136 replies to this topic

[El_Freddo]

Well it’s almost August 2019, and I’ve got Basil in for HGs due to the pesky coolant and oil leaking externally. Head were shaved this time for piece of mind. He’s sitting on about 418,000km now. Was pulling like a freight train until I pulled him apart!

I ended up getting new head bolts - at about $4 a piece it made sense to go this way. I also found out there’s two different types of head bolts - the middle two are different to the outer two and are marked by paint on the head of the bolt. Last time I shoved them in any which way!

Anyway, I’m trying to find info on gearboxes. The replacement has a different code - only in the rear letters (when excluding the first two digits before the hyphen.

So I’ve got:
2000 RX model: H9 - TY75XFADA
2003 RX model: 54 - TY75XFCAB

What I want to know is whether the diff ratios are the same. I know they both came from the RX but I want to make sure I don’t have to chase a rear diff for this gearbox. I just want to throw it in and drive (once the engine is back in) without the centre diff exploding.

That’s about it for now, just trying to find that info!

Cheers

Bennie

[cowie165]

G'day Bennie.

 

T= transmission code

Y=manual trans

75=shaft spacing in mm

X=not 100% but pretty sure it's the bolt pattern

F=dual range

A=model (A=RevA and C=RevC)

D=?

A=?

last two will be the other trans-specific stuff (LSD, etc.). When I replaced the auto box in my RSK the last digit was A=slushbox or B=tiptronic solenoid

 

I don't think there is a code for final drive though, sorry dude.

[El_Freddo]

Thanks Cowie!

I’ve since downloaded a FSM and it seems that the 4.111:1 diff ratio runs through all RX revisions. So I should be ok in that department.

Cool info though!

Later this week I’m hoping to replace the valve stem seals before fitting the heads and getting the whole thing back together again.

Cheers

Bennie

[El_Freddo]

So the engine is finally done, it took way longer than I ever expected - but doing the work between sickness, work and family commitments meant this was definitely the last priority. He runs smooth and still pulls like a freight train until the check engine light comes on - code 22. Need to look that one up.

The gearbox swap - bit of a saga and made the whole “have Basil back together” excitement drop off quickly. Turns out it’s got a shot centre diff. Both gearboxes are now split old box to diagnose the noises I could hear - turns out the bearing on the upper shaft was dying and allowed a lot of end float in the shaft. The replacement box looks really good internally, everything is right as it should be. While the box is split I’m throwing some front diff bearings at it and swapping the centre diff from the old box since we know it’s good.

The gearbox codes - those last two digits that Cowie couldn’t identify must have something to do with the centre diff. Different bearings are used between the two centre diff shafts. This also requires differences between the housings. Our original box has ball and cage bearings on the rear drive output shafts, the replacement box has tapered roller bearings.

Hopefully I’ll have the box together, in and working as expected in the next fortnight.

Cheers

Bennie

[Beckers]

Well it’s almost August 2019, and I’ve got Basil in for HGs due to the pesky coolant and oil leaking externally. Head were shaved this time for piece of mind. He’s sitting on about 418,000km now. Was pulling like a freight train until I pulled him apart!

I ended up getting new head bolts - at about $4 a piece it made sense to go this way. I also found out there’s two different types of head bolts - the middle two are different to the outer two and are marked by paint on the head of the bolt. Last time I shoved them in any which way!

Anyway, I’m trying to find info on gearboxes. The replacement has a different code - only in the rear letters (when excluding the first two digits before the hyphen.

So I’ve got:
2000 RX model: H9 - TY75XFADA
2003 RX model: 54 - TY75XFCAB

What I want to know is whether the diff ratios are the same. I know they both came from the RX but I want to make sure I don’t have to chase a rear diff for this gearbox. I just want to throw it in and drive (once the engine is back in) without the centre diff exploding.

That’s about it for now, just trying to find that info!

Cheers

Bennie

Hey Bennie,

I think both of your gearbox codes are missing a number after the 75.

They are both dual range yeah ??

[El_Freddo]

Hey Bennie,
I think both of your gearbox codes are missing a number after the 75.
They are both dual range yeah ??

