63 replies to this topic

[timslib]

Update, one head is shimmed and cams are in. The clearances are nice and tight, Subaru are kind enough to give you a total of .10 total play on the  shims (0.20 +.04 or -.06 for intake, 0.25 +/- .05 for exhaust) so you can get away with a bit. Thankfully, got a few spare shims so it's no worries. 

 

Spinning the cam with 170lb/mm of force is a PRICK. Haha. No valve float here, boys! 

 

Also, painted the parcel shelf plastics black to refresh them, much nicer. 

[El_Freddo]

Sounds like a pile of fun Tim. And yes, I’m being sarcastic!

Glad you’ve got two to do??

Cheers

Bennie

[allpaw4]

Cannot wait to see this in the flesh Timmy!

[timslib]

EZ30 information update time (for those who know where to look... )

 

So, the second head was being a bitch. We had some super, SUPER tight clearances (0.06mm on 2 buckets - 3/5th's of fk all!) whereas on the exhaust cam, we had a couple as big as 0.75mm! Nearly 1mm of clearance!

 

Anyway, a visit to Head2Head in Clayton and rummaging through his shim collection (super duper nice guy, highly recommend a visit and a chat before he retires. Don't be a dick and he'll gladly tell you a lot), and we got it done. Close to smack bang in the middle of spec for int/ext on all accounts.

 

Here's where the info starts.

 

The shims for the EZ30D are a 32mm diameter disc with a thickness anywhere between 2.00mm and 3.1mm. Subaru only goes upto 2.88mm in spec, but thankfully, our Nissan brethren and their RB25DET Neo motor use the EXACT same buckets! How handy! That's not even the  good part..

 

No, no, see the good part is that our good friends at Supertech, have discovered that the EZ30 (1st gen only) ALSO shares the same bucket with the world renowned VR38DETT. Yes, the 3.8L V6, twin turbo Nissan GT-R power plant. And what does THAT mean?

We, as first gen EZ owners, are able to use the widely available shim-less buckets from the VR38 in our motors.

 

And, on top of that, due to our simplistic cam design (despite the fact that the stock cams are literally sintered lobes on a steel tube, lol), are able READILY able to be made by your local custom cam manufacturer without worrying about fancy AVLS deletes like the 30R fellers.

 

It turns out that the rubbish single port heads, may actually turn out to the be the ideal solution for boosted applications, due to the availability of head parts (and a set of cams not costing nearly $10,000 - looking at you, Kelford). An estimation of cam pricing would be around $2,200 given custom design, grind and all the associated goodies like head flow testing etc. A fully built set of 30D heads is looking to be running me about $5,000, incl. cams, springs, retainers, valves, valve seats/guides/stem seals and flow bench testing.

 

More to come on that later on, but for now, the stock motor is ready to reassemble and get thrown back in the car.

 

Cheers.

[allpaw4]

Juicy info there Tim! Can't wait.

Cheers,
Ben

[El_Freddo]

You’re like a kid in a candy store Tim! Gotta love it when you come across fair dinkum ppl like the fella at Head2Head! I bet you could still be there chatting to him now!

Good update, super juicy!

Cheers

Bennie

[RX25SE]

I really like where this is going....

 

 

 

 

We, as first gen EZ owners, are able to use the widely available shim-less buckets from the VR38 in our motors.

 

Does 'shim-less bucket' mean different buckets are available with essentially different thickness tops, or that they are a hydraulic bucket?

I'm guessing the former, due to oil supply.

[Barbbachello]

The first option. Shim and bucket are 1 piece

[RX25SE]

Ahh right. Cheers.

[timslib]

What Nick said. 1st option is exactly what they are.

 

Gonna see how the factory cams go with some boost worth talking about and see how we go.

[timslib]

Howdy fellers,

God, there is a shit load that has happened since I last reported in.

To bullet point it

• Motor is back in, there was dramas regarding sealing the front cover. All done now.
• S# buttons work, I'm trying to find a way to make a DIY that's actually simple enough for people to follow along, however... not looking good. It's not easy lol.
• We have a road tune!!! On E85. It's not perfect but it'll do. 3-4psi so far.
• Bunch of body work done, still some to do.
• Brand new carpets, freshly dyed.
• Got me a shiny nice Ganador strut bar
• Installed some wicked red seatbelts (+10kw easily)

Currently on the burners;

 

• Fitting the alloy trailing arms I bought from Nick, fairly easy so far. You could easily adapt these to use gen 3 ABS with a couple of drill bits, a tap and some patience. Read below for more info on that.
• Painting the brake calipers.

