Posted 08 December 2008 - 05:00 PM
Haha, It does to a certain extent.
Engine dynamics (lol big words for Soop here.) aren't simple and straight forward in practise.
You have to realise that you have to deal with what you've got. So what I said in my last post, is more theory than what you'll have to deal with in practice.
Essentially, what you should look at doing. Based on what I beleive is correct (you do your own research of course), I think you'll be far better off in the hip pocket (Bang for buck's wise) if you settle for just porting the heads. If this is even relevant on the EZ motors. If the EZ30d is capable of flowing 250hp in standard form, save your time and effort and focus on more rellivant area's.
With NA's 75% (I pulled that out my arse, so don't take it litterally) of your gains will be in the tuning. Because to get the most out of your engine you'll need to pretty picky about what you use and how you use it.
Timing and Fuel is key. Get these right and you'll have a responive engine that will perform to its potential.
If your dead set keen on making a powerful NA EZ30. You'd need to start with a EZ30r IMO.
These have better heads standard (The EZ30D has a shared port AFAIK, the EZ30r does not), the EZ30r has AVCS, which will cost you more to tune, but will perform better. (Also harder to fit into a gen2, which equalls $$$)
You may want to look at bumping up the compression ratio, IIRC they run 10.1:1 standard, you maybe able to run as much as 12.1:1 if you have it tuned to a tee, and ALWAY use the highes RON fuel possible.
This will rule out any sort of forced induction how ever. (Stupid idea anyway really $$$)
**You could could also look into blue printing and balancing the crank and block. This will really help if you want to rev it hard (8-8500rpm maybe?), This combined with forged rods and pistons (Look into Hyperutectic pistons, they're light, thus reducing the reciprocating mass, combined with cereamic coating this could be a good option.) you'll be in good stead to make a strong NA.
If you do rebuild the engine, you may get the bottom end together for around $3000??
But if you do, do it. You'll be thank full you did. If you stick a rod out of the block it'll cost you alot more.
After that the bolt on mods you've already mentioned will complement it well.
I recomend sitting down and writing a list things you want to get out of the motor.
Then, write a list of all the things you'll need to do to acheive it.
Once you have that come here and confirm it with people on SC. We'll help you out as much as we can, but the onus is on you to make sure you have the facts correct.
Only then can you really tell a builder what you want done.
TSM
(plus it was 18).
