272 replies to this topic

[cowie165]

Looks like there's another TT doctor in the making... :-) Nice one Pat.

 

1.2 is definitely getting up there! I don't know what a safe maximum would be though. Is it based on AFRs? As in, if they're safe you're good to go? Mine runs 12/16 (~0.8/1.2). 9:1 EJ206 with line 10 and stock dumps and StockyMcStockface ECU

[duncanm]

I understood boost cut was 18psi -- perilously close to 1.2bar

[Robert]

Zero sports ecu probably has a higher boost cut

[cowie165]

This feels like a dumb question but if 5MT run a lower CR than auto they should be ok with slightly higher boost? I don't really care what the number is, just looking to confirm that EJ206 and EJ208 will have different numbers.

 

But then why does 206 make less power out of the box as it has a higher CR? I guess that assumes same boost on both

[Jimbo]

Because the AT trans can't handle as much power (preservation of the trans) as the 5MT and the autos are tailored a bit more towards economy, hence the later E-Tune GTB's. 

[duncanm]

Jimbo - I think the question is _how_ is the lower power implemented ?  Lower boost targets ?

[Jimbo]

Well the difference in static CR was only in A-C where the EJ206 ran 8.5:1,  EJ208's had 9:1. Later on in D-E RSK/GT-B it was all 9:1 due to increasing emission targets. 

I dare say the EJ206's have much less aggressive timing maps compared to the 208's. So they can still make the same boost targets (even though TT's vary wildly to the next one) but make less power/torque. It's more torque that's lost though with the A-E autos all doing 191kw/319nm compared to 206kw/343nm. Different turbo specs probably mean something too. 

 

[montoya_cul]

I´m currently running 1,1/0,8 on a completly Stock Rev-D EJ208 MT.

 

So 1,2/1,3 sound actually fairly awesome to me.

 

Any experineces with EcuTek on a JDM BH5 around here?

 

Cherrs

[Jimbo]

"EcuWreck" is generally frowned upon after some horror stories.

Later revisions for some reason seem to run less PSI on sequential than they do on primary. With the added secondary turbo, its greatly increasing the CFM flow anyway. Everything prior to the late
GTB/RSK's has always run more boost on primary than sequential operation. Strange, but it's always been said the very last iteration and tune in the Rev-E (not our B4 garbage tune we got here) was the pinnacle of the Subaru TT's.

I think from memory the very last Rev E's were something like 210kw/343Nm.

[CRUISN]

0.9/1.1 on my Rev D since the BBOD rebuild.

[patrick27s]

So a quick update I tried to make progress on the GTB over the weekend but I had various amounts of luck, firstly I change my rear brake pads earlier in the week as they were almost gone. All was good again breaks felt heaps better old pads must have been shit house. Very quiet and smooth just what you want.

Installed a dashboard in a GT4 Celica as it was cracked. Wasn't really that bad, I thought it would be worse (no airbags probably explains it)

Then on the weekend I set off to change the suspension. I took the rear springs off the new struts I got from Mark, got the jack and stands ready, drove the car up on bricks and then I couldn't find the lock nut key for my wheels. So progress stopped there. After a few hours of looking and no finding I was a bit pissed off and packed up. My mate who was over convinced me into washing our cars and we ended up treating our cars to a compound and polishing compound. The bonnet on the GT-B was pretty shitty, had oil marks all over it swirls and looked faded. Was amazed with the results of it. It was my first time using a machine buffer. Also treated my mates GT-4 Celica to a buff and polish, came out amazing.

Test fit new mats looks so good

Also undecided if I should as my rear bumper protector. I kinda like the clean look it has without it.

What's everyone's thoughts?

Cheers, Pat

[Jimbo]

Get that protector on there! Looks much better with it! JDM cred!

Also, sort yourself out some front indicator bulbs, look for the Narva Phantoms. It'll get rid of the ghastly orange from the headlights Looks 11ty times better.

Awesome work on the body, too. She's lookin' good!

[CRUISN]

Nice work.

 

I'll take the HQ thanks.

[Adam]

Tailgate protectors are a nope from me.

Practical yep. But I don't think they look great

[CRUISN]

Yeh..... bumper protectors look shit...

[Niko]

And as Adam learnt, they don't protect the tailgate at all

[CRUISN]

Maybe why they're called bumper protectors and not tailgate protectors....?

[Adam]

I didn't have one on. Probably the issue

[patrick27s]

So long time no post haha!

Been heaps busy with things as of late and haven't had much time to post up so a quick update for everyone, car has been off the road for a while hence the lack of updates.

I have since replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter with a new one and a DW65 goes awesome! And a new filter was much needed the old one was all black lmao

Also installed the factory sub and extended the factory harness with some speaker wire which I'll connect to an amp when I have the money to buy one lol.

Shitty last pic but it's the only one I have ATM.

Next thing I did was tackle the cracked intake duct. I removed the manifold and stripped it apart and cleaned it down. Replaced the old duct and then reassembled. Cleaned the top of the engine a little as it was covered in shit. Lol.

Inspected my turbos and they looked alright, can confirm they are VF26/VF27

[patrick27s]

So after I finished the intake manifold and running into several problems like the stupid bolt covered by the intake duct (thanks to Jim for the solution that worked) I tested and finally got it working, still sounds like there is an air leak somewhere however it's idling nice and smooth so I was happy with the intake manifold being on properly.

The car started to boost creep lately or so I thought it was and the boost pressure went up to 1.4 bar which is too high for my liking - so I've been looking into why, I thought maybe it was the wastegate as it didn't really open I just backed off the pedal at 1.4 bar. My initial thought was I got some vacuums hoses the wrong way around when replacing the manifold, checked and it was alright. Car had 1.2 bar for a few drives and then it went back to 1.4 again so I was concerned once again, thought maybe it was the ECU and I tried a factory ECU however this had no success and the factory ECU is boosting to 1.4 bar, feels a bit more punchy then the zerosports ECU, but the change over is so bad on this ECU compared to the Zerosports one so I gotta fix that now.

Speaking of change over I attempted the hose 1 mod and it had made it worse if anything, gonna have to try it again lmao.

Checked the wastegate again by running wastegate pressure and it worked correctly. Tried the controller again and it was boosting too high. And I've been a bit stuck on what to do. Tonight I was just cruising in the wagon not boosting because it boost too high for me and I got a check engine light, error code 45 (pressure sensor/MAP sensor) I now have a feeling that this sensor is in fact broken (I thought I serviced it in my BBOD service and it temporarily stopped the lights) however it would make sense if this sensor was not reporting to the ECU the correct pressure in the engine and thus why the wastegate opens at random pressures because it's getting a false boost pressure reading.

So the next step in the puzzle of boost issues is to chase this sensor inspect it and see if there's obvious damage, find some part numbers and replace it if needed.

Hopefully I'll be updating on here more often too.

If anyone has information on error code 45 I'd appreciate anything you know haha

Thanks, Pat