110 replies to this topic

[Miguel]

Ausdel cr is 8.0:1. Jap engine better off boost. Probably best to run 98 fuel with it to keep it happy.

Copied from Wikipedia...

The original Legacy speed record was set between January 2 and January 21, 1989, with three Japanese-spec turbocharged RS sedans at the Arizona Test Center outside of Phoenix, Arizona. It broke the 100,000 km FIA World Land Endurance Record by maintaining an average speed of 138.780 mph (223.345 km/h) for 447 hours, 44 minutes and 9.887 seconds, or 18.5 days. Pit stops were made every two hours with a driver change and refueling, while tire changes were made at 96‑hour intervals, or every 13,400 miles (21,600 km) driven.

They held the overall 100,000km record until 2005 when Mercedes beat it with a Diesel.

[El_Freddo]

Who would think of a challenge like that??

So much awesome!

I'm guessing I can't run WRX dished pistons with the RS heads due to the change in angle of the valves, correct?

Cheers

Bennie

[El_Freddo]

Small picture-less update:

 

The engine is in at the builders to be measured up for new bearings and rings.  I've borrowed an AUDM RS piston from a new mate in order to find an aftermarket replacement.  It's been a week now and I've not heard from the builders so I reckon it's more of a task than they first thought.

 

Over my break from work I managed to go parting in the first week - twice

 

For the RS I picked up a few odds and ends - factory air box, front RH inner guard plastic and a "new" straight white (hopefully matching) rear door with an un-cracked garnish and good paint.  I also picked up some wheel nuts and considered a set of Gen3 RX (I think) style rims - but they're not a priority so I left them behind.

While I had the air intake pipe work off (need a few new bits of pipe work) I noted that it's got at TD05 turbo with a cast RS elbow on it.  Can anyone shed some light on this turbo's characteristics and how I could expect it to behave?

 

I fitted up the wheel nuts and placed the centre caps on the rims - I don't mind them.  They're not what I want in the long run but they'll more than do for now

Pics to come later - hopefully this coming week all going well.

And first Partsouq.com order is being compiled.  I put in everything I want and it's tallied up quick!  I'm still not sure which HGs to go with as there are four part numbers as listed in my other thread here.  There are a number of items that are not in stock so I need to find out what happens with those (some may be NLA ) - I'd like to only pay postage once!

 

Cheers

Bennie

[Barbbachello]

TD05 is a good turbo. Fairly laggy but will pull hard onces it's spooled up.

[Robert]

If it's a 16g shouldn't be horrendous in terms of lag

Pretty common upgrade for an RS
Will pack a nice punch though

[Usas]

I had a TD05 on my RS, the lag wasn't too bad came on aound 3000-3500ish. I will defiantly be upgrading my wagon to one when it's got an exhaust made up. I went from a TD04 to the TD05 and the difference was massive in the actual feel of the car, it had much more of a stronger pull and keeps going till redline.

[El_Freddo]

Interesting.

Not quite what I'm after since it's a daily/family car. I'm not after a "redliner" and that would explain why the current engine is pretty much dead. There also a lot of splatter in the intake right up to the elbow before the AFM. It looks like grease - I can't work out how it got there.

Also the factory boost control solenoid (on the driver's strut tower) has been bypassed :???: So it appears boost pressure is plumbed straight to the waste gate actuator.

Turbo has TD05H cast into it with F20 stamped after the cast bit. What does this mean?

I reckon I'd prefer boost lower down to have some gear changing boost fun within the legal limit, rather than just a first/second change then whoosh to 110kmph in no time...

So can't wait to have this thing on the road!

And for future reference is there any way to retard boost (for purposes of RWC to avoid dickheads flogging the new engine before it's properly run in)?

Cheers

Bennie

[Robert]

The way it's setup now it will run wastegate pressure
Which would be ~8 psi

Don't think the RS runs much more than that factory anyway

No way to go Lower than wastegate without somehow setting the wastegate open all the time

[Barbbachello]

TD04 of a WRX would probably more suited. Can get them with the right angle inlet so will fit nicely

[Reevesy]

Td05H will be out of an early wrx.
Great turbo for giving it a boot full when feeling like it but big enough to also stay of boost while cruising around town. It will depend a lot on driving style

Like Tim said starts to kick in around 3k and will pull to redline.

Best way to run minimum boost is to run waste gate pressure (9psi on TD05H) which is running a hose straight from the waste gate to the turbo nipple, bypassing the boost solenoid, which it sounds like has already been done.

You may find that a Td04 may suit your driving style if you aren't going to be stretching it's legs so to speak. Will start spooling earlier but will run out of puff well before redline.

Also not sure what exhaust you have but a 3" from the turbo back will drastically improve performance. And with the right muffler can still stay fairly quiet.

