272 replies to this topic

[Beckers]

Nice job m8,

Your car is so clean, so nice.

You are going to HVC yeah ??

[Jimbo]

The map sensor you will find inside the BBOD. It's the biggest one in the middle. Usually we recommend to clean the solenoids but not the map as it can damage it long term.

I'm pretty sure it's the same part # you'll find on WRX's of the same year but double check anyway, it might make it easier to find a replacement.

In my opinion, and yours being a manual, I don't think 1.4 bar is too high at all. Don't forget they're 206kw and 343nm out of the box! My auto used to get just over 1 bar on sequential. I would only be concerned if your hitting 1.4 bar on the primary alone. Also don't forget you will unlock a bit of extra power as the air cools in the season too. My GTB (both the Gen2 and 3) felt nearly like different animals in the opposing seasons.

When you say you attempted the hose 1 mod, did you mean hose 10? The hose 1 mod is where you insert a restrictor pill into the line to the Intercooler Control Valve. 

Also, if you're thinking you're still hearing a boost leak, check the BOV gasket and the intercooler elbow gaskets. The thing I find strange is when there's an electrical fault it will retard performance rather than gift you more! This reasoning is what makes me think it might be a mechanical problem. 

[patrick27s]

Nice job m8,
Your car is so clean, so nice.
You are going to HVC yeah ??

Hahah thanks mate, but the stupid thing still doesn't work haha!

Yes I will be there I was there last year in my RX haha

[patrick27s]

The map sensor you will find inside the BBOD. It's the biggest one in the middle. Usually we recommend to clean the solenoids but not the map as it can damage it long term.

I'm pretty sure it's the same part # you'll find on WRX's of the same year but double check anyway, it might make it easier to find a replacement.

In my opinion, and yours being a manual, I don't think 1.4 bar is too high at all. Don't forget they're 206kw and 343nm out of the box! My auto used to get just over 1 bar on sequential. I would only be concerned if your hitting 1.4 bar on the primary alone. Also don't forget you will unlock a bit of extra power as the air cools in the season too. My GTB (both the Gen2 and 3) felt nearly like different animals in the opposing seasons.

When you say you attempted the hose 1 mod, did you mean hose 10? The hose 1 mod is where you insert a restrictor pill into the line to the Intercooler Control Valve. 

Also, if you're thinking you're still hearing a boost leak, check the BOV gasket and the intercooler elbow gaskets. The thing I find strange is when there's an electrical fault it will retard performance rather than gift you more! This reasoning is what makes me think it might be a mechanical problem. 

Thanks for the info Jim, you know everything about these cars! I'm gonna pull it out tmr get the part number and order a replacement, I guess there is no way to test if it's working correctly but to replace it with a known working one.

Hmm I'm just a bit concerned with it not running factory boost on a factory ECU, and I thought there was a boost limit, if I had it set up properly i think I'd want about 1.2-1.3bar as it felt nice. And yeah it hits 1.5bar on primary only and then again on secondary after dropping to zero for a few hundred RPM with the factory controller.

Also figured out what the peak button does on the boost gauge, shows the max boost hit and it's standing on 1.5bar

I have done the hose 10 mode under the BOV which I think causes the primary to run full boost, but my hose 1 mod when I put s restrictor into line 1 (0.8mm I believe it was tight as, could barely move it down the line) did nothing. Maybe the pill isn't in far enough. Beats me, I'll take it out and deal with it after I've got the car working properly. I might also undo the hose 10 mod so the car runs as intended from factory to get everything working and then mod it.

I'll order a replacement BOV gasket with my MAP sensor, my one has definitely seen better days, when you say the elbow gasket do you mean the two pipes on the bottom of the intercooler? I'll see if I can get new ones for them too. True, well when it throws the engine light and says faulty sensor it does lit the car in limp mode and it is not nice to drive, however when it is partially working, but giving off the incorrect output, the car boosts normal but wastegate opens at random boosts. Only thing I can do is replace one thing at a time and if that doesn't work move to the next thing that could cause the issue.

[duncanm]

yeh - I'd be worried about that not hitting boost cut.

