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2000 Liberty Sedan STI conversion


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#381 vicelore

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Posted 14 September 2012 - 09:26 AM

All the green plugs are taken care of. It was a tin top 22a relay i had to grab off the STI .. Im thinking after reading some the 3 pin one may be the cig lighter but ill have to try tonight when i get home..

#382 bobbyjimmy

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Posted 14 September 2012 - 11:12 AM

3rd picture, lowest plug goes into the "jigger" mounted on the lower dash piece, under the steering column - has something to do with the power windows I think.

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#383 allpaw4

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Posted 14 September 2012 - 01:05 PM

As far as I remember, you'll need to unplug the black one next to the green one as well. I think the black one is write access to the ECU. Have a look through the DIYs regarding things like ECU tuning/resets, I think there was more info there on what the black/green plugs did.

Cheers,
Ben

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#384 Matt

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Posted 14 September 2012 - 01:09 PM

The DCCD controller you said youve fitted from the STi cut, was it an aftermarket unit? As the stock wont work without lots of retrofitting etc? Or so ive been told

#385 vicelore

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Posted 14 September 2012 - 01:27 PM

Got onto AMAuto and know what they are all for now.. the three connectors ontop the support need to be disconnect as they are for tuning.

Big black one is used for scanning.

The big white on under the fuse box is a spare for Jap cars.

The three pin is for the power windows and goes to a resistor on the inside of the steering colum surround.

And the one near heater pipe is a mystery to all of human race.. SO im just gonna leave it as is..

With regard to the DCCD im using the stock computer.. AMAuto said it would work straight away.. He even wired in the switch for me.. As for what he did to it i have no idea.

Any ways time to put the whole dash back on and get on with getting the engine in tonight.

#386 Matt

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Posted 14 September 2012 - 01:35 PM

Oh mk maybe they do something different now? as they said to me that without the sensors and shit hooked in it wont work properly?

Hence why i got a dccdpro

#387 vicelore

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Posted 15 September 2012 - 03:44 PM

hey guys.. currently pulling my 207 from the half cut and having big issues undoing the 2 17ml bolts holding the gbox xmember in.. they are super tight, iv been using a 30 cm breaker bar and now iv just destroyed the bolts.. ANy advise ?? is it possible to pull the engine and b box out wihtout removing the x members and ill deal with the bolts when iv got the engine box out the cut.. thanks allot Vice

#388 Jovi

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Posted 15 September 2012 - 04:39 PM

use rattle gun...and also yes i undid the lower control arms from the body left the x member and all intackt...
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#389 CodeBurn3r

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Posted 17 September 2012 - 08:28 AM

doing any work this week A/H mate?
i may be able to give you a hand..
ams: "Can't live with them, can't throw rocks at them."

#390 vicelore

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Posted 20 September 2012 - 11:14 AM

Sorry mate been away in NSW all week with work, Ill be working on it all weekend if you have some spare time ? Im more than happy to supply the meat on the spit and some beers..

Cheers !!

OH and PS i couldnt get the bolts off the xmember they just ended up rounding so i ended up cutting the Posted Image'ing thing off the body with a grinder as it was giving me the shits.

#391 CodeBurn3r

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Posted 20 September 2012 - 02:06 PM

ahahah

I might be free 2moz.. i have a RDO and im just going to be fixing the lil annoying things on the car.. let me know champ.. PM for Mobile number ;)
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#392 vicelore

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Posted 24 September 2012 - 07:31 AM

So got a bit done over the weekend..

Went about finishing off all the wiring in the cabin and all is in and well.. Have left some of the interior panels in as i want to test first but apart from that its ready to drive...

After that i went about freeing the engine and G box from the cut..

This seemed pretty easy after i had laid under the car for half a hour and planned how i was going to seperate the sub frame from the body..

Anyways there is only around 12 bolts holding it together, ANd after purchasing a breaker bar all but 6 bolts remained. The 6 bolts that where kiling me where 4 for the engine cross member and 2 for the g box cross member.. After multiple attempts from 3 diferent guys the bolts where destroyed and it was time for a trip to masters to pick up a new grinder and 3 discs and some cutting to start..

Having never used a grinder before it was a bit of a learning time for me.. Espually since i started in a t shirt with shorts.. Learnt that lesson there straight off the bat..
End result below :) The guy in the pics is my brother in law btw..

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SO this is what im now left with.. Ready for the new cross members to be bolted on and some cleaning / servicing to happen next..

One thing i did notice was that there wasnt any b box oil cooler .. ( was expecting one after being told it was a RA STI..

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Cheers guys !!

#393 Matt

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Posted 24 September 2012 - 07:48 AM

Its coming along!! Man you really took to that gearbox x member lol...got another spare to use in its place?

Is that an aftermarket boost controller? If do are you going back to stock boost control?

And wheres the airflow meter? Im looking but i cant see one on the pieced together intake?

#394 vicelore

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Posted 24 September 2012 - 07:57 AM

LOL yea.. As i said i was learning witht the grinder :)

Hrm.. not really the response i was after there lol.. I was pretty sure i could use the lib gbox cross member ?? I was told i needed a new engine one so i sourced a auto B4 one.. but thought i could use the lib gbox one :(

The engine did have a aftermarket HKS one but i had it removed from the loom as im going to replace with non HKS new one..

Air flow meter.. no idea what that even is..

#395 Matt

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Posted 24 September 2012 - 09:19 AM

Id just use stock boost control if you can? Its a lot better and safer ;) just stick a 3 port on it for better spool

I dunno about the gearbox members...you probably can re use yours? But im not certain?

There should be an airflow sensor with a plug connected to it after the air filter and before it goes into the red intake pipe before the turbo? Usually mounted into the aftermarket intake pipe if its there?

Unless its got an aftermarket ecu?

#396 vicelore

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Posted 24 September 2012 - 10:29 AM

Used to have the standard CSU with a HKS system piggy backed on top.. I had it all removed..

Ill have a look around for it.. I may of removed it .. I havent tackled any of the engine wiring yet.. Was going to take that on when the engines in its spot.

Cheers Vice.

#397 aekOne

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Posted 25 September 2012 - 01:59 AM

Have you still got the piggyback ecu mate?

That intake looks like the HKS unit (but modified) with MAF delete for MAP sensor tuned cars.

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#398 vicelore

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Posted 25 September 2012 - 07:22 AM

I do have the ECU aek.. But wasnt going to use it as i herd no one in VIC could tune it..

Can you let me know what this means in simple terms ?

"That intake looks like the HKS unit (but modified) with MAF delete for MAP sensor tuned cars.'
I take it your talking about all the small blue tubing ? non of that looked standard to me.. Am i going to need to purchase a new intake ?
Maybe i need to google what a map sensor tuned car is ..... Dosent sound good to me..
My plan with the engine was to take things back to as close to stock as possible then mod up from there. As im not sure how good / tuneable all the HKS gear is ( was told not very tunable in VIC)

Thanks again. Vice

#399 Adam

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Posted 25 September 2012 - 08:42 AM

Basically, for the factory ECU, there should be a (MAP) sensor mounted between the air filter, and the (in your case) red silicon tubing before the turbo.It measures air flow (I think)

I'd dare say the plug is still in the loom for it so maybe you just need to source the sensor. Hard to tell from the internet!

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#400 Matt

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Posted 25 September 2012 - 09:01 AM

Pretty sure theyre a MAF (mass air flow) engine stock?

Someone correct me if im wrong?




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