547 replies to this topic

[zahmad]

I can confirm that a 15 min drive to work kills the economy... 13.8l/100km from my n/a 2.5 so not far off Jimbo...

[cowie165]

yeh - 15l/100km sounds high.

 

I get ~12.5 around town in traffic (rarely in secondary).  9.5-ish on the freeway, and that's with silly outback gear ratios.

 

Your 15min commute probably kills it - engine hasn't even warmed up.

 

Get yourself a fuel app and use it. Very handy. I use My Cars.

 

My tank hits E at about 15l to go, warning light at about 10l. I Kramer'd it to 100km on the warning light once, still didn't run out (but had a jerry on the roof).

 

Tank is 64l by the spec book.

 

That's really good to know it's not just mine running a little extra gas on the short trips. Someone here recommended FuelLog (i think it's called) and have been using that (my first fuel app) for a couple of months. I love it. So handy for keeping home mechanic service records too. Using it on the bike too.

 

Hey is there a way to tweak the fuel gauge? I'd rather have warning light on at about 50km range remaining. I don't know why but it bugs me that I fill it to max and the needle almost immediately steps off F. I'd love to bump the gauge to read higher (ie. more accurately). For me, E means bro you need to start planning a servo, rather than it meaning I can still make 4 more trips to work.

 

Is it just a mechanical fix? Pull the needle off and move it around one notch?

 

[jimbo pls excuse the threadjack. I can start a new thread if you'd prefer]

[Jimbo]

Pff not worried about what's posted in here!

The fuel light is activated by the sender in the pump assembly and not the fuel gauge, so you can scratch that one!

[duncanm]

pull the sender assembly and bend the wire arm from the float - that'll do it.

[cowie165]

Pff not worried about what's posted in here!

The fuel light is activated by the sender in the pump assembly and not the fuel gauge, so you can scratch that one!

 

 

pull the sender assembly and bend the wire arm from the float - that'll do it.

 

Thanks gents.

 

I don't think I explained things fully. The rub point is the E light coming on with >100km range, but also that it points so far below E when that happens. If the fuel gauge was a zero-to-ten scale instead of E - F, when full it points at 9/10, the fuel light comes on a -1/10 (ie. below E) but it seems now that a true empty tank is around -3/10.

 

Maybe I'll just give the float arm a tiny bend and be done with it. I thought the fuel gauge needle was fitted like a steering wheel (onto a notched shaft).

 

Cheers again

[Jimbo]

Ah i see what you're saying.

Rather than sitting on E and indicating your tank needs topping up about 3mm under it, it would be more accurate for the light to come on just before the needle hits E, indicating a true empty?

[cowie165]

Along those lines, for sure. Even if the light came on at E, that'd be fine as well. Mine drops below E, and according to physics I still have 100km range left.

 

PS. Did you know RevDE low fuel warning includes the fuel ring lighting up? How cool

[nickknack]

You get over the novelty after the first time... haha

[Jimbo]

Okay, so I made a note of my most previous fuel fill up.

Petrol light came on at 355km's racked up on the trip meter.

Filled up and got 51.5L into it so that would make it roughly 14.5L/100km's.

 

[Beckers]

yeh - 15l/100km sounds high.

 

9.5-ish on the freeway, and that's with silly outback gear ratios.

 

The outback ratios are not that different, when you compare the diff ratios.

The 4.44 equipped cars are only 100 - 200 rpm lower @ 100kms.

[cowie165]

Okay, so I made a note of my most previous fuel fill up.

Petrol light came on at 355km's racked up on the trip meter.

Filled up and got 51.5L into it so that would make it roughly 14.5L/100km's.

 

 

Oh wow! Dude that's fairly high. I also do short trips only and run around 11.3L/100kms (also early EJ206). Have you changed any of the usual suspects? Do you know what boost you're running?

 

edit: jimbo you prob need a hiclone! take your EJ20 to the next level!! All the best JDM snake oil salesmen love them

[duncanm]

The outback ratios are not that different, when you compare the diff ratios.
The 4.44 equipped cars are only 100 - 200 rpm lower @ 100kms.

yes - numbers say 3250 vs 3088 at 120km/h.

Still - that's 5% higher revs - and on the TT motor, she's full on boost. Very touchy throttle at those revs.

[cowie165]

yes - numbers say 3250 vs 3088 at 120km/h.

Still - that's 5% higher revs - and on the TT motor, she's full on boost. Very touchy throttle at those revs.

 

For those playing at home: that's why the OEM setup for Line 10 (on early TTs) is like it is. Recirc the vac line to smoothen out the throttle inputs.

[Jimbo]

I rarely use Drive which is probably part of it (daily work commutes). Usually the lever stays in 3 and AT is set to "Power" on a permanent basis.

Doesn't bother me she likes a drink though in the slightest. 

Boost on average would be about 11psi on primary, it can get to 15psi all depending on how quickly you sink the pedal. Obviously then it'll scale back while the secondary is getting it's groove on.

In full sequential, she'll swallow about 16-17psi steady.

[Samwise]

You kids and your fuel economy. It's kinda cute lol.

[cowie165]

Sam you and your damn friends need to get the hell off my grass

 

 

[bigboyscottyb]

Jimbo, car looks great as usual! Funny you buy a later model car to avoid issues with ages (good old Rs days) but it just seems to be a genetic defect inbred into Subaru's!

Should try catch up soon, see this beast in the flesh

[Samwise]

Sam you and your damn friends need to get the hell off my grass
 

Sorry my car eats your grass.

Meme is not correct. Paid for that evo with my drug money.

[duncanm]

You kids and your fuel economy. It's kinda cute lol.

 

its an old man thing.

[cowie165]

Sorry my car eats your grass.

Meme is not correct. Paid for that evo with my drug money.

 

lol :-D

 

Liberty land whale too slow. Needed moare EVO to evade police and win race wars.