and didnt fix it till i got back home a couple weeks later with no long lasting effects. Id try and get it replaced in the next couple weeks if i was you, otherwise it will be chrissy/new year and that will be another couple weeks till mechanics are open again. Or DIY, the inner boot is about a five minute job (depending on how thoroughly you want clean out the joint) once the shaft is out. :dance:

#252 Merlin01

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Posted 07 December 2009 - 11:02 PM

I'd be getting it done sooner rather than later. As mentioned the inner joint wont wear as quick as the outer but as soon as the grease is out and the grit starts getting in its only a matter of time. Doesn't matter if your going to get a change over shaft of course but if yours is ok i'd be doing the boot rather than grabbing another shaft.
I killed an L series outer joint in a matter of weeks once, saw the boot was split but couldn't be arsed doing anything about it and within about 6 weeks it was clicking, I did live on a dirt road at the time though. That said I did a front outer on my gen2 in tassie a few years back and didnt fix it till i got back home a couple weeks later with no long lasting effects.
Id try and get it replaced in the next couple weeks if i was you, otherwise it will be chrissy/new year and that will be another couple weeks till mechanics are open again. Or DIY, the inner boot is about a five minute job (depending on how thoroughly you want clean out the joint) once the shaft is out. :dance:

Had it looked at today, was quoted $95 to clean, re-grease, and replace the boot - said they have "special" ones now days that are are shaped a little different for the right hand side in an attempt to keep it away from the exhaust...
For a shaft change over they quoted me $250.
So just gonna do the boot - Wednesday morning - bout an hour they reckon (or they want to charge me for an hour regardless).

U will still have a massive gap with the normal lows but its up to u with which u choose.

My measuring suggests around 60-65mm clearance standard, the 28's are only gonna get rid of 30mm of it. Still gonna have 30-35mm gap. :unsure:
Got the fronts the other day (28's). Took them out of the box and read the notice stuck to the plastic wrap. Special attention to no.4:

4. Check for Driver side and Passenger side (marked R/H or L/H on coil tag).

Only problem is - there is no damn coil tag or any R/H - L/H markings on the stupid things!! :mad:
Will have to consult them about this minor omission! :angry:

O/T: what year is your RX? My 1999 has the same headlights as your but different driving/fog light inserts. Looks like the same bumper/grill... I want ones that look like yours!!! B)

#253 SAV84C

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Posted 08 December 2009 - 09:37 AM

Had it looked at today, was quoted $95 to clean, re-grease, and replace the boot - said they have "special" ones now days that are are shaped a little different for the right hand side in an attempt to keep it away from the exhaust...
For a shaft change over they quoted me $250.
So just gonna do the boot - Wednesday morning - bout an hour they reckon (or they want to charge me for an hour regardless).


My measuring suggests around 60-65mm clearance standard, the 28's are only gonna get rid of 30mm of it. Still gonna have 30-35mm gap. :unsure:
Got the fronts the other day (28's). Took them out of the box and read the notice stuck to the plastic wrap. Special attention to no.4:

4. Check for Driver side and Passenger side (marked R/H or L/H on coil tag).

Only problem is - there is no damn coil tag or any R/H - L/H markings on the stupid things!! :mad:
Will have to consult them about this minor omission! :angry:

O/T: what year is your RX? My 1999 has the same headlights as your but different driving/fog light inserts. Looks like the same bumper/grill... I want ones that look like yours!!! B)


Cant help u out with the springs... Maybe put them next 2 each other n see if the lengths a different... I think the left side the car is suppose 2 sit lower than the right when no1 is in the car due to the fact there is always some1 in the drivers seat.

Mine is an early MY01

#254 RX25SE

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Posted 08 December 2009 - 10:32 AM

Cant help u out with the springs... Maybe put them next 2 each other n see if the lengths a different...

I do this regardless. Always fit taller spring to drivers side if part numbers are the same.


I think the left side the car is suppose 2 sit lower than the right when no1 is in the car due to the fact there is always some1 in the drivers seat.

Troofs.

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#255 Merlin01

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Posted 08 December 2009 - 04:15 PM

Cant help u out with the springs... Maybe put them next 2 each other n see if the lengths a different... I think the left side the car is suppose 2 sit lower than the right when no1 is in the car due to the fact there is always some1 in the drivers seat.

Always fit taller spring to drivers side if part numbers are the same.
Troofs.

Thanks gents for the info. King Springs sent this response to my enquiry:
"You just need to check for R/H and L/H, if not marked, then there is no R/H and L/H coil and can install them either way."

I put them next to each other and one definately sits a little higher, no more than 5mm if not less.
Promise not to pre-judge the spring based on their person who handles email enquiries... :unsure:

Mine is an early MY01

What a difference a year makes - mine is mid-99 (within a month before MY00), from what looked similar at a glance is no where near similar upon closer inspection. My headlight is squarer and nerdier than yours and my fog light insert is a completely different shape. :(

Posted Image

Posted Image

#256 TH-37-OY

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Posted 09 December 2009 - 09:14 AM

Thanks gents for the info. King Springs sent this response to my enquiry:
"You just need to check for R/H and L/H, if not marked, then there is no R/H and L/H coil and can install them either way."

I put them next to each other and one definately sits a little higher, no more than 5mm if not less.
Promise not to pre-judge the spring based on their person who handles email enquiries... :unsure:


What a difference a year makes - mine is mid-99 (within a month before MY00), from what looked similar at a glance is no where near similar upon closer inspection. My headlight is squarer and nerdier than yours and my fog light insert is a completely different shape. :(

Posted Image

Posted Image



You'll also find that your side door mouldings are not colour coded either...

#257 Merlin01

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Posted 09 December 2009 - 03:26 PM

You'll also find that your side door mouldings are not colour coded either...

Yep, lesson learnt: best to get the latter of a GEN/Series - not the first. :rolleyes:

Got a reply from King Springs about the difference in hight of my front pair. They said they have a 0mm-4mm tolerance on same size springs.
I got the full 4mm. :)

#258 Merlin01

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Posted 14 December 2009 - 04:12 PM

Now for something different.....

Noticed small pools of 'something' under the left hand side of the car on the weekend. Almost 1 & 1/2 feet in from the LH Front wheel and about 1 & 1/2 feet back from the center of the wheel itself.

When looking under it I can see small drops of 'something' under this one particular part (suspension related?), and when I touch it; it appears clear with a tacky consistency...

The part in question is this;

Posted Image


Posted Image

Anyone tell me what this thing is? What does it do? Why is it leaking? What is the best thing to fix it with? Replacement/Aftermarket upgrade??
Thanks for any info...

#259 alexGT

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Posted 14 December 2009 - 04:28 PM

thats just a rubber bush it won't be leaking. i'd say its condensation off your A/C probably...

MY07 GT spec B

 


#260 Merlin01

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Posted 14 December 2009 - 05:08 PM

Hmm, just went and wiped off those three drops (still hanging there), it really feels like grease but more sticky.... more like a gel if anything. From the first pic above, there isn't anything above that bush, and you can see where it's sprayed back against the undercarriage. From the 2nd pic there doesn't appear to be anything in front that is wet...... Has me stumped!! :blink:




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