63 replies to this topic

[timslib]

Hey guys, 

 
Long story short, I have been planning/wishing/hoping that one day, I could jam an EZ30 into my gen 3. There are a lot of easier, already done, and probably more financially viable options (gen 4 Spec.B H6, H6 Outhouse etc etc) but none were really what I wanted. Wagons don't appeal to me, and I'm fond of the way the gen 3 is. That, or mentally disabled. Either way.. 
 
So, after being told to do it by about 100 or so people, my dad and I decided that, after some research here and there, we could do it. 
 
After a little while, we acquired the required (  ) EZ30D from a wrecked Outback.   

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We put the engine on the engine stand and did an inspection. Despite some average looking oil (bit dark but nothing else), the clearances on the engine and timing hardware looked good. 

Time to drop the boring EJ251 and 4EAT combo out. 

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_{Gettin' ready for it.} 
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_Ew. 
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_Yay!
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All nice and clean now!
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Next up, we had to start getting wiring. At this stage, I had little to no experience with physical Subaru communications systems. So naturally, we took the primary bulkhead harness with the dash harness, engine harness, and the last one we got was the front main harness, which is for the fans, lights, and ABS system as well as fusing. 
 
After that, I got the transmission stuff from a friend. The box is a 5MT Dual Range. Standard transmission conversion kit with the stuff and like. 
 
So the total list of parts looks like this:
 
- EZ30D with all accessories
- 5MT conversion kit (gearbox, shafts, clutch + fly, primary and slave cylinders with lines, clutch and brake peddle, rear diff and crossmembers)
- Full 02 Outback H6 wiring harness (dash loom, bulkhead loom, engine loom and front loom)
- ECU with matching Immobiliser and key transponder (MUST ALL BE MATCHED)
- BFM H6 cluster (attached images of pre-done cluster and expectations)
- Manual interior trim (only one piece has to be changed, lol)
- Outback ABS Pump and module to match harness
- H6 radiator and lines
- H6 fans (these are SLIMMER and more powerful fans than the EJ25 ones, which will not fit with the EZ30 installed)
 
...and to contrast how big of a job this is, I've probably forgotten a fair bit. I honestly don't know if it would even be easier to keep the auto, lol. 

 

EDIT:

 

I decided to finally begin with small tid-bits of information and such to try and help those of you after info. 

I'll start with..

THE GUIDE TO THE END OF YOUR LIFE (OR AN ENGINE CONVERSION)

Part 1. Fittin' stuff.

1a. Mounting.

So, first things first. Let's get it clear that, mechanically, this is easy. The EZ30 uses the same engine mounts as the EJ engines, make a swap fairly simply. One thing I've noticed is often missed, is that the Outback chassis uses 25x40mm steel bars bolted to the chassis rails to make the k-frame sit lower due to the EZ's bulk. These use the same bolts that hold the k-frame to the chassis, but are longer from the Outback to accommodate. 

 

With the spacers in:
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And without:
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1b. Gearboxes.

If it fits on an EJ, it fits on the EZ. End o' story. Same said with flywheels and clutches. 
 

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Part 2. Differences between the Liberty 2.5 and the 3.0 

Firstly, we'll look at the primary differences between the engines. The EJ251 and EZ30D don't really share anything other than, they are both boxers and they both have a cast intake (and even THAT is difference on the EZ). The EZ uses a variable geometry intake (only applicable to 1st gen EZ) which the ECU is trained to take advantage of using low and high RPM modes. The changeover occurs around 3,500RPM-3,750RPM. The EZ also has a 24 valve, quad-cam, chain-driven valvetrain as opposed to the EJ251's 16 valve twin-cam, belt driven valvetrain. Other small differences include top-feed injectors on the EZ as opposed to the EJ25's side-feed injectors. The EJ25 also uses a coil pack with leads as opposed to the EZ using a coil-over-spark config. 

Part 3. The nightmare. Okay, it's not THAT bad but it is wiring. (Not needed for H6 AT swaps)

 

The main bulkhead

 

Not much to be said here, really. This is the main piece of wiring that will have to be swapped. 

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The inhibitor harness

Ironically, there's one main piece of wiring primarily responsible for making sure the car can run, and that's a small loom that you'll find connected to the shifter module on the side of the auto gearbox. This is called the inhibitor harness. I'm not going to screw around trying to explain it, just do this. People call the plug you'll be referencing plug "T3" but it has "B2" printed on the side. The layout can be found in the A/T Control System for the 6-cylinder engine with/without VDC (I used page WI-53). 

So, bridge wires found on pins 1 and 4, following the pin out on the service manual section I've attached. This will make the car start. 

