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Brand 2nd-hand 1999 Liberty


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#181 Morgan

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Posted 08 November 2009 - 11:53 AM

Ive done mine. I originally did them black but eventually they just got crap all over them and looked no different. So i got adventurous and did the callipers gold - but left the hubs black.
Looks ok with the green IMO. I know its not to the taste of many people on here but meh!

Before
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Black
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Gold
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Never the less it looks better than rust :)

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#182 Merlin01

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Posted 08 November 2009 - 12:05 PM

Ive done mine. I originally did them black but eventually they just got crap all over them and looked no different. So i got adventurous and did the callipers gold - but left the hubs black.
Looks ok with the green IMO. I know its not to the taste of many people on here but meh!
Never the less it looks better than rust :)

Still love those wheels Morgan! B)
Did you go with caliper paint or the enamel method?
CruisN's look glossy = nice finish. Does the caliper paint turn out the same? Deep colour, baked look..?

#183 Morgan

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Posted 08 November 2009 - 12:11 PM

I used engine enamel. Still resists in hot temps but not as expensive. You'll also have to stock up on degreaser! That stuff is incredible!! Especially if you are doing your hubs as well, you'll need at least 2 cans. Another tip, set aside a whole day to do it! If you want to do a good job it'll take a good whole day to get them all done

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#184 Merlin01

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Posted 08 November 2009 - 12:20 PM

Thanks for the tip!! So engine enamel also requires no priming? I just don't want to go in gung-ho and have it all break off in the not to distant future... Would you recommend complete disassembly? Take everything off? (That kinda scares me as I've never even changed pads before) :blush: Axle stands x 4 to do them all at once???

#185 Ericmcg

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Posted 08 November 2009 - 12:28 PM

I did'nt take mine apart, once you prep the area properly mask off what needs to be masked and take your time you can do the job without taking anything off exept the wheels. Plus its best to do the job in several thin coats of paint, this gives a more hard wearing and less likely to chip finish.
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#186 Morgan

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Posted 08 November 2009 - 12:40 PM

I did front 2 first.

-Lift up car
-Lay down old sheet under car so that any crap that falls/spills will be caught
-Take off wheels
-Half take off calliper (single bolt so that it flips up) using 12mm (front) and 14mm (rear) sockets <-from memory!!! Dont quote me!!!!
-Take out pads and brackets
-Using G clamp, squeeze in hydrolic thinggys until flush with calliper (I did this so there is minimal fuss when putting pads back in, but it means you will have no brakes when you start driving again. Pump the pedal in a few times and they will come back to you!)

-To achieve best & smoothest results, clean until spotless using sandpaper, rags, degreaser, toothbrush, steel wool or anything else that feels good. Ie, make sure there is bare metal all the way around the hub/callliper before painting - any rust spots will result in slightly raised and uneven paint at the end!
-For front, put car into neutral so that you can spin the axle as you work so that you have easy access to all sides
-For rear, take hand brake off (Obviously, dont do both at the same time otherwise your car might go walkies!)
-Wait until dry before spraying (paint wont stick to greasy metal i assume)

For hub painting
-Mask disks
-Cover up everytihng else so that all is showing is the part you want to paint
-Lightly spray first coat of enamel - there is a technique here; ask if you are unsure
-Wait to dry - start on other side of car

For calliper painting
-Wedge in rags/towels everywhere so that all off-spray wont get anywhere you dont want - make sure anything else you have sprayed (eg. hubs) are dry otherwise they will get fluffy from the towels - speaking from my impatient experience!!
-Lightly spray first coat of enamel

Coats usually take between 20-40 mins to dry depending on how much sun is shining and where you are doing it.

-Once dry, spray second coat and repeat until you have completely coated and it is smooth.
-Wait until dry before putting wheels back on.




Didnt get to take many step by step photos as my hands were orange the whole time coz there was so much dust but heres a few

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And some of my mates doing one of their gen3's.

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He's got a blue and white theme going on (blue personalised plates, etc). Though what we did that day is really hard to see coz of his spider rims!

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#187 Ericmcg

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Posted 08 November 2009 - 12:57 PM

I did'nt spray mine, i used a brush with the caliper paint, takes time but less masking...
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#188 Merlin01

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Posted 08 November 2009 - 01:44 PM

I did front 2 first.

Thanks for the detailed post Morgan. +1
Edit- BTW, that first pic with the two jacks scares the hell out of me!!!! :blink:

I did'nt spray mine, i used a brush with the caliper paint, takes time but less masking...

