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Best ej block for a monster turbo build?


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#81 SC00BY

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Posted 29 August 2013 - 02:45 PM

Dandan Automotive :)
They do but im doing my engine change at home because hes busy with customers cars atm

#82 SC00BY

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Posted 29 August 2013 - 02:50 PM

I found an ej25 with 170xxxkms for $200 so im going to pick that up and drop it straight in

#83 Morgan

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Posted 29 August 2013 - 03:09 PM

Do the HG while it's out


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#84 SC00BY

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Posted 29 August 2013 - 05:05 PM

Do the HG while it's out

Do the heads need to be machined/reconditioned when you do the HG?

#85 jimmyg

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Posted 29 August 2013 - 05:27 PM

If I was to get an ej257 block for a turbo build what kind of compression ratio would be good? 8.5:1 or 9.8:1?

 

My advice is do some big time reading. Your all over the shop atm.

 

Lets go back to where this thread started.

 

The best BLOCK for big HP is a closed deck 2l or 2.2l. Sure a 2.5l can make big power but come the end of the day it is nver going to be as strong as a 2l or 2.2l. 

 

Forget about throwing boy racer number about and start thinking about what you really want! Few pointers to think about....

 

- What are you going to use the car for? Track days? Street car? 1/4 mile? All of them?

- Budget. How much do you want to spend? Remember any build will end up about twice what you expected. Sad as it is.  :(

- Reliability. Sure as fark start thinking about this one!

- Lag. 3000rpm spool or 6000rpm spool etc?

- Fuel. 98? e85? Eflex ecu?

 

The list goes on... My point is get your brain working and define what your after. Reserch how others have built a packadge like what your after. Learn from it and form a plan of action to make it happen.

 

Sorry to sound like a nasty farker but asking if 8.5:1 vs 9.8:1 is like asking should i fly to the moon or walk?



#86 cameron

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Posted 29 August 2013 - 05:37 PM

nek minit - op posts not going ahead anymore due to other commitments. (aka realised i should have listened and now realise the real costs)

Have you put any more thought into squeezing some more power out of the engine. Like strapping on one of those intake fans


#87 sbv

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Posted 29 August 2013 - 05:50 PM

I think he started this thread to help him form a medium to long term plan, but it seems like he's spun a bearing and now is forced into a short term plan (ie N/A 2.5). Much as his objectives/expectations were a bit unpredictable to start with, it seems he's now had to come up with a quick fix.

#88 SC00BY

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Posted 29 August 2013 - 06:11 PM

I think he started this thread to help him form a medium to long term plan, but it seems like he's spun a bearing and now is forced into a short term plan (ie N/A 2.5). Much as his objectives/expectations were a bit unpredictable to start with, it seems he's now had to come up with a quick fix.

Pretty much spot on, was hoping to build this turbo engine over the next year and a half. Unfortunately my n/a 2.5 spun a bearing so I need to do a quick engine swap to atleast get my car back on the road

#89 JRod

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Posted 29 August 2013 - 06:18 PM

Or you could just throw another set of bearings in, linish the crank, give the motor a quick freshen up and have a bit more time to ponder what you actually want.

As for a 2.5 being not as strong as the other for big hp Jimmy, what brings you to this conclusion?????

Most of the time, it comes back to the tuner, or the mechanicals inside.

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As soon as i mentioned 300kw I was in trouble :)


#90 SC00BY

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Posted 29 August 2013 - 06:37 PM

Or you could just throw another set of bearings in, linish the crank, give the motor a quick freshen up and have a bit more time to ponder what you actually want.

As for a 2.5 being not as strong as the other for big hp Jimmy, what brings you to this conclusion?????

Most of the time, it comes back to the tuner, or the mechanicals inside.

Going to cost me more to do that then it would to just straight swap a running engine?

#91 Morgan

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Posted 29 August 2013 - 08:21 PM

With the constant stream of issues the previous owner has had with this car, I'd be very inclined to go down the new engine route for now...

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#92 SC00BY

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Posted 29 August 2013 - 08:34 PM

With the constant stream of issues the previous owner has had with this car, I'd be very inclined to go down the new engine route for now...

Yeah especially when he previously had a timing belt issue where I think it was slipping a tooth? Could of fine quite abit of damage :/

#93 Cam.

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Posted 29 August 2013 - 08:38 PM

Bah, 1 tooth will do nothing.

It just wouldn't run properly.


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#94 SC00BY

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Posted 29 August 2013 - 08:59 PM

Bah, 1 tooth will do nothing.

It just wouldn't run properly.

You'd be suprised haha, but still im abit stumped how it could have spun a bearing, had penrite hpr 30 and it wasn't low on oil or anything it just happened to let go :/
My old gen 2 rx copped a thrashing and a half and the worst I got was tappet noise on cold starts :L

#95 Cam.

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Posted 29 August 2013 - 09:21 PM

Not suprised, I know.
HPR30 is 20-60. 20-60 in one of these engines in winter, Not the best.

The best oil in these engines is any of these three:

Castrol Edge 5-40, Mobil Delvac MX 15-40 or Penrite HPR10 10-50.  


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#96 SC00BY

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Posted 29 August 2013 - 09:32 PM

I was using hpr 15 but it was eating it? About a litre a night so I put thicker so it doesn't eat it :/

#97 Robert

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Posted 29 August 2013 - 09:32 PM

Castrol Edge 5-40 

I think that would fall straight through my engine 



#98 alexGT

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Posted 29 August 2013 - 09:35 PM

I was using hpr 15 but it was eating it? About a litre a night so I put thicker so it doesn't eat it :/

 

if your engine is eating any oil then you already HAD a problem.


MY07 GT spec B

 


#99 Robert

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Posted 29 August 2013 - 09:36 PM

1 litre a night, is allot of oil 



#100 simon

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Posted 29 August 2013 - 09:37 PM

if your engine is eating any oil then you already HAD a problem.


+1 yep she was already on the way out.

SOLD Legacy GTB 

SOLD Gen 1 RS turbo wagon

SOLD Gen2 Outback limited

Car less atm.......Whats next??





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