(remind me to check the power wire for the VSS - it has 5 volts)

That's pretty much it.

The VSS for manual transmissions and gauge cluster wiring for it

The VSS is a small thingy attached the side of the 5MT Subaru gearbox. It has three pins, signal, power (+5Vdc) and ground. The ground can be attached to the nearest bolt, whereas the power has to be attached to a wire on the inhibitor harness (due to edit). The signal, I personally recommend, should be run directly up through the firewall and connected to the cluster. 

 

When I say that, you're probably thinking "Well Tim, that's just dandy. WHERE?! THE INTERNET SAID PIN 13 ON CONNECTOR i10 AND IT'S WRONG.   " That's because that is exactly what happened to me because I was following a USDM forum and they have different looms. Easy enough. On that page we were referencing for the inhibitor harness, it shows a connector called "A: i10 (GREEN)". This is a gauge cluster connector on the pretty new wiring you've painfully installed. Pin 11 (eleven) on connector i10 (or as I eloquently called it, "the big c**t") is used for the VSS on an MT vehicle. 

And that should do it!

_{That's a purdy lookin' cluster..}

The transmission control unit

Chuck it out. 

That ends the guide for now! If there's any questions, please post or message and I'll try to help! 
 

After all that, let's look at where the project is at the moment. Please let me know if the images aren't working and I'll fix it up. Images embedded now. 

 

Yes, I have to go through and add descriptions everywhere haha.

 

Odds are, I'll add to this post a lot and hopefully answer any of your questions! thanks yo!

And some extra pics for your perusal. I've gone through and added a couple. 
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Attached Files

•  dash.JPG   99.64KB   3 downloads

[crjohnson]

Nice sounding build! Do you have the pictures lying aroudn somewhere? I was close to doing an ez30r into my gen3 outback, then I was spewing I didn't buy the exact car i wanted that popped up for sale, THEN i bought a gen4 liberty wagon.. 

 

Were you ever able to tune the ez30d? 

[timslib]

Nice sounding build! Do you have the pictures lying aroudn somewhere? I was close to doing an ez30r into my gen3 outback, then I was spewing I didn't buy the exact car i wanted that popped up for sale, THEN i bought a gen4 liberty wagon.. 

 

Were you ever able to tune the ez30d? 

I do, I can fish them out haha! 

Nah, never really bothered on the stock ECU, it's since been turbocharged and I'm in the process of installing a Link ECU instead haha

[allpaw4]

Bout time this came back. Shame we lost all the banter and assorted posts...

Cheers,
Ben

[El_Freddo]

Ooh, looking forward to pics of this, even though I’ve probably seen them at some point in the past!

Cheers

Bennie

[RX25SE]

Yep, pics would be awesome.

Attached Files

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[timslib]

Updated to include some pics, need to pull my old hard drive from my PC to get the rest out 

Cheers all

[allpaw4]

Nice. Interesting about the spacers, but makes sense due to legal and/or safety requirements to have a certain amount of head room between bonnet and the engine. Can't recall what the measurement is, but it was recently changed (read: in the last 10 years sometime).

[timslib]

Also, another note re: spacers and steering.

You will need the OUTBACK column and uni joint if you run the spacers. 

Just, trust me on that.

[timslib]

Fixed the pictures.  

[allpaw4]

Timmah! You haven't fixed them properly, you need to add the IMG references for them to auto load. As it stands we need to click each one to open it... We like our slackness ok!

Cheers,
Ben

[timslib]

Alright, alright. I'll make it lazy friendly. Jeeeezzzz.

I'll actually add more pics here.

[timslib]

For those wondering, here's a parts list. 
 

Exterior

K2Gear Type F front bumper

STi by Enkei 18x7.5 wheels Rays/Volk Racing TE37SL Saga 18x8.5+45

Legacy B4 RS30 grille

Genuine Syms wing

Subaru rear spats

Custom GR Hood scoop graft

Factory tinted Legacy rear garnish

JDM HID headlights with levelling system (M-Tech D2R HID's, PIAA Hyper Arros)

Complete LED conversion (indicators, parkers, tails)

 

Interior

Custom reupholstered Recaro seats

Heritage leather door cards

Gen 3 Blitzen sedan leather rear seats

B4 silver interior trim

Red Stitched leather shift boot

Stitched leather console lid

White HVAC display mod

Outback H6/B4 BFM cluster

Dual USB's in centre console (for Apple Carplay)

Headlight leveller switch

Red/white lighting scheme

Custom twin 52mm gauge pod on top of dash

GaugeArt CAN Gauge with LinkECU fascia - 52mm

Defi Racer Gauge 52mm - boost

Defi DIN Gauge

 