[El_Freddo]

The way it's setup now it will run wastegate pressure
Which would be ~8 psi
Don't think the RS runs much more than that factory anyway
No way to go Lower than wastegate without somehow setting the wastegate open all the time

  
Thanks for the info. I wonder why they've bypassed it then. There's also a pot load of pipe work missing off the pre turbo bend - they've just been blanked off. I'll get to this issue in good time - probably once it comes to bolting the intake manifold on the rebuilt block... They've also shorted the temp sensor wires together so the fan run all the time. Weird thing to do I reckon (just buy the damn sensor if it's needed!)

TD04 of a WRX would probably more suited. Can get them with the right angle inlet so will fit nicely

Awesome. I might have to keep an eye out for one. I didn't know the TD05 came with a cast elbow either, so that was an interesting find.
Would it need to be professionally tuned after a turbo swap or just an ECU flash?

Thanks again for the info!

Cheers

Bennie

[Reevesy]

RS's have a few problems with dodgy boost solenoids so usually easier to put a manual controller in and the previous owner may have taken it out prior to sale.

Won't need to have it tuned and you won't be able to on the stock ecu anyways. Plenty of people including myself have run a td05 at 18psi on stock ecu with no ptroubles at all

The earlier ecu's are a bit more flexible with changes then the later ones.

[El_Freddo]

Thanks Reevesy,

Next question:

How do you tell there's a dodgy boost solenoid?

Cheers

Bennie

[Reevesy]

Only way I could think off is plug it in a keep an eye on it with a boost gauge. Iirc stock boost was 11.7psi. But that is with a vf12 with a 7psi wastegate spring.

[Usas]

I enjoyed the TD05 alot better than the TD04 because it give you the chance to drive it off boost, then when you want to wind it out you just shift a little later. I don't think I've ever taken mine all the way to redline  

 

The boost solenoid is plumbed back on itself to stop a check engine light appearing I've read. I've done the same on my sedan but have seen people leave both the side outlets with nothing on them.

 

I was running about 12-14psi most of the time so if you had it on wastegate pressure it would be a little more relaxed

[El_Freddo]

Thanks Usas,

I hadn't thought about being off boost at cruise. After getting all excited about putti g a game plan together above I've had some time to reflect where I reckon I should just see how the TD05 goes first. That'd probably be the best starting point...

Cheers

Bennie

[El_Freddo]

Update time with pics!  I managed to pull down the block between work and family commitments.  I must say that this is my first EJ pull down and it was good to see some of the advancements in design over the EA82 (which I still believe was a slap job to meet the over head cam catch cry of the 80s automotive industry).

I got the heads off some time ago and was hunting pistons (more on this later).  To get them out theres a bit of a process:  remove this 14mm hex plug to access the gudgeon pins:
 


Above is my home made tool.  Worked well for the first two, didnt do it for the last one so I went and purchased a proper tool as I figure Ill need it to put the plugs in at the correct torque spec.  Once that plug is off youll see the circlip like this:
 


A set of long nose pliers has these out relatively easily.  Then its time to get the gudgeon pin out - this can be a bit tricky if theres a film of oil residue built up.  I use a slide hammer with a long home made hook on it.  Heres the pin on the on way out:
 


Out and on the slide hammers hook:
 


Then to split the block, remove the sump and all the bolts on the front, top and rear of engine - and dont forget the little 10mm headed bolt on the underside of the block near the oil pump area.  The oil pump also needs to be removed (already done in previous pics).
 


Then its time time remove the main bolts that hold the block together.  From memory theres 10 in total with 6 or 8 of those in the coolant galleries.

Then the block can be split with some gentle persuasion.  Once the block has been split then the pistons can be removed.  With the pistons removed you can see the oil squirter that provides oil on the back of the piston for cooling.  I wouldnt image that these would be too hard to add into other blocks if they were thought necessary for the build/intended use:
 


The bores, probably a good thing theyre in for a re-bore job:
 

 

 
I couldnt tell you which side this is or what the pot number is

So here are the different pistons:

WRX replacement piston (used with WRX single bolt heads):
 

 
JDM RS turbo piston (used with RS two bolt heads):
 

 
AUDM RS turbo piston (used with RS two bolt heads):
 

 
The engine builders have the AUDM sample piston, over the phone I was quoted $440 for a set of pistons which I thought was good.  Since dropping the sample unit in the price has upped to about $740!  Race pistons it is.  Really Ive not got a choice, otherwise I dont have an engine - but it should last the distance!
On a lighter note, heres a bit of country engineering found in a box of spare bits:
 


Noice! 
 