 

Sounds like the pressure sensor is disconnected or non functioning.

 

Maybe the changeover valve (swaps sensing from atmosphere to manifold) is the problem -- could be something else worth checking.

 

EDIT: Aha ! -- see http://www.subyclub....solenoid-valve/

 

code 45 is pressure exchange solenoid.  Look there first.

[patrick27s]

yeh - I'd be worried about that not hitting boost cut.
 
Sounds like the pressure sensor is disconnected or non functioning.
 
Maybe the changeover valve (swaps sensing from atmosphere to manifold) is the problem -- could be something else worth checking.
 
EDIT: Aha ! -- see http://www.subyclub....solenoid-valve/
 
code 45 is pressure exchange solenoid.  Look there first.

Well tbh the previous owner of this car had no forking clue, wouldn't surprise me if he's forked with it, he apparently got the ECU tuned at MRT, but it's not a tuneable ECU so I wasn't too worried about it haha

I'll have a look at this changeover valve, any other info on where it is?

Yes I'm getting error code 45. Gonna suss that out first.

Thanks for your help

[duncanm]

labelled MAP Feed Control Solenoid here.

 

 

Let me know if you need a replacement -- I have a spare BBOD I can part out for a decent six pack.

[patrick27s]

labelled MAP Feed Control Solenoid here.
 

 
Let me know if you need a replacement -- I have a spare BBOD I can part out for a decent six pack.

Awesome thanks man, I'll let you know. If I get time this afternoon I might pull it apart and rebuild my BBOD

[duncanm]

yeh - its probably just gummed up.  Hit it with some carb cleaner while cycling it with 12V and make sure all the ports are clean.

[patrick27s]

I tried to clean them before but maybe I did them wrong, do you guys take all the lines off to clean them or do the solenoids just pull out? I'm sure I'll probably figure it out when I take it off.

Also I plan on using Subaru UEC, should be good right?

[patrick27s]

Today I had a look at the solenoid in question, I connected the green plugs and connected to diagnostic mode. My friend and I pulled the BBOD off and turned the key to let the solenoids cycle. All the solenoids except for this one in the BBOD were ticking away and you could feel them ticking, however this one had absolutely nothing, we tried cleaning it out a bit but nothing would work we couldn't get it running.

Looks like the solenoids can't really be swapped out as the wires didn't look like they have plugs, I might look into getting a new (secondhand lol) BBOD from Japan or somewhere, however I believe after reading the info that duncanm posted that it needs to be from a similar rev a-c.

Just to test the MAP sensor I devices to bypass the solenoid and plug it straight to manifold to see if it boosts normally, it was working fine (other than the change over lag which is normal on the new ECU) until my friend noticed the boost gauge was acting a bit strange, it seams to always boost to random figures between 1 bar and 1.5 bar and moves up and down the scale like almost instantly despite the pull feeling the same every single time. I might investigate this with an old school mechanical gauge straight on the manifold and see if maybe the defi box is stuffed or the control module or maybe the gauge. I believe I have some spares that can swap around to see if that fixes them.

If anyone has a known working BBOD and would sell it, hit me up.

Thanks, Pat

[duncanm]

Pat,

 

did you try unplugging it and hitting it with 12V directly?  It might be one of those one's that doesn't cycle in test mode.  Have a good listen to it, if you can hear it softly clicking (more of a dull thud), then its probably gummed up and needs a really good soaking/clean to get working.

 

If its dead - I'm happy to part the solenoid out from my spare Rev-D BBOD.

 

Ok - had a quick look at my spare BBOD. There are three exchange-type solenoids in the Rev-D BBOD (eg: in the above pic, the ECV pressure solenoid is the same device).  They're all hard-wired (ie: need to wires from the BBOD harness along with the solenoid).

 

But they're very simple beasts - just 0V to join two of the three ports, 12V for the other 2/3.

 

In fact - this subaru 14774AA500  "MAP sensor solenoid" I found on the web would do the job fine.

 

 

So - I guess what I'm getting at is that you could find any 3-port solenoid and use that for diagnosis if you need.

 

Either way.. let me know.

