136 replies to this topic

[El_Freddo]

As any Gen3 owner can tell you, their high beam lights are absolute poo!

 

After many frustrations I finally managed to complete this work - stock first:

 

 

work completed - second setup that clears the bonnet when trying to open it:

 

 

Overall look:

 

 

I'm very happy with the look.  Neat and sort of aggressive with that Rally reference at the same time.

 

The wiring was another issue - for anyone doing this work:  Use the negative switching model and reference the pin closest to the engine for the right hand high beam relay.  This was THE wire we had to find for the "12v on with ignition".  Every other wire we tried had the lights operate on low beam or when the stock lights were off.  Very frustrating.  Here's the diagram for negative switching:

 

 

Standard high beam for reference:

 

 

This is the end result with all lights ablaze:

 

 

Standard low beam:

 

 

High beam:

 

 

Low beam:

 

 

Photo because I can:

 

 

I've really enjoyed driving this subi.  There's still some work to do but generally he's all sweet.  I love how well the EJ25 pulls so easily, and if you need it a little quicker from low revs, rev matching a lower gear works an absolute treat

 

Next mod will be changing the switching of the lights to two factory switches rather than one aftermarket switch dug into one of the blanking switch panels...

 

For now these lights have improved night driving 1000%.  High beam wars are no issue now either.  Roos can be seen from a very safe distance away - those that don't frighten from the exhaust note anyway.  This change makes night driving so much easier.  Now I'm wondering if my sister really wants to give my slightly modified L series back...

 

Cheers

 

Bennie

[El_Freddo]

Now I've got the L series back - it feels "heavy" in every department.  Turns out my sister does like her Liberty a lot - but she didn't mind flogging the L series around Gunbower Island!

 

Now that she's got Basil back, she finally took him in for a wheel alignment.  What came back was that his front shocks need replacing and the rear end bushes are shot.

 

"Almost done" with giving this liberty the go over and freshen up I think (and hope!).

 

I must say that the subi handles very well considering these issues.

 

Now to work out the game plan to replace those bits...  Any hints or tips?

 

Cheers

Bennie

[duncanm]

 

Next mod will be changing the switching of the lights to two factory switches rather than one aftermarket switch dug into one of the blanking switch panels...

 

 

Grab another fog switch from a wreckers - pop it in one of the blanks.  Why two?

[El_Freddo]

Grab another fog switch from a wreckers - pop it in one of the blanks.  Why two?

Already got another switch, missed a second one at the wreckers so grabbed a Gen1 lib switch that's basically the same - button is different but the clip in is the same and the plug for the wiring fits after swapping out the little white tab in back of the switch.

Why two switches? Two switches allow me to set up the four lights into sets of two. This enables the two sets to be switched separately for better setup of the lights and in the event of big signs one set can be dropped off rather than dipping to low beams. Plus two factory switches on the LHS of the steering column will look sweet where those blanking plates are...

It may be silly but it'll be good once it's done. Suspension issues take priority now...

Cheers

Bennie

[El_Freddo]

Ok, got the liberty back

1) in the morning there's a fuel smell in the cab. Any ideas why this might be occurring?

2) I've got to read the codes - the engine light comes on from time to time, there's no pattern and the duration changes too. There's some sort of miss occurring that's not really noticable. Plugs and leads were done last year.

3) Sis has managed to put almost 20k km on Basil already!

4) project suspension replacement has a month to be sorted. Any tips welcome!

Other than the above, he's still a very nice car to drive!

Cheers

Bennie

[Barbbachello]

Ok, got the liberty back

1) in the morning there's a fuel smell in the cab. Any ideas why this might be occurring?

Probably the rubber section of the fuel lines around the manifold weeping. Seems to be an issue on GD era cars. 

[El_Freddo]

Probably the rubber section of the fuel lines around the manifold weeping. Seems to be an issue on GD era cars.

Thanks mate. I'm not familiar with this part. Got a description or a pic for me to reference or will it be pretty obvious?

Got a code 22 stored. Need to look into this, then probably work out what the real issue is (thinking O2 sensor). Edit: code 22 = knock sensor short or open circuit. Looks like we might need a new one :/

Cheers

Bennie

[Barbbachello]

Thanks mate. I'm not familiar with this part. Got a description or a pic for me to reference or will it be pretty obvious?

