
MrSober88's GEN3 RX
#81
Posted 02 January 2013 - 01:46 AM
I was in talks with Miles about it, but i didnt get a chance to call before shutdown period. So just wondering what i need to send it as soon as they re open...
#82
Posted 02 January 2013 - 02:35 PM
Mmmm. That is a bit lacking in the crash bar department ay. Its only a bumper support, nothing more. But, it will look lots more factory than cutting the standard item. Your choice though. Expect a raping of the wallet by motor reg. if you want engineering. Last I tallied up for a basic engine change was about 4,500. And that was no stupidly fast thing, that was simply a drop in engine (ie upgrading a 00RX to an EJ20TT, factory standard fitment in that chassis). Once you start talking non-standard fitments like WRX motors into liberties, prices go up again (due to more testing required).
Thats why a lot of people avoid engineering. The prices are rediculously expensive. Track hire to do high speed lane change tests (In SA, they hire out Adelaide International Raceway), emissions tests, etc. Oh, and that price works on the theory that you actually pass all of the tests too... If you fail, come back and pay more sonny jim (not to mention it gets a defect sticker and you cant drive it in the mean time).
Seems like a load of shit to me. Not saying your full of shit, just in QLD it seems a lot easier to get engineered. What ever motor your putting in, as long as you have all the brakes from that model car fitted too, it will be fine. Thats how one of the boys was able to fit a 5lt v12 toyota to his gen3.
There's no engineering required if the engine you are fitting is listed in the factory owners handbook. In the case of the 2.5 RX, the EJ20TT is listed.
Same with this. I think its a load of shit again. You are modifying the power output of the car, fitting non standard parts onto it. Your RTA and insurance company wont look at you if your involved in an accident if the car hasn't been engineered.
I had my mod plate done in my green RX a few years ago after it had a V3 STi conversion. Cost me $66 for it to be inspected and approved.
To the original poster, car is looking really neat mate. Only thing I can see is wrong is your BOV location. They should be on the outside of a bend, not the inside. Apart from that, shes pretty good.
As soon as i mentioned 300kw I was in trouble
#83
Posted 02 January 2013 - 04:17 PM
To the original poster, car is looking really neat mate. Only thing I can see is wrong is your BOV location. They should be on the outside of a bend, not the inside. Apart from that, shes pretty good.
I assume you are talking about Matt's car? As I have not put the EJ205 into my Lib yet its still being stripped down for general service before putting it in. Do you have a build thread on the green lib on here? I would like to have a gander.
#84
Posted 02 January 2013 - 04:53 PM
I have two at the moment.
Current one http://www.subyclub....863#entry268863
and the old green car http://www.rsliberty...-my-ride-988OXR
As soon as i mentioned 300kw I was in trouble
#85
Posted 02 January 2013 - 09:18 PM

Anyways so why would the bov make such a difference on the outside of the bend? Aside from the air flow path i dont get ya? Its only relieving pressure isnt it? Al made that piping for me and ive never had any issue since it was fitted?
#86
Posted 03 January 2013 - 05:11 AM
As soon as i mentioned 300kw I was in trouble
#87
Posted 03 January 2013 - 05:22 PM
#88
Posted 03 January 2013 - 08:14 PM
As soon as i mentioned 300kw I was in trouble
#89
Posted 03 January 2013 - 09:11 PM

#90
Posted 04 January 2013 - 04:50 PM
Say I put a VF34 or TD05 - 18g, FMIC, Silcone intake etc. Would this make it run like poo running of the 99'WRX ECU?
Can I use a ECU off an newer model and tune that?
Can the ECU be flashed for those mods and make it run safe?
Or am I better off getting an engine managment like the PowerFC?
I admit I know nothing about tuning, I have been trying to find info myself but not sure what is best for my car.
#91
Posted 04 January 2013 - 08:31 PM
As soon as i mentioned 300kw I was in trouble
#92
Posted 05 January 2013 - 06:46 PM
Your car will still be running a factory afm and oxygen sensor. Your car will be fine with fmic and bigger turbo. Throw all your gear on, then take it to a dyno where they can check the air/fuel mixture and set your boost accordingly. If your were fitting bigger injectors then yes, you'd need a aftermarket ecu. Just dont be hung up on running a certain boost or making certain power. With your mods you should see somewhere about 180kw running about 18psi.
Thanks for the info, I was not planning anything special power wise. Just wanted to get use to how the car will drive first then look at more power.
So do those two turbos sound like a good choice for what I have?
Do you have any info on what kind of intake setup I would need for the fmic?
Could anyone also tell me what I need to do with the A/C compressor? I saw Sam needed to keep his RX Compressor to keep the A/C?
Heres some pics of the work done today, Run into a little problem with the driveway not being level and trying to jack the car of all 4 wheels. But hopefully I can move the WRX out after I take the engine out and swap places.






But it started raining so hope tomorrow is sunny.
#93
Posted 05 January 2013 - 07:07 PM
Balls deep in it now!
I've asked about those roof racks on Facey, PM me on here if it's easier! The pics look like they are the ski racks I'm after

#94
Posted 05 January 2013 - 07:14 PM
Have sent you a PM about roof racks
#95
Posted 05 January 2013 - 08:25 PM
#96
Posted 06 January 2013 - 04:43 PM
Quick question anyone know of an easy way to take driveshaft nuts off? My supercheap breaker bar snapped after one nut......
Or know of any brands I should try and buy for a breaker bar?
#97
Posted 06 January 2013 - 04:45 PM
#98
Posted 06 January 2013 - 05:38 PM
Probably be easier if you can get hold of a good rattle gun. I struggled trying to het those nuts off. Make sure the locking tab has been lifted otherwise theres no way it will let go.
As for your ac, id just keep the rx one mate.
As soon as i mentioned 300kw I was in trouble
#99
Posted 06 January 2013 - 05:42 PM
Process west in gaurd CAI's work wellDo you have any info on what kind of intake setup I would need for the fmic?
#100
Posted 07 January 2013 - 10:39 AM
I thought the sca breaker bar was shit. I have used the handle of a trolley jack, slipped over the spanner in the past?
Yeah I was expecting it to be shit, but for it only to last one nut. The metal was to frail, I should take it back and ask for a refund.
Better off with the vf34. Or a vf23.
Probably be easier if you can get hold of a good rattle gun. I struggled trying to het those nuts off. Make sure the locking tab has been lifted otherwise theres no way it will let go.
As for your ac, id just keep the rx one mate.
The locking bit on the nut is stuffed, The guy that did the driveshaft boot, and the guy I got to change the clutch used the same nut so its hard to knock it back out.
Thats good to know about the A/C though I must be missing a bolt as I can't get it off the engine...
Process west in gaurd CAI's work well
I was also looking at the Perrin one as I want to get a KoyoRad from the same place I saw these.
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