626 replies to this topic

[allpaw4]

Agree with sbv. Get the 65c. Walbros are a good pump, but the receiver requires a little modification to allow fitment, and then it is noisy.

[AB501UT!0N]

65c it is then and thanks for the info guys anyone know about valves or rings for a B4 engine?

[sbv]

Or there's this which is basically a 65C

http://forum.liberty...5 jacks#p305494

[AB501UT!0N]

Or there's this which is basically a 65C

http://forum.liberty...5 jacks#p305494

Looks like the way to go and thanks for the link and question? Should I rebuild my engine cause my rings and valves are on the way out or engine swap?

[allpaw4]

Rings means pistons could be suspect (and the only way to confirm the pistons/rings/valves issue is to open the motor up and look). Would replace the rings and pistons with something better if it was the only problem, but valves get expensive. Like 20 or 30 bucks each expensive from memory. Considering how many of the damn things there are in a DOHC suby motor, an engine swap might be an idea.

 

At the end of the day, it comes down to how big your wallet is and how much of it you want to hand over to someone.

 

I would be tempted to get a secondhand long motor and bolt all your stuff to it, which allows you to slowly build a screamer out of the old one. New pistons, big valve STi heads, new rods, bearings, etc.

[AB501UT!0N]

Rings means pistons could be suspect (and the only way to confirm the pistons/rings/valves issue is to open the motor up and look). Would replace the rings and pistons with something better if it was the only problem, but valves get expensive. Like 20 or 30 bucks each expensive from memory. Considering how many of the damn things there are in a DOHC suby motor, an engine swap might be an idea.
 
At the end of the day, it comes down to how big your wallet is and how much of it you want to hand over to someone.
 
I would be tempted to get a secondhand long motor and bolt all your stuff to it, which allows you to slowly build a screamer out of the old one. New pistons, big valve STi heads, new rods, bearings, etc.

Thats some good advice mate and I am going to go window shopping and see if I can find a b4 motor or a forged long motor cause my hand is so far into the cookie jar I cannot pull out!

[AB501UT!0N]

So it looks like I'm getting a bh5 long block and installing it myself cause 2k for a mechanic to do it is 2k I dont have so I'm going to give it a shot but first I need to buy some tools and what do you guys think I will need? Thanks Chris also links to websites would be great

[RacerX]

Could invest in a Ryobi cordless
And some deep impact sockets their great and u can keep expaning coz the ryobi one range all use the same battery

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

[allpaw4]

Do it right and get a set of ratchet spanners. Stubbys are useful, as they get into tight places (you'll just need to crack the bolts with something more substantial). You'll need at minimum 10, 12, 13, 14, 16, 17 and 19mm. I find a set is cheaper because you will use almost every one in the set.

Get a wobble extension bar for the socket set too, the 3 or 4 degrees movement it gives will be a life saver for the gearbox bolts. Not explicitly needed, but helps.

Pin punch set for knocking out the pins holding the driveshafts to the gearbox.

You will also want a quality set of axle stands unless you have access to a hoist.

 

 

White electrical tape and a black permanant marker. MOST IMPORTANT! Label everything as you unplug/disconnect.

Camera helps too.

 

 

Make sure you get the crank and cam pulley with the sensor rings changed over too - If you get it all done and it still wont start, the pulleys are different. I pulled my hair out for 3 days trying to find what went wrong, then found out about that after calling S & J Auto. Trap for young players lol

 

 

When you start the job, first thing you need to do is start the car and then unplug the fuel pump. That will remove any pressure in the fuel lines.

Also, think about getting the AC de-gassed before you start the job. Its a hell of a lot easier to just disconnect the AC lines off the compressor than try and remove the compressor off its mount (as one of the lifting points on the engine is the AC mount bracket). It can be done without disconnecting it, but you will have scratched and bleeding knuckles as well as 4 - 6 hours worth of wasted time. The bolts are a prick. Trust me on this, unless you are really skimp on money, get it de-gassed and disconnected.

Oh, and dont use ring spanners on these bolts - once you get them half way undone, you will have the head of the spanner fowl on something around it, and you'll have to do it back up to get the spanner back off.

 

I wouldnt worry about buying a rattle gun just for this job though - theres not enough bolts where you have the room to get the gun into to use it, just get a piece of steel pipe slightly larger than the breaker bar and about a metre long - that should give you more than enough leverage to crack things like engine mount bolts.

 

If you want to have a bit of a glimpse of what happened to mine, jump across to my build thread - theres a few pics there of mine mid-change.

[AB501UT!0N]

Socket set, ring spanners, open end spanners, breaker bar, 32mm socket for the CV shafts, a wobble bar for the tight spots, allen key set, screw drivers and a giant fuckoff sledge hammer lol.

 

Air tools and a compressor are a good investment. They make the job so much easier and you'll keep on using  them.

 

There would be more for the tool list but I can't think of them atm.