And a pic of the rims with the centre cap on.  I dont mind them, better than I thought theyd look:
 


Now to get the engine back and find the time to put it together.  Im really hoping to have this on the road well before Christmas but knowing how things go around here that might just happen.
 
Oh, and its mozzie season out there now too.  Little bastards!  All the rain weve had isnt helping that situation (Goulburn River peaked somewhere near 10.4m last week!).

A couple of thanks to share:
- Captain Obvious and Bboypebs  who threw a block my way (one to build, one for a future project)
- idyat for the lending of the factory AUDM RS turbo piston for comparison
Cheers

Bennie

[El_Freddo]

So I wanted to get a few things done this weekend in prep for engine build time that will take me away from these "little things":

 

- replace globes in instrument cluster

- replace bearing in the WAIC water pump

- replace boots on the rear drive shaft 

 

Globes:  Easy it seems.  Instrument cluster is out (practiced that at pick a park a few weeks ago - now wish I got the dash surround and screws as mine has a number of screws missing and a few of the mount points are cracked).

 

RS liberty club research suggests T10 globes x2 and T5 globes x12.  But looking at the three coloured globe seats/clips, they each have a different sized globe in there - and since they're blown, it's really difficult to read the make of the globes

 

So I think I'll be taking the instrument cluster in to get what I need - and it won't be to super cheap either - $4 for two T5s!  Forget it!

 

The WAIC pump went pretty smoothly - I used two little G clamps and some flat scrap pieces of steel to seal the hoses from leaking while I had the pump out - I didn't really want to drain the whole system!

The pump removal from the vehicle was relatively easy, as was the pulling apart of it.  Again, some research on RSLC came up with the goods here, but you'll have to be a member to access this part of that forum

 

I wasn't keen to tap the shaft to remove it from the bearing, and I didn't have a press available.  So I came up with this little setup that did the trick:

 

 

Now I've got the bearing and seal out I'm hoping I can track me down the seal as I've heard there isn't a replacement (which I find hard to believe).

 

The replacement of the boots on the rear driveshaft came to a halt when I found that I don't have the right socket for the job.  I think it's a 32mm but can't remember as it's been years since I've had one of these off.  So that was a no go.

 

I did get a pic of her with the centre caps on that's better than the one above

 

 

Other things I need to do:  

- look into this interior trim removal tool I've heard about so I can:

- remove head lining to fit "new" second hand rear wagon door that's in better shape than mine

- remove and clean the carpet that's still got half the farm in it from the previous owner

- last thing will be to wire in a head unit for some tunes while cruising

- probably get a new windscreen for RWC - but will most likely try my chances on the current one

 

Also, looking at the exhaust while under the car today I'm hoping it's not too loud to pass RWC.  It looks like a full 3 inch exhaust from the turbo back.  I know from previous investigation/looking around the vehicle it's got an Xforce dump pipe.  I won't know until I get the new engine together and fitted.

 

I can't wait to have this on the road.  Looks like it'll be xmas at this rate 

 

Cheers

 

Bennie

[motoboy76]

Awesome work mate, I have to change a front drive shaft in the next couple of days.

Looking forward to hearing that you get to take it for your first cruise, I couldn't wipe the smile off my face when took mine....

[El_Freddo]

Yeah I bet!

I picked up a 32mm socket tonight on my way home. $20! But it'll be a keeper and is 3/4 drive I might see if I can get that rear shaft done during the week but I'm not holding my breath on this one.

I'm trying to work out where to get the globes I need for the best price. There are three types I need:

T10 (?W); T6.5 (3W?); T5 (1.4W). I can't remember the T10 wattage and had a pot luck guess at the T6.5 wattage.

Once I've got these the dash can go back together again.

I also picked up a new bearing for the WAIC pump but the store I was at hadn't seen a seal like this pump uses. I'm hoping I might find one with Subaru, otherwise my other thoughts are to try an electronics/appliance service place to find a suitable seal.

Fun and games. I'm hoping to pick up the engine soon so that can start going back together. At which point I'm hoping things will come together relatively quickly. If things halt/stall I'll turn my attention to pulling the dead engine out or peeling bits off that'll go back on the fresh engine.

I'm also trying to work out how to "sort out" the lifter tick I keep hearing about. Following a good mate's knowledge on these I've been looking into increasing the size of the oil galleries in the head but have since found out that the bum end of the lifter seats/pots protrudes into the actual gallery, blocking almost half of the gallery's diametre.

I've thought about drilling the oil feed holes in the seats/pots to the next size up or adding an extra hole or two in the base of the seat/pot directly into the oil gallery. I'm just not sure yet as I don't want to stuff a good set of heads.

Maybe the 12mm rotor oil pump that's going on this engine will be enough will be enough - I'd rather do something to think it helped out with the lifter tick problem.

Cheers

Bennie