Did you have to take your pads out when doing it with a brush??

#189 Ericmcg

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Posted 08 November 2009 - 01:48 PM

Thanks for the detailed post Morgan. +1


Did you have to take your pads out when doing it with a brush??


No, once you keep the paint on the metal parts all is good. Just be careful around the bleed nipples and any other rubber parts and you will be fine
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#190 Morgan

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Posted 08 November 2009 - 02:06 PM

Edit- BTW, that first pic with the two jacks scares the hell out of me!!!! :blink:


Haha yea i was very cautious to start with but with the weight of the car and keeping the hand brake on it'll take a fair push to knock it over. You can see with my mates gen3 we had the 2 jacks but also some reinforcement 'stilts'?? to save it if anything came crashing down. We had no problems though :)

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#191 Delete This Account

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Posted 08 November 2009 - 02:10 PM

two jacks is alright for this job as your not going under the car!

#192 RX25SE

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Posted 08 November 2009 - 02:38 PM

that first pic with the two jacks scares the hell out of me!!!! :blink:

Me too.




two jacks is alright for this job as your not going under the car!


Tom,
Don't fool yourself.
NEVER get any part of your body under a car without jack stands. It's not worth the risk.

A good mates brother was killed a week before Christmas when the camper trailer he was working on came down on top of him. His wife found his body when he didn't come in for lunch.
He left behind two small children.

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#193 buzzda

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Posted 08 November 2009 - 02:57 PM

This is what can happen to scissor jacks

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personally I use trolley jacks (with stands aswell)...

Jase is right, NOT WORTH THE RISK

I'd really hate for me young fella to find me squashed

#194 Merlin01

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Posted 08 November 2009 - 02:58 PM

I was just scared about what would happen to the undercarriage IF it came down without wheels on it...
For me it just screams potential drama!! $30 for a pair of axle stands sounds good to me!!

#195 Alex

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Posted 08 November 2009 - 04:18 PM

HD ratchet axle stands (x4) and 2 tonne trolley jacks (x2) is how I roll. I agree with the sentiments of others. Scissor jacks are extremely dangerous. Awesome pic Mr. Buzz. Invest in some good (safe) equipment before undertaking any sort of job that involves taking the weight of the car. Merlin. You are correct about damage too. Not exactly something you'd be covered by insurance for....

#196 buzzda

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Posted 08 November 2009 - 04:53 PM

I agree with the sentiments of others. Scissor jacks are extremely dangerous. Awesome pic Mr. Buzz.


Hopefully will open eyes, to the shittiness of these jacks.

If anyones wondering, thats a 2.5t scissor jack.

It was under the front of the B4 when it did that.... lucky for me I hadn't taken any wheels off and wasn't under it.

#197 CRUISN

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Posted 08 November 2009 - 08:18 PM

IMO spray paint is crap for calipers as the paint is just too thin, as one slight knock and it chips. I always use the small tin of enamel and paint the caliper using a small brush. Gives a thicker coat and is much more durable. The Killrust enamel needs no primer. I did it once to see, but not needed. Have to do the missus car asap.

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#198 Merlin01

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Posted 08 November 2009 - 09:31 PM

Thanks for clearing that up. What colour are your calipers?

#199 CRUISN

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Posted 08 November 2009 - 09:35 PM

Gloss black mate as per pic on page 9. Looks neat, doesnt stand out and goes with all color cars. Im guilty of the rice red before, but I still think that the red against the white car looked good. ;) Wifes GT will be getting black.

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#200 Merlin01

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Posted 11 November 2009 - 09:52 AM

Just got back from an interval 1 service at 162000 Kms. Two problems they (Eblens Subaru S.A.) brought to my attention; 1) RHR Shock absorber leaking - needs to be replaced: Can I do this myself?? Suggestions for an after-market suitable brand that's close to stock spec.? They quoted me around $300 for a replacement and around $150 to fit it. 2) Exhaust leak from front engine Y-Pipe: They said they'd have to take off the heat shroud (welded on) to pin-point the leak and then see if it's able to be re-welded OR replace the pipe. Once I queried him on cost he said it looks like this model has independent Left/Right pipes back to the Cat. but I'd be looking at around $900 to replace them plus labour. Suggestions for remedies? Second hand/wrecker - After-market new - Find a mate with a welder and go gung-ho???




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