1295 replies to this topic

[CRUISN]

If you put new oem bolts in which are coated anyway, you wont have any issues during your ownership of the car.

Those gold coated ones from automotive chain stores you buy in those small plastic packs will be fine also.

[allpaw4]

Gold coated ones will be good in the fact they are generally high tensile as well, but as Mark said, oem will be best.

[Robert]

What are the size of the bolts for future reference ?

[Cam.]

Factory ones should be M10x1.25

[JRod]

Grade 10 high temp bolts.

[Barbbachello]

Lots done today. Went and got some PS line that does fit to begin with.

Ran wires for the boost control bits and Intake Air Temp sensor to the ECU. Will be tidied up better once its running.

 

Put the belts on. Yes i know the PS line is very close to the alternator belt. Its also on my to-do list

 

Bolted the exhaust on. With regards to the bolts I put the stainless ones in. The exhaust will be getting changed to the 3" one in 3 months and will put new/proper ones in. If these ones snap they snap. Its only the 2 top bolts

 

Also filled the engine with oil and gearbox with oil. New oil filter as well. Was going to do the diff as well but didnt realise the gear oil i bought was only 2.5L so had to use all of it on the gearbox. Oh well. Also filled the cooling system with water as much as i could without the engine running. Cant see any drips other than the ones made from filling up the header tank so thats good.

Off the top of my head ive got the following to do:

• Diff oil
• ECU wiring
• O2 Sensor
• Bleed clutch
• Gearbox exhaust brackets etc
• Throttle cable swap
• Bleed coolant
• Install Intercooler
• Skids
• Boost plumbing

[Beckers]

Looks like you had a very productive day, 

Not long now !!

[Adam]

So excited for you man!

[andrew_k]

It's got fluids!!

[allpaw4]

Looking good man, but make sure you bring a grinder when you go to remove those bolts. Smart move only doing the top 2. You'll be in a world of hurt if you did the bottom ones. You might need to remove the turbo to remove the bolts if they do shear in removal. Easy outs may be needed. I hope they come out nicely, but they are going to be painful if they don't.

[Barbbachello]

Looking good man, but make sure you bring a grinder when you go to remove those bolts. Smart move only doing the top 2. You'll be in a world of hurt if you did the bottom ones. You might need to remove the turbo to remove the bolts if they do shear in removal. Easy outs may be needed. I hope they come out nicely, but they are going to be painful if they don't.

If they shear i should just be able to pull them out? They dont bottom out against the exhaust housing. Or they likely to just completely freeze up and not want to come undone?

[allpaw4]

In my experience, the stainless bolts won't lock up on the mild steel, but the stainless nuts.

[Barbbachello]

In my experience, the stainless bolts won't lock up on the mild steel, but the stainless nuts.

mmmmmk. I guess if i have to go to super cheap again ill grab some new ones. For some reason i forgot the freeze up part and was just thinking theyd snap, Id also forgotten that theyd probably be a cubt to snap haha

[allpaw4]

The stainless will semi-fuse itself together. So it will spin ok in the mild steel housing, but because its locked up on the nut, that will make it really hard to remove the bolt even if you shear the head off with brute force.

[Barbbachello]

The stainless will semi-fuse itself together. So it will spin ok in the mild steel housing, but because its locked up on the nut, that will make it really hard to remove the bolt even if you shear the head off with brute force.

Yep going to get new ones it is. Cheers for schooling me on steels haha 

[Barbbachello]

Today we're going to learn how to fit something with an ID of 90mm into something with an external diameter of 89mm.

1. Ask yourself is this really worth it?
2. Boil a pot of water and stick your SFB in it for a few minutes 
3. Attempt to shoehorn your orange label MAF into the pipe while its hot
4. Realise it really doesnt fit
5. Swear profusely
6. Throw the SFB on the ground and swear more when it nearly slides in and pops out 
7. Get an actual shoehorn/bike tyre debeader and use that to spread the tube open
8. Swear even more and eventually get it in
9. Clamp the fork out of it with a hose clamp
10. ????
11. Profit 

[Cam.]

Should have just bought it a few drinks and spat on it.

[Barbbachello]

Should have just bought it a few drinks and spat on it.

The amount of foreplay and lube i used it should have slid straight in. Was tighter than a Nun. Ah well its done now. The last of the pain in the ass jobs done I think

[Barbbachello]

Today was a big day. While i sorted out a few odds and ends in the engine bay Ty sat in the passenger seat doing stuff to wires

We moved around the required wires and plugged in some extras for the boost control bits. Put in a battery, unplugged the coil pack and cranked it a few times to return some of the oil. Plugged the coil back in and turned the key again...

ITS ALIVE, im hoping that knocking wasnt the big end being starved of oil for a brief time lel, hasnt done it since then. The video was shot running on the NA ECU. Incase there was a wiring issue we checked it all on the NA ECU to make sure it wasnt going to explode before plugging in my V4 ECU. With the V4 ECU it starts much quicker and is much smoother. Idle is still a bit dicky as we need to fiddle with the TPS/IACV but it revs nice and smooth       . While having the airbox straight open made good choo choo noises it wasnt ideal for stealth so we trimmed the intake and got that in nicely

 

Havent driven it yet as theres a few bits and pieces to finish off and I need to put in a new CV which I just ordered. 

[Matt]

Winning!!!!