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DIY - Mesh Grille

liberty grill grille mesh my02 2001 easy

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#1 DanW

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Posted 10 May 2013 - 02:40 PM

Hey Guys,
Just finished fixing up my Liberty's grille after wanting to put mesh on it for a month or two now.

If anyone's looked for a mesh grille on MY02 Liberty's, they'll know how hard they are to find, especially if you want a badge on them and want to be safe with fitting.

All up it took me about 3-4 hours to complete, so it was alright, plus there're heaps of variations for the project.

Step 1: Setup [approx. 40 mins]

TOOLS
  • Soldering Iron [flat faced] (Optional, makes the job 10x easier)
  • Hacksaw
  • Sandpaper
  • Screwdriver Set
  • Ratchet Set
  • Belt/Power Sander (Optional, will make life alot easier)
  • Tin-snips
Materials
  • SAAS Universal Mesh [$15-30]
  • Carbon Fibre Vinyl (Optional, heatproof paint can also be used) [$7 for Vinyl, ~$20 for Paint]
  • White-out or marker)
Remove grille from your car and setup in a well ventilated area

Step 2: Removing Existing Honeycomb Grille [approx. 45 mins]

This stuff smells terrible, and is pretty toxic as it is a polymer, so try not inhale the smoke if you're melting. Same goes for the particles you saw off.

The way I removed the honeycomb grille was by melting it off with a soldering iron (it didn't harm the soldering iron at all), purely because a hacksaw was too big to fit between slats.
Melting each connection the exterior to snap it out took approx. 15 mins (in halves; 30-45 mins overall)...

NOTE: If you want to put a badge on at the end, Try not to damage the grey badge housing in the centre, or remove it prior to cutting/melting by unscrewing the back.

Posted Image

Initially I was going to keep the solid centre module, but decided against it as it would look rather odd. This was a little bit harder to melt away as it is bigger and solid.

I melted away sections from both front, then back to meet in the middle to prevent damage to other areas.

Step 3: Sanding and Fine Tuning [approx. 60 mins]

I ended up spending about 30 mins - an hour fine tuning with a saw and hacksaw to try and remove the teeth left behind (ended up breaking a saw too)...

From here I sanded it down to almost level with the existing frame with regular sandpaper... if you have a power sander, you could just grind down the teeth with that, rather than sawing the remaining parts. The sanding took about 10 mins after the trimming.

Step 4: Carbon Fibre Wrapping/Spray Painting [approx. 15 mins]

After completing step 3, hose down and dry off the grille to remove all left over dust.

From here you can apply vinyl to the grille's interior frame to cover the damage done by the sandpaper, you won't really need to heat it... I didn't, as you can just overlap the vinyl and be unnoticeable unless you knew where the joins were (even then it's hard to spot).

Step 4: Apply Mesh [approx. 30 mins]

Applying the mesh is probably the easiest part of this whole process... mark out the size you want (make it to the edge of the WHOLE frame, not just the opening), you can do this either with white-out or some form of while marker/pencil.

Cut with tin-snips where needs to be, then place cut-out at the back of the grille, placing the screws between pieces of mesh so it's lodged in place (cut connections where required to fit existing screws through).

Screw the nuts down (not 100% tightly, about 60-80%) to secure the mesh. Bend the mesh around the opening at the back as much as possible.

I didn't secure the bottom with and adhesive or screw, so you can do what you will if you really want to secure it, but it's not really too important.

Step 5: Apply Badge (Optional) [approx. 5-10 mins]

If you are applying the liberty badge in the housing you removed previously, you will need to remove 2 clips on both sides around the back, at the top so it can be attached via existing screws.

Find centre of the grille (top and bottom). I counted the amount of diamonds for top and bottom, and ruled to find the centre lengthways.

Once you have placed it in the centre, screw in the two small screws already there (in the back of the grey housing, used to remove it from the original grille).

Tighten screws as much as possible to ensure it doesn't fall off... You may need to adjust the tightening to get it to sit level.

Posted Image


Now Reinstall and enjoy!

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Was a pretty good DIY job, most extensive one I've had to do thus far, but really enjoyed it and wasn't too hard either.

Peace.

#2 allpaw4

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Posted 10 May 2013 - 06:53 PM

Thats awesome. Been wanting to do this for ages now, and couldnt justify the 200+ from IM. Descriptive and well written. Shall do this in the coming months!
A mini hacksaw will work better, due to the blade being about 5mm high, rather than about 10-12mm. Saves the soldering iron, and would speed the process up substantially.

MY00 Red RX, a nice daily that was sold off once the B4 became reliable...
MY02 Blue B4, aka 'The Project' - v8 JDM STi engine package and assorted other 'goodies' - Sold, then bought back for parts. Stripped and crushed.
MY03 Blue RX, the newer old daily, pretty well more B4 than RX now... In the process of being converted to the track toy... Watch this space!
MY02 Silver Wagon, H6 conversion, full blue/black leather and almost full black interior to go with it.
MY03 White/Silver H6 Outback, donor car for silver waghoon.
MY97 Silver RX, acquired to become track car, but plans changed. To be stripped and scrapped in time.


#3 FR34KO

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Posted 11 May 2013 - 01:55 PM

That's awesome man! Love the structure of the DIY also :)

#4 jakefake

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Posted 04 June 2013 - 10:08 PM

What do you think it would look like without the mesh on the back and having it open like the newer WRX's



#5 Mitch.

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Posted 04 June 2013 - 11:46 PM

What do you think it would look like without the mesh on the back and having it open like the newer WRX's

like aids. i left it without mesh for a while on my gen 2 and it made the front end look cheap and nasty.  needs the mesh behind it IMO



#6 Tim.

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Posted 05 June 2013 - 03:59 PM

Jake, go the E-tune grill then do this DIY. The E-tune is much deeper and would recess the mesh more - which seems like the effect you are after.







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