1104 replies to this topic

[vicelore]

Well as soon as i know the full details of the damage to the engine ill be sending a letter with supporting doco and pics to them.. They are addimit that they tested it to its fullest.

His last responses where



"I can assure you that every engine that leaves our shop has been fully tested, was the comp test done hot or cold?"

" Replied that it was tested cold."


"You can never get a accurate compression test when the engine is cold, did they even have oil pressure on the engine when they did the test so the hydraulic buckets on top of the valves pump up?

As I said we run tested that engine here before we sent it and were happy with it so I don’t think you are going to have any problems."

Now that iv gone out of my way and $650 out of pocket for ripping the thing to pieces .. Iv found the truth..

[MrSober88]

That's pretty crap, When your close and find another obstacle. I hope I don't have to many problems with mine. . . .

[vicelore]

Oh well lets hope it ends up in 300+ kw atw.. If im going to be spending the big bucks thats what im going to be looking for..

[Matt]

Ya aint gonna get that with just a built motor dude? A decent sized turbo, front mount and a hell of a lot of supporting mods and youll be getting close though

Build it tough as nails if ya wanna try for it though, no point going half arse now

[vicelore]

Thats the plan.. And i know a bigger turbo will be on the cards, FMIC was always the plan..

[vicelore]

So iv been looking around at whats required for when building a engine and the components prices.

As i want to know what im talking about when i sit down with my tuner bloke and discuss the plans..

Does the list below sound accurate..

Forged pistons/rods $1000
Head studs $200
Bolt/rods $120
Cams $700
Gaskets $300
Bearings $150
injectors $350


Most this stuff is comming off Jake fakes new engine and a quick google for pricing..As that thing sounds like its making the kind of power im hoping for.

http://www.subyclub....180#entry263743

[allpaw4]

I would be screwing them to the wall over that. Bent rods and failed pistons. Thats absolute crap. Hope you get some coin out of them. Maybe even get them to shell out for the re-build.

[vicelore]

As soon as I get the pics and the report of the pull apart I'm going to contact them. Was contemplating having a layer write up a letter for me. But not sure it if will end up worth it. I'd be happy with a few grand I spose.

[Matt]

So iv been looking around at whats required for when building a engine and the components prices.

As i want to know what im talking about when i sit down with my tuner bloke and discuss the plans..

Does the list below sound accurate..

Forged pistons/rods $1000
Head studs $200
Bolt/rods $120
Cams $700
Gaskets $300
Bearings $150
injectors $350


Most this stuff is comming off Jake fakes new engine and a quick google for pricing..As that thing sounds like its making the kind of power im hoping for.

http://www.subyclub....180#entry263743

What exactly is coming off his engine??

[vicelore]

As in stuff coming off his, I meant info... most of my info in what's needed is coming from his build. Sorry for the confusion

[Matt]

As in stuff coming off his, I meant info... most of my info in what's needed is coming from his build. Sorry for the confusion

Oh ok cool

Also OEM timing belt kit with all cam seals/crank seals/oil pump o-ring, check and re-seal the oil seperator plate, OEM water pump, may aswell throw a new OEM oil pump at it, rocker cover gaskets/bolt grommets and spark plug seals, injectors if youre going for 300atw need to really be ID1000 minimum ($500-550ish), quality spark plugs, probably a new oil filter cooler as they get shit in them after the engine has let go...im sure theres more??

id personally overkill it and go ARGO rods with modded CP pistons, all genuine gaskets etc

And remember to factor in a quality dyno/road tune for break in and after break in a re-tune...i cannot stress this enough...the tune will make or break the engine (literally break it)

Hell throw some phenolic spacers in whilst its apart

[Murf B4]

300 atw with $200 head studs? and what sized huffer? its doable with a 2.0 , but a 2.5 will push a bigger turbo easyer,.

