MrSober88's GEN3 RX
Started by MrSober88, Oct 20 2012 09:19 PM
375 replies to this topic
#61
Morgan
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...jus waitin' 4 a m8
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Posted 26 November 2012 - 09:02 PM
I must remember hitting on the cop does actually work...
#62
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Posted 26 November 2012 - 09:07 PM
Hahaha noo he wasnt my type....no ve-jj, no boobs, too fat and made me wait...thats a big no no lol
I honestly spent 5 mins talking about why i didnt just buy a wrx lol
I honestly spent 5 mins talking about why i didnt just buy a wrx lol
#63
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Posted 26 November 2012 - 09:23 PM
Is there a way to find out if its the right bonnet I need? like I know you can tell by the lights but is there a way to tell by the bonnet?
The 2 pointy bits at the front of the bonnet that run down the sides of your grill have a flat bit at the bottom.
Are you with me?
On a Rev A-C they are 40mm wide each side.
Rev D-E they are 55mm
Pretty hard to tell just by looking, unless you know what to look for.
#64
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Posted 26 November 2012 - 09:29 PM
The grooves on each side of the bonnet that run up towards the windscreen are wider near the windscreen on the a-c revision compared to the d-e revision that close up towards the windscreen
#65
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Posted 26 November 2012 - 09:35 PM
A-C revision
D-E revision
See the crease on either side of the bonnet? The inner edge of this crease stays wide up to the windscreen on the A-C revision, but closes up earlier on the D-E bonnet
Youll also never see a "stock" legacy badged grille on a D-E revision, theyre all subaru badged
#66
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Posted 26 November 2012 - 09:44 PM
Thanks heaps guys, will see how I go haha.
Now I just need to find a replacement radiator as the one in the WRX was leaking from the crash
Now I just need to find a replacement radiator as the one in the WRX was leaking from the crash
#67
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Posted 26 November 2012 - 10:01 PM
Just get an aftermarket alloy gd wrx one...koyo, gopher whatever fits the budget...dont bother about a standard type
Your gen3 one should work as a temporary fix, but id honestly step up to a higher performace radiator for cheap insurance
Your gen3 one should work as a temporary fix, but id honestly step up to a higher performace radiator for cheap insurance
#68
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Posted 26 November 2012 - 10:13 PM
Don't buy a cheap one though. Drain bungs always leak on the cheap ones.
I went through two cheap ebay ones that leaked at the bung, Ended up just alloy welding up the bung hole and draining from the bottom hose lol.
I went through two cheap ebay ones that leaked at the bung, Ended up just alloy welding up the bung hole and draining from the bottom hose lol.
#69
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Posted 26 November 2012 - 10:21 PM
Who drains from the bung anyways? lol
Ive honestly never seen anyone do it on a subaru?
I went PWR which was pricey, but well worth what ya pay
Ive honestly never seen anyone do it on a subaru?
I went PWR which was pricey, but well worth what ya pay
#70
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Posted 26 November 2012 - 10:40 PM
How much did it set you back?
How do I find them also? I can't seem to find where to buy from. The same with the braided brake lines?
Might have to have a look over at Rexnet for some aftermarket places
How do I find them also? I can't seem to find where to buy from. The same with the braided brake lines?
Might have to have a look over at Rexnet for some aftermarket places
#71
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Posted 26 November 2012 - 10:50 PM
Nobody does 
But when it leaks you start fiddling.
But when it leaks you start fiddling.
#72
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Posted 26 November 2012 - 10:56 PM
Theyre all over the net? Pro Speed Racing will probably have something thatll suit your needs...but theres heaps aroundHow much did it set you back?
How do I find them also? I can't seem to find where to buy from. The same with the braided brake lines?
Might have to have a look over at Rexnet for some aftermarket places
The braided lines i got through v-sport...make sure you get gen3 specific ones as they have two lines each side at the rear due to multilink rear suspension, front are the same as the wrx etc
Ahhh okNobody does
#73
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Posted 27 November 2012 - 12:41 PM
Last I tallied up for a basic engine change was about 4,500. And that was no stupidly fast thing, that was simply a drop in engine (ie upgrading a 00RX to an EJ20TT, factory standard fitment in that chassis).
There's no engineering required if the engine you are fitting is listed in the factory owners handbook. In the case of the 2.5 RX, the EJ20TT is listed.
#74
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Posted 27 November 2012 - 08:02 PM
Interesting... Nice to see motor reg are helping me out with correct information...
MY00 Red RX, a nice daily that was sold off once the B4 became reliable...
MY02 Blue B4, aka 'The Project' - v8 JDM STi engine package and assorted other 'goodies' - Sold, then bought back for parts. Stripped and crushed.
MY03 Blue RX, the newer old daily, pretty well more B4 than RX now... In the process of being converted to the track toy... Watch this space!
MY02 Silver Wagon, H6 conversion, full blue/black leather and almost full black interior to go with it. In process of being stripped and sold off.
MY03 White/Silver H6 Outback, donor car for silver waghoon. Scrapped.
MY97 Silver RX, acquired to become track car, but plans changed. Scrapped.
MY13 BRG, current daily, very nice to drive, small mods to make it even nicer again.
#75
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Posted 28 November 2012 - 10:08 PM
Just a quick question on the ECU, Been doing some searching and found the 99 WRX ECU is not tunable. Things like Ezy-Flash pro, Power FC come up. But can't find much info on this.
Is the WRX ECU safe to use if the car is stock? Or will I somehow need to get a tune?
Is the WRX ECU safe to use if the car is stock? Or will I somehow need to get a tune?
#76
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Posted 29 November 2012 - 04:45 AM
I have a v3 sti ecu which it non tuneable.
Car hat full tbe, diff turbo, diff TMIC and 18 psi. And she's fine
But I do wonder why later lodel Ecus are so sensitive
Car hat full tbe, diff turbo, diff TMIC and 18 psi. And she's fine
But I do wonder why later lodel Ecus are so sensitive
#77
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Posted 01 December 2012 - 08:17 PM
I have a v3 sti ecu which it non tuneable.
Car hat full tbe, diff turbo, diff TMIC and 18 psi. And she's fine
But I do wonder why later lodel Ecus are so sensitive
Really? I always thought you had to if you upgraded stuff. Not that it wouldn't run, but more so it would run better after the tune?
In other news, I put the front 4 pots in.... My rotors happened to be a little rusted onto the hub so took some time. But managed to get them on and bleed the brakes, after somehow nearly slicing my pinkie off.
Still can't do much untill I get an engine crane (which will be tomorrow) then I will pull the engine out of the WRX and do a full service on it. Then take out the body loom for the Lib and hopfully everything goes smooth from there haha.
#78
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Posted 01 December 2012 - 08:24 PM
Sorry I had forgotten to post up pics of my brakes as I preped them for painting.
#79
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Posted 01 December 2012 - 08:28 PM
Really? I always thought you had to if you upgraded stuff. Not that it wouldn't run, but more so it would run better after the tune?
Yeah I'm not 100% sure, I didnt build the car so I haven't really researched it.
I would probably yield better results with a new ecu and a tune. But she goes well enough
Maybe the older ecus are more chilled out.
#80
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Posted 01 December 2012 - 09:18 PM
Brakes look awesome. Very nice work!
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