Got a code 22 stored. Need to look into this, then probably work out what the real issue is (thinking O2 sensor). Edit: code 22 = knock sensor short or open circuit. Looks like we might need a new one :/

Cheers

Bennie

The fuel rails are joined by hard lines but theres some short pieces of rubber to connect them as well. Afaik they tend to weep and stink up the place in cold mornings. At least they do on 01+ WRX engines. Dont see why it wouldnt be a 01~ issue not just a WRX one

[allpaw4]

Had that same fault code on my old RX of same vintage at about 180 to 200k from memory. Simple change over with a new sensor. Managed to do it in the dealership car park with basic hand tools, so it's not a hard job. It is a pain to get to however.
Do like the light setup. Reminds me of my old RX,and the B4 when I first got it.
The only thing you'll pick from those bushings being shagged is excessive tyre wear. Handling will stay pretty good.

Cheers,
Ben

[El_Freddo]

Thanks Ben,

Handling through corners is second to none. On the straight when you hit a bump it becomes unstable - not in a dangerous way, just that as the driver you can feel the rear end become unsettled a little.

I've swapped the knock sensor from one from the wreckers that I picked up with an engine, but it too seems to be shot - but does not have the usual cracks etc in it that dead ones typically have.

Thanks Nick, I'll look further into that leak. Makes sense that it could be one of those little O rings or some rubber hose on the intake manifold.

Pics will come through of the suspension swap when it happens in the next couple of weeks.

Cheers

Bennie

[El_Freddo]

Bushes puchased.  OMG pretty expensive due to requiring 6 kits!  But it'll be totally worth it once its been done.

 

I'm also going to do the front end including struts as the struts were flagged as flogged at the last alignment.  Both front bushes look worn so doing the whole suspension, struts and ball joints will save us doing them later on down the track.

 

I also found out that the steering knuckle needs replacing.  I only know of one place that replaces the little uni joints on these things - and they're in Shepp.  I'm not keen on two trips for this little unit to be replaced.  A second hand one will be sourced.

 

As for the cab fuel smell - It's in the rear of the car that it's coming from.  Last night I hooked a U turn in a mate's driveway that's got an up incline.  After the nose of the car was higher than the rear, you could smell the fuel good and proper.  I had a full tank with about 80km worth used from it.  

- Any ideas where I should be looking for this?

 

Cheers

Bennie

[zahmad]

Fuel leak from the fuel tank/pump/filter assemble under the passenger seat.....

[El_Freddo]

Fuel leak from the fuel tank/pump/filter assemble under the passenger seat.....

 

Thanks mate, I'll check this out tomorrow!

 

No breather stuff in the rear panels?  I can't remember from when I had the rear interior out :/

 

Cheers

Bennie

[duncanm]

yeh - I'd be looking at the o-ring/gasket on the panel which the fuel pump hangs off.

 

Under the rear seat.

[El_Freddo]

yeh - I'd be looking at the o-ring/gasket on the panel which the fuel pump hangs off.

 

Under the rear seat.

 

I checked that out - there's no sign of any leakage there.  It was very dusty without any droplet/evaporation stains from liquid being present.

 

The search continues.

Cheers

Bennie

[duncanm]

evap lines and the charcoal canister ok?  The canister in a gen3 is a flat black box mounted up under the back somewhere..  (outside the body, I think near the rear tailgate adjacent to the spare tire well?).

 

Your 'smell when parked on an upward incline' suggests maybe the lines or valves to the solenoid from the back of the tank are suss.

 

Check out the lines to the filler at the same time.

 

Maybe that shunt in the rear drivers side  corner broke something.

[El_Freddo]

Good thinking Duncan. I'll try and check it out in the morning.

After a marathon effort with Dad we've *just* finished replacing ALL suspension bushes and front struts (at about 1:30am). Only took about two days in total.

After starting it up to settle suspension Basil has developed a knock - weird since he drove fine without noise from Bendigo on Sunday without an issue. Then endures two frosts at m&d's and now a knock like sound.

After listening with the stethoscope it's nothing internal - I've narrowed it down to the cam belt tensioner. It doesn't move as in its come loose. But it's definitely where the noise is coming from.

What I need to know is how long do these typically last before they let go? Unless a forum member has a suggestion I'm guessing it's the bearing in the tensioner. I won't be near the car for a while after tomorrow morning (Thursday) bit might have to do a special trip to sister's to sort this issue out.

Last thing I want is the engine to go rattle-rattle-bang because a belt bearing let go.

Hoping it'll be ok for the hour trip to Bendigo tomorrow for its wheel alignment.

Cheers

Bennie

[Barbbachello]

Pretty common for the actual hydraulic tensioner part to let go rather than the bearing and causes that awful knock noise. 

[El_Freddo]

How quickly after noise appears?

Looks like I've just added to my partouq shopping list...

- knock sensor
- O2 sensor
- belt tensioner

This belt kit is only about 20,000 km old too >

Thanks for the comment Barbachello

Cheers

Bennie

[El_Freddo]

Oh yeah - tensioner lets go as in belt skips teeth or something much more drastic and detrimental to the engine?

Cheers

Bennie