[duncanm]

mmm...  better check the solenoid situation in the Rev-D is applicable.. I just dug up some old information I found some time back regarding the differences around the MAP / atmo sensing in the AUDM Rev-D's vs. Rev-B

 

http://www.subyclub....itched-in-bbod/

 

(and get some humour from the missing comments from our long-lost departed SubyDr. Fount of all that is known).

 

Better take a pic of your broken solenoid so I can confirm.

[patrick27s]

Pat,
 
did you try unplugging it and hitting it with 12V directly?  It might be one of those one's that doesn't cycle in test mode.  Have a good listen to it, if you can hear it softly clicking (more of a dull thud), then its probably gummed up and needs a really good soaking/clean to get working.
 
If its dead - I'm happy to part the solenoid out from my spare Rev-D BBOD.
 
Ok - had a quick look at my spare BBOD. There are three exchange-type solenoids in the Rev-D BBOD (eg: in the above pic, the ECV pressure solenoid is the same device).  They're all hard-wired (ie: need to wires from the BBOD harness along with the solenoid).
 
But they're very simple beasts - just 0V to join two of the three ports, 12V for the other 2/3.
 
In fact - this subaru 14774AA500  "MAP sensor solenoid" I found on the web would do the job fine.
 

 
So - I guess what I'm getting at is that you could find any 3-port solenoid and use that for diagnosis if you need.
 
Either way.. let me know.

I might have to try that, how do you go about putting 12v on the solenoids, just some wires from the battery to the 2 pins on the connector?

It's definitely dead. One was gummed up and we got it ticking again, but this one was dead as anything haha.

Yeah that should work in theory, but it won't connect to the factory wiring and may be a pain to install.

I believe you're right about the rev d stuff, my understanding (from your information in the linked posts) is that rev d bbod's and rev a-c is not interchangeable, due to the different location of the map sensor I believe. Either way, there is one sensor that looks identifier to it, I believe it's the furthest to the right in the box, and I think I could make that work by soldering the wires into this one, however I was also considering the option of purchasing a rev a-c BBOD from car being wrecked in Japan or NZ.

However this might take a while to fix and I'm not too fussed about it anymore, I believe my boost gauge is reading incorrectly and I have a few things to install before HVC so I'm gonna focus on them.

[AB501UT!0N]

Love the car Pat and the attention to detail! Are those Zero sports car mats for sale?

[patrick27s]

Love the car Pat and the attention to detail! Are those Zero sports car mats for sale?

Thanks mate, yeah they will be up for sale, I'll pm you

[patrick27s]

So over the weekend I got some stuff done on the car in prep for HVC,

Got the Zerosports canon chopped of the exhaust and installed the fujistubo muffler. Makes the car so much quieter and better than the canon, not my style.

While the car was on the hoist I noticed that I had a full Zerosports exhaust fitted to the car pretty scratched up from the previous owner. The exhaust was a bit weird though, the piping size kept jumping up and down, plan on replacing it soon with a new system.

While the car was on the hoist I also took a look at the condition of a few bushings under the car, most of them were in good condition except for the sway bar bushing and the rear diff mount bushings, sway bar bushings wet in desperate need of some lube, fixed that up and the car feels so different no more squeaks when driving the car.

I originally thought the squeaks was from the struts and I planned on changing them out but it turns out they're pretty fine, so I have a set of gen 3 bilsteins with sti pink springs spare which might sell if there is interest, if not they'll go in the sedan.

The rear diff mounts are gone though, explains the slight clunk coming from the rear of the car when accelerating. So I'll try change them out after HVC. Any tips would be appreciated.

Also fitted the front 4 pot brakes which I got a while ago, ran out of time to do the tears which will hopefully go on Friday before HVC. Haven't really don't too much more than changing brake pads so was a good experience to do, feel really good after bleeding

[Jimbo]

Looking sensational Pat. Well done, looking forward to seeing it!

[patrick27s]

Looking sensational Pat. Well done, looking forward to seeing it!

thanks Jim, hopefully I'll get enough time to get it ready for HVC haha can't wait

[skud19]

hey man clean find. love the white