And I got some new floor mats, which finished it all off nicely. Big thanks to Fitmint Auto for that.

 

Got stranded the other day as a result of a FYUCKED starter power cable that I did as a young person. Good job, idiot. Lol.

 

Re: alloy trails, they're actually quite easy to fit. There's 2 things of note that I've found:
1. The sway bar end-links attach to a separate bracket that may or may not come with the arms, if you find some for sale. You could fabricate a couple with some decent thickness angle steel which I'm doing tomorrow.

2. The bolts for the bearing/hub will need to be about 20mm longer. I bought these ones expecting to need to trim them down but no such cutting was required. If you're new to doing this sort of work - MAKE SURE YOU BUY GRADE 8.8 HARDWARE OR HIGHER. Common sense for some, not all. You do not want these bolts letting go.

 

Overall, no real worries. Couple of custom parts and some more bolts and we'll be back on track.

 

Pics attached of happenings.

 

Carpet before:  334700773_1179228836093696_1936473814683738681_n.jpg   299.86KB   1 downloads

 

Carpet after:  334588851_200525939258171_5197664800674582759_n.jpg   293.27KB   1 downloads

 

Engine bay:  329255470_1205393660081341_3184933043320592663_n.jpg   208.8KB   1 downloads **not current but close enough**

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[allpaw4]

Veddy nice there Tim. Keep us posted! What was the weight difference in the rear arms again?

Cheers,
Ben

[timslib]

Veddy nice there Tim. Keep us posted! What was the weight difference in the rear arms again?

Cheers,
Ben

The stock arms weighed in around 9kg on the scales, and the ally arms half, 4.5kg.

[timslib]

For those of you watching, I've pretty much all but deleted myself from Twitfacestagram, just can't be forked with the amount of crap on there anymore, plus the drama and shit. It was good for business but really, I'm not going to see much of a loss.

 

Update on the Lib. Basically, since last update, it's been driven a couple times and needs a few maintenance items, namely front rotors and wheel bearings, but that's mostly it.

 

The aero is coming along, albeit slowly. The spats are in undercoat, and the skirts just need a touch-up. The bonnet is getting brazed as our solution of gluing the scoop on with epoxy did not work, and that will need paint. The wing, pretty much needs a small touch up and that can get fitted.

 

I need to take the front cover off the engine and have a look at the guides, for context, it's seeming that the stiffer valve springs (which I've been told several times by the guy who sold them to me, who *definitely* doesn't have a vested interest in them being faultess, is not causing it) are causing chain slap. I'll look into that. Can't say much more.

 

Still needs a tune.

[allpaw4]

Cant wait to see this driving full time again Tim! Hopefully you manage to find some cheaper rotors, Brembo ones are not cheap, especially if going for something like DBA 4000 series.

When you say brazing, you mean like oxy, or using a different process? Shame the epoxy didn't work!
Looking forward to photos once its all back together and painted!

Nah, no vested interest at all... Hopefully the cause is easily found! Keep us posted Tim!

Cheers,
Ben

[timslib]

Haha, me too man, me too. I miss driving that shitbox. Credit to it - it never failed me. Except for that time that the valves fell out... that was fun lol!

 

They're not too badly priced, I have contacts with parts suppliers who can get them at a good price for me.  

 

Brazing with pot metal. Caswell sell the solution for it. One of the few solutions to joining dissimilar metals. It's similar to brazing with oxy but lower temp. Yeah, I was shattered to see the join lines haha. 

 

Will do, hoping to make some more progress soon. 

[allpaw4]

I'm guessing braze it then coat it in bog to cover any nasties that brazing always leaves behind?

[El_Freddo]

Going well on the crude street tune and the low boost?

I hope the chain slap turns out to be nothing. Surely others running this setup would know more about this.

Cheers

Bennie

[timslib]

I'm guessing braze it then coat it in bog to cover any nasties that brazing always leaves behind?

Brazing didn't go so well. The temps required to braze are way too high, caused minor warpage. Fixed that and we ended up glassing it.

[timslib]

Going well on the crude street tune and the low boost?

I hope the chain slap turns out to be nothing. Surely others running this setup would know more about this.

Cheers

Bennie

Yeah, pretty good actually! It's funny driving it around - ask a Facebook expert and I'm sure they'd let me know that my car is about to be explode. Lol.

 

A fix is done, I'll write more about it once I've driven the car more to confirm it works for longer than 5 minutes, lol.

 

Cheers mate.