Yeah they are dual range. I’ll have to check the codes, but I’m sure they’re correct.

Cheers

Bennie

[El_Freddo]

Bit of an update as to what Ive been up to - with pics.

Some of the work done on Basil's engine while I had it out:



^ Valve lapping. Not much fun, but with a cheat's way with a DC electric drill and a piece of vacuum hose it was much easier!



^ "Look Dad, I got the head bolts in the right order this time!" - seriously though, I didn't realise there were two different head bolt types on the EJ251s. I only noticed the painted ones when I was removing them - and they weren't where they were meant to be - in the centre two holes! Got it sorted this time.

For those that know the EJ251/253!head setup, I removed the cam retainer plate to do the valve lapping and valve stem seal replacement. I wasn't going to lap the valves, but since I was already there it was worth the extra time to do the job. Once the head bolts were torqued down the cam retainer plate (and cam etc) was replaced with fresh silicone - something many don't do on these HG jobs. Hopefully no weeping oil leak from under the retainer plate for us!



^ the replacement gearbox. The old one is on the floor behind me in the pic, in the same amount of pieces!

Diff bearings are now swapped for new ones. Half of the reseal prep work is done on the front case halves. I'll also have to mess around with the diff bearing retainers due to the new bearings going in, things may have changed a tiny bit. New seals will go in too - these were meant for a gearbox I've got planned for Redback.

All going well I'll have Basil running again Sunday at the latest. Then to fix a few little, annoying issues, get a new rear muffler and send him off to his rightful owner (finally!).

Cheers

Bennie

[El_Freddo]

Wow that last update was a loooong time ago!

Im now driving Basil as the commuter vehicle as of end of last term, giving the Brumby a much deserved rest from this task.

Its a great drive, sips the fuel and gets up to boogie when asked to, plus it sounds sweet with the UEL extractors, factory is pipe and Genomie STi muffler! It puts many WRXs to shame!!

Now its developed a misfire under load. Initially it was in the same spot when you buried the foot in. But since swapping in new plugs it runs sweet - until under bonnet temps apparently climb, such as when in traffic. On the way home on the open road it went well but this misfire is still there under load at times - but now it moves in the throttle load, theres no consistency with the throttle load, gear etc.

Im looking at new leads now and wanted NGK branded ones but theyre apparently not available anymore. Looks like OEM could be the way to go here. Im just hoping its leads and not the coil pack. Also, any chance it could be the fuel pump playing funny buggers? It feels like a spark cut or a cylinder or two missing when it happens rather than a fuel starvation, but I cant remember the last time I experienced that in an EJ if ever.

And because I love the look of this thing, heres a pic of its good side!



Thats how its done Ben!

Cheers

Bennie

PS: now on 483,7xx km and was still going strong before this issue!

[allpaw4]

Have a look at the coil pack too Bennie, given they sit on top of the manifold and the problem seems to be heat related now. Leads don't usually fail that quickly in my experience, especially good quality aftermarket ones.

I see that dig there Bennie lol

Cheers,
Ben

[allpaw4]

I've got one here from a 2.0, not that there would be a lot of difference between them I wouldn't have thought. Mine does have almost 400k on it but. Happy to remove it and send it across if you want.

[El_Freddo]

Thanks Ben, Im hoping its not the coil pack - Ive been told these are usually quite robust, but with a possible +480k on the clock anything is possible. Just ordered two sets of leads from partsouq for less than I could get a set of aftermarket leads over here at retail!! So hopefully thatll solve the issue. If not everything will point to the coil pack.

Got two as Ill swap the leads in my MILs SG as its doing the same thing but is way harder to detect with the auto.

I forgot to bitch about the over sensitive throttle in this thing! The point where youre on or off throttle is so touchy you have to be on your game the whole time if not cruising at medium revs or powering on through the gears. Engine braking seems to effectively stop at about 1500rpm or there abouts, rolling on the throttle puts a wad of power back into the gearbox which can create quite a jerky ride ;(

Ive learnt to have a little bit of pressure on the clutch pedal in these situations and slow manoeuvring as it seems to allow enough slip to kill the jerking around but still provide enough grip that you can move forward without slipping the clutch. Its weird.

