5 replies to this topic

[timslib]

Hello all! 

I decided to write this wee guide just as a public noteboard for myself and anyone else who may want to do the same thing. It's very specific as a lot of the information isn't relevant for other 6MT swaps, such as a full drivetrain from a GD STi, which is ideal for the BE/BH platform. However, if like me, you picked up a Spec B GT 6MT/R180 combo for stupid cheap, you're not gonna turn it down, unless you're mad.  

There's a several lack of images at the moment thanks to a dead phone. Sorry!

So, I'm gonna separate this in to sections and break each section down for ease. 

First up! Parts list! 

K, this is simple. 

You need the box (mine is the TY856WWDAD - so open front diff, viscous centre and torsen LSD 180 rear)
6 speed flywheel and clutch kit
A GD STi shifter linkage 
An auto gen 3 tailshaft (must be gen 3 and auto!)
Spec B R180 hybrid axles (unless you decide to go with the Suberdave route which is required if you want an R180 AND ABS to function or an R160) 
Front axles (we'll look into this because it's important and I f**ked up)
A speedo solution (we'll look into this shortly also)

I could add a heap of part numbers here but realistically, you get the gist. A lot of crap. 

Right, let's break it down. 

Front CV axles

Okay, so, as I noted earlier, this is important as I did indeed fk up. I ordered gen 4 front shafts under the illusion that they must be the same, right? Lolno. The outer spline (what goes into your spindle) is actually about 10mm short, meaning your nut can't be tightened all the way and thus, is no good. 

One of the correct ways to do it (credit to Jono Wichert for this valuable piece of information) is to convert the gearbox into a male (and no, not once of the operations you keep hearing about). The best way to do this, is source AUTO (apparently autos and 6MT's have an awful lot of cross compatibility) stub axles, CV's and front axles seals to suit whatever box you sourced the rest from (e.g. I got my stubs and CV's from a gen 3 auto, so I ordered front axle seals to suit that). I'll update this once I get my seals and can take pictures. 

One very important factor of this is that it also retains your ABS tone rings. They're necessary for part of the next section..  

A speedo solution

Now, given that the box is from a gen 4, they (Subaru) decided to move to a CANBUS in-car network which meant the removal of the VSS (vehicle speed sensor). So, you can't just slap your VSS in from your 5 speed... 

...or can you? 

No, but you CAN if you speak to your local reputable workshop that knows the Subaru 6 speed and the task you're asking for. You can have a VSS port machined in and a kit fitted to restore mechanical speed sensing. 

Aside from that, there's two solutions available overseas that utilise the existing ABS tone rings to provide you with a VSS signal. 

They are.. 

VSSPro by DCCDPro https://www.dccdpro....product/vsspro/
and..
VSS by MAPDCCD http://mapdccd.com/vss.html

Recommendations vary, I chose to buy the MAPDCCD unit. 

(edited) Notes for lightweight flywheel users

When we fitted the Chromoly Lightweight, the stock flywheel bolts were about 10mm too long. You could get some factory ones and have them machined down (what we did on the lathe) or get some shorter bolts. Anyone have an idea on factory flywheel bolts that are shorter?



I'll add revisions, pics and more information as I go. Thanks. 




 

[Barbbachello]

Can run the gen 4 front hubs to run the gen 4 shafts. Added benefit of bolt in wheel bearings and lower tie rod point for less bump steer.

However you probably will lose ABS as its probably different sensor/tone wheel. It may not be but i dont care lel cos its been deleted from my car.

You can get R180 gen 3 rear hubs made. I'm not sure on the exact process as it seems to be an industry secret, but it seems to be give a workshop R180 GD hubs and a set of gen 3 hubs and some money and they give them back as R180. 

[timslib]

Can run the gen 4 front hubs to run the gen 4 shafts. Added benefit of bolt in wheel bearings and lower tie rod point for less bump steer.

However you probably will lose ABS as its probably different sensor/tone wheel. It may not be but i dont care lel cos its been deleted from my car.

You can get R180 gen 3 rear hubs made. I'm not sure on the exact process as it seems to be an industry secret, but it seems to be give a workshop R180 GD hubs and a set of gen 3 hubs and some money and they give them back as R180. 

I know that would work and it's probably a better option for some people but I'm looking to retain functionality of the tone rings until I get a VSS machined in and about an LSD front diff. 

Heh, I actually know how that's done. But I'm not sayin' nuffink. 

Anywho, fitted the new seals and stubs today. Nice and cozy. 

 

[timslib]

Update on the rear end. 

Potentially dead diff, or incorrect shafts. Putting my vote on dead diff, because with the wheels on the ground and rear end assembled, I'm able to rotate the input yoke on the diff with little resistance, and can't hear anything that might indicate the shafts being incorrect like a jumping gears or something. So, what's dead in there, I don't know. 

May have to go back to a standard R160 rear VLSD config and have my torsen rebuilt or something. 

[timslib]

Votes are in! Incorrect shafts. 

So, the R160 will have to do until I can get me some PROPER hybrid shafts lol. 

[timslib]

Updates, it's all fitted and running. Need to get a return spring for the clutch slave and sort out the wiring because I really couldn't be f**ked after today. 

Everything goes nicely and the Xtreme Chromoly lightweight and the Mantic Stage 2 are a match made in heaven for an EZ30. Love it! We ended up just using an R160 until we decide on a path to fit the R180. Not urgent, as the R160 works well. 

Next update will come with wiring updates and MAPDCCD VSS module.