 

Mechanical

EZ30D engine swap

Custom 2" inch turbo headers

Precision 6262 T3/V-band ball bearing turbo w/ T51 mod

Turbosmart Hypergate GenV 45mm

3" dump pipe and mid pipe with 100 cel cat

Spec GT 6MT/Torsen LSD R180

Mantic Stage 2 trash clutch, is now Exedy Sports Tuff HD

Xtreme Competition lightened flywheel

HKS Hi-Power Silent diffback

Custom billet fuel rails

Radium MPR

Continental Flex Fuel sensor

Motorsport IAT

GM 3 bar MAP

Link CAN-Lambda module

Bosch LSU4.9 Wideband

Probably about 20 Raceworks fittings lol

MAC 4 port boost controller (AN4 braided lines)

Raceworks AN6 fuel lines

Link G4+ WRX9+ plug-in

Bosch 985cc injectors

T.I. Auto 460 pump

 

 

Handling

326mm Brembo front brakes, Dixcel Type RA pads, Goodridge braided lines

316mm Brembo rear brakes, DBA T3 4000 series rotors, Dixcel Type RA pads, Goodridge braided lines

SuperPro TRC0002 bump steer correction kit

Cusco 18mm rear sway bar

Cusco Carbon Fibre strut brace

SuperPro bushes (front LCAs and sway bar bushes)

B4 alloy arm upgrade

A'pexi World Sport N1 Coilovers

Potenza RE003 (225/40/R18)

Ganador Titan Tower bar

 

Audio

Pioneer AVIC-F960DAB

Alpine PDX-F4

Audison bitOne

MTX TX8652's

Stinger RCA cable

Car Builders deadener in doors and boot

[Barbbachello]

You using rear brake adaptors or S401/TBSTi backing plates?

[timslib]

You using rear brake adaptors or S401/TBSTi backing plates?

Buggered if I can remember how the hell we did it, but we used a GD WRX backing plate and modified it to suit the gen 3 hub/handbrake assembly. It's a bit hacky but it works and has been faultless for 5 years lol

[Barbbachello]

If you happen to have any pics of that id be very interested. Unsurprisingly 401/TB STi plates are thin on the ground

[timslib]

If you happen to have any pics of that id be very interested. Unsurprisingly 401/TB STi plates are thin on the ground

Couldn't find any pics of how we did it, but I know we simply took the GD WRX backplate, enlarged the hole for the main hub and elongated the bolt holes of the GD backplate to allow the hub to be bolted in. 

I'll probably disassemble the rear end at a later date and get some pics for the boys. 

[timslib]

Right, so I call this a build thread without it even having build details. 

So, let's start from the top, shall we?

Quite recently, the clutch (a lovely Mantic..) let go and that led to us getting some real upgrades underway. 

Let's have a look at how that went, eh? 

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Mmm, yes, clutch is in good nick. 

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So, that's cooked. The friction plate failed badly and released one of the springs. 

Here is our gorgeous new Japanese pink bits to replace that thing. 

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Sorry if the pic is upside down. 

And fitted! 

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So, that's the first part of the project down.. but it's never quite that simple, is it? 

And so begins the project of a full set of upgrades, custom parts and more... 





 

[timslib]

Next up, removed all the existing charge pipes, turbo and the intake manifold, and got to work prepping for paint. That was one thing that seriously let this bay down, was how not nice it looked. Sanded all the charge pipes and stripped the old paint off the turbo. As for the intake manifold, I had a spare one which I did an EGR delete, induction valve delete (that flap thing that 30D manifolds have) and made block-off plates. 

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Then, with that all done, masked off anything I didn't want painted, got some Norglass epoxy coat in black and got to work on everything. 

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Then, got to work reassembling everything, and readying up to install it all. 

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All ready to go and looking very dapper in gloss black! The Turbosmart Gen V 45mm all suited up in it's little black cover. Not that you can actually see it hahaha. 

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Intake manifold reinstalled. Looking killer! 

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Most of the bay back together. Hell yeah! But yet so much work to do. 

After this, essentially, I had to rebuild the intake manifold harness to integrate the new motorsport IAT, flex fuel sensor, new 3 bar MAP, MAC boost control solenoid, and retain the few OE pieces I was retaining. 


 

[El_Freddo]

Nice work on the clutch. Here’s mine from my NA EJ22 L series



The paint work is neat! Did it take much time to prep the intake for paint? I’m looking at doing mine for a project that I’m building.

Good effort on the work, great to see some pics!!

Cheers

Bennie