And its turning circle is something left to be desired. Our Gen 3 Pajeros have a better turning circle than this Liberty does. Its caught me out twice so far.

Other than that I really enjoy driving this car - its easy on fuel, has some good power for a factory setup and sounds mint from the drivers seat, its probably a bit whispy from the outside but I dont care!

Cheers

Bennie

[RX25SE]

Gen IIIs are cool, I have a soft spot for them. I some ways I like them more than the GenIVs

Have you tried measuring the lead resistances Bennie? If one is a lot higher than the others, it can cause a miss.
Same with cool packs, stick an ohmmeter in each coil to measure the secondary side resistance, they are normally high (like kilo ohms) but should be similar. I'll look up the specs when I get a chance.

[RX25SE]

Primary side is 0.73ohm between terminals 1 and 2. Same resistance for terminals 2 and 4. Terminals are numbered 4-3-2-1 when looking at the coil.

Secondary is 12.8k ohm between each pair of ignition lead posts.

[El_Freddo]

Thanks for those figures Jase, but I can’t for the life of me find my multi metre. I’m at the point of conceding defeat and buying a new one - at which point I’ll find my old one the next day knowing Murphy…

So the verdict is in. While waiting for new spark leads to come in I swapped in the coil pack from my MIL’s SG to see if it really was the spark leads as her foz was doing basically the same. So it turns out ol’ Basil runs awesome with new plugs, old leads and a swapped in coil pack. But runs crap with medium throttle (and seems heat dependant), new plugs, NEW leads and the old coil pack. Swapped the borrowed coil pack back in and he’s got all the berries there again.

Ben, PM sent about that coil pack offer. I’ll see if I can get one locally for a reasonable (yeah right!) price with lower km. This coil pack presumably did 484,000km before this issue arose. I need to suss out if this is the original engine - something I hadn’t thought about until I checked out the owners manual in the MY wagon we just got.

Also found it interesting that a number of the spark lead packaging bags were labelled as made in China with a factory parts sticker as a genuine item:



I’m not sure he I feel about this ^

Cheers

Bennie

[duncanm]

also check there's not arcing on the outside of the coil pack between a plug and mounting bolt. Have a good look and give all the surfaces a good clean.

 

My old EJ25 had that problem at one point... developed a carbon trace that caused a misfire at weird loads and heat. It was easy to diagnose in the end, though, as you could see and hear the spark bridge over with the bonnet open.

 

Partsouq has leads if you can wait. https://partsouq.com...ll?q=22451AA720

[El_Freddo]

Thanks Duncan, I’ll look into that arcing idea and see what comes of it.

And those leads ARE from Partsouq!!

Cheers

Bennie

[allpaw4]

Is it just me, or did they use a black permanent marker and put a line through the Made in Japan text on the OEM sticker?

[El_Freddo]

Nope, not just you, that’s exactly what they did!

So, new “development” tonight. Got a clutch issue that initially started out as second gear being difficult quickly turned into needing to almost perfectly rev match for each gear change - but once in first I could use the clutch to disengage enough to hold the vehicle stationary with the brakes. The idle was laboured and lower than normal, if on a level surface and you let off the brakes but held the clutch in, I’d start rolling forward very slowly.

I dunno what I’m in for on this one yet, first suspect was a dead spigot bearing. But it might be something more sinister. The ute point at the clutch pedal hasn’t changed when taking off in first.

Looks like I’ll be sliding the box back off the engine to have a look at what’s going on…

All good, I needed to take the brumby for a spin tomorrow anyway, it just takes away from project stuff on the weekend ;(

Cheers

Bennie

[duncanm]

sounds like when my throwout arm snapped. Was easy to diagnose as it felt all wobbly from outside of box.

 

 

 http://www.subyclub....-22#entry622997

 

EDIT: as Barb's indicates below.. mine did have a period of 'about to go' low pedal engagement before it finally said no thanks.

[Barbbachello]

Push type box id be inclined to say the clutch fork has snapped or is about to.