[Matt]

It will be laggy, but fun when she gets on boost if ya get there....250atw is a very doable number on a 2L even with stock internals, and its a good mix between lag and acceleration...billet wheels and BB turbo only makes it better

And yeah i thought quality studs were around the $5-600 mark...cossie studs are about $650...14mm studs id say are the go to overkill it

If my engine was apart id 2.5 it without question...i love my 2l, but 2.5's have uber amounts of torque...and torques what ya want

[Scuba-Roo]

Dont forget labour costs. Not just for assembley but if you go up a size in head studs their will be a charge in machine work.

[vicelore]

Just the kinda info i was after guys..I had no idea that to have bigger head studs you needed the bores machined out, even tho it makes perfect sence. I hadnt planned on doing a rebuild for a couple of years when i looked at doing the conversion.. But now it seems i have no choice..

Gonna have a big sit down with tuner as soon as he gets the info back from the machine shop on the condition of the block. Ill prob state that id love to get to the 300kw mark and go from there.. His workshop is full of suby race cars as well as a whole heap of awesome fully built cars.. So i have full faith in his opinion..

Its funny when i started researching this conversion everyone seemed to be against 2.5`s...Maybe i misunderstood..

[Matt]

Stock 2.5's, yeah theyre weak without internal work...a "proper" built 2.5 and a good tune = happy times.....stock ej207's are built tough as and take a fair bit of abuse without the need to open them up

You dont need the bores machined out, you need the hole enlarged and re-tapped for the headstud itself, and i believe the head holes themselves enlarged

[vicelore]

Stock 2.5's, yeah theyre weak without internal work...a "proper" built 2.5 and a good tune = happy times.....stock ej207's are built tough as and take a fair bit of abuse without the need to open them up

You dont need the bores machined out, you need the hole enlarged and re-tapped for the headstud itself, and i believe the head holes themselves enlarged

Yea i thought that was the case.. I just used the wrong word

[vicelore]

So i just sourced a GC8 STI rear LSD diff that has been converted to 3.9 ratio to match my 6 speed.. Herd it should go into the Gen 3 rear end with a few bolts being changed... So thats a big weight off my shoulders regarding the rear end

Got in the front cross member and some new alloy control arms last night too..
Noticed one of the B4 CV`s i had recieved was desconnected at the hub end so going to work on putting that back in over the weekend then the car will be at a rollable state again

Also worked on cleaning up my 4 pots ready for a lick of paint over the weekend.. Then they will be fitted
Is there a way to tell if the insides of them are still in working order ?

I also noticed that iv got a broken steering rack boot on the lib rack.. Can i use the Wrx steering rack ? Iv herd people talk about a short steering rack is that what swap they are talking about ?

Cheers Vice.

[Shaz]

For the price man, it might also be worthwhile chucking a seal kit through the 4 pots. I think Mark (CRUISN) will know where to get them on the cheap, as he does alot of work with brakes.

Cheers,
Shazza

[Matt]

Got in the front cross member and some new alloy control arms last night too..

Is there a way to tell if the insides of them are still in working order ?

I also noticed that iv got a broken steering rack boot on the lib rack.. Can i use the Wrx steering rack ? Iv herd people talk about a short steering rack is that what swap they are talking about ?

Cheers Vice.

GC8 control arms?? if so did you use the gc8 sti endlinks onto a B4 swaybar?? as the standard lib links wont work properly, and the GD sti links are too short

are you talking about the GD sti steering rack?? as they arent a straight swap over due to differences in splines....a gc8 sti one will swap over pretty easily though

Saying that, steering rack boots are cheap as (or you could use the wrx boots?)....but make sure theres no play in the inner tie rods as this is common on older racks...easily repaired with new ones though

Though the lib racks are shit compared to a wrx rack or better yet an actual "quickrack" off an RA......i love my quickrack!!

For the price man, it might also be worthwhile chucking a seal kit through the 4 pots. I think Mark (CRUISN) will know where to get them on the cheap, as he does alot of work with brakes.

Cheers,
Shazza

+1, do it once, do it right

at a minimum the dust covers are easy to do...i just dropped my old 4 pots into a brake specialist with the kits and had them back in two hours and it cost $50