 

Thanks for the info and I am creating a list of tools and if you have links can you post them Thanks Chris

 

Could invest in a Ryobi cordless
And some deep impact sockets their great and u can keep expaning coz the ryobi one range all use the same battery

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

 

For some things it would be useful even for wheel nuts before I tighten them with a torque wrench

 

Do it right and get a set of ratchet spanners. Stubbys are useful, as they get into tight places (you'll just need to crack the bolts with something more substantial). You'll need at minimum 10, 12, 13, 14, 16, 17 and 19mm. I find a set is cheaper because you will use almost every one in the set.

Get a wobble extension bar for the socket set too, the 3 or 4 degrees movement it gives will be a life saver for the gearbox bolts. Not explicitly needed, but helps.

Pin punch set for knocking out the pins holding the driveshafts to the gearbox.

You will also want a quality set of axle stands unless you have access to a hoist.

 

 

White electrical tape and a black permanant marker. MOST IMPORTANT! Label everything as you unplug/disconnect.

Camera helps too.

 

 

Make sure you get the crank and cam pulley with the sensor rings changed over too - If you get it all done and it still wont start, the pulleys are different. I pulled my hair out for 3 days trying to find what went wrong, then found out about that after calling S & J Auto. Trap for young players lol

 

 

When you start the job, first thing you need to do is start the car and then unplug the fuel pump. That will remove any pressure in the fuel lines.

Also, think about getting the AC de-gassed before you start the job. Its a hell of a lot easier to just disconnect the AC lines off the compressor than try and remove the compressor off its mount (as one of the lifting points on the engine is the AC mount bracket). It can be done without disconnecting it, but you will have scratched and bleeding knuckles as well as 4 - 6 hours worth of wasted time. The bolts are a prick. Trust me on this, unless you are really skimp on money, get it de-gassed and disconnected.

Oh, and dont use ring spanners on these bolts - once you get them half way undone, you will have the head of the spanner fowl on something around it, and you'll have to do it back up to get the spanner back off.

 

I wouldnt worry about buying a rattle gun just for this job though - theres not enough bolts where you have the room to get the gun into to use it, just get a piece of steel pipe slightly larger than the breaker bar and about a metre long - that should give you more than enough leverage to crack things like engine mount bolts.

 

If you want to have a bit of a glimpse of what happened to mine, jump across to my build thread - theres a few pics there of mine mid-change.

 

That is some great info mate and I really appreciate it and my ac is already out of gas im pretty sure but I shall find out cause that would save alot of time! and below is a list of the parts so far I think I will get

 

Also which of these kits would be the best or link me to another site Thanks guys

 

http://www.superchea...id=215072#Combo

http://www.superchea...rom=70501#Cross

http://www.superchea...rom=70403#Cross

http://www.superchea...rom=70403#Cross

http://www.superchea...rom=70403#Cross

http://www.superchea...rom=70403#Cross

 

 

http://www.kennards....d Winches&lvl=2

Also I already have a small socket set and every screw driver known to man

[RacerX]

https://www.masters....ll-cabinet-87pk http://www.bunnings....ol-kit_p6117883

[AB501UT!0N]

Thanks for the links and it looks like my mate is going to help me do the swap over a weekend and I shall buy the long block tomorrow and then wait for it to arrive!

Also does anyone know where to get new carpet for Subaru b4's?

[U-Shell]

I received this tool kit for Christmas a couple years ago and it has been fantastic.

http://www.superchea...rom=70403#Cross

People might cringe their faces because its a Supercheap Auto product, but in the two years I've had mine, I've used nearly every day without fail. The only problem I've had was stretching one of the 17 or 19 sockets trying to crack the bottom nut on my old struts when I was changing them to Bilstiens. That was with a 600mm Breaker bar with a 1.2m trolley jack pipe attached to it with my full weight on the very end. The ratchet are of decent quality and have put up with everything I've thrown at them. I've broken two Sidchrome ratchets in the time I've had this kit lol.

 

As for car stands. Even though they say 3000Kg, having used them before, they are pretty flimsy. I'm lucky enough to have a set of truck stand now an after using something a little more sturdy, I think it's worth the extra coin. Especially when you underneath the car, hanging of a breaker bar, smashing a spanner with a hammer etc. to feel safe that the stands aren't going to roll over on you haha.

 

If you lived a little bit closer, I would just chuck all my tools in the work van and come help you for the weekend! As for carpet. Have you tried giving them a decent steam clean with a Rug Doctor or equivalent. Sometimes they need to be left to dry and then re steam cleaned.

[AB501UT!0N]

I received this tool kit for Christmas a couple years ago and it has been fantastic.

http://www.superchea...rom=70403#Cross

People might cringe their faces because its a Supercheap Auto product, but in the two years I've had mine, I've used nearly every day without fail. The only problem I've had was stretching one of the 17 or 19 sockets trying to crack the bottom nut on my old struts when I was changing them to Bilstiens. That was with a 600mm Breaker bar with a 1.2m trolley jack pipe attached to it with my full weight on the very end. The ratchet are of decent quality and have put up with everything I've thrown at them. I've broken two Sidchrome ratchets in the time I've had this kit lol.

 

As for car stands. Even though they say 3000Kg, having used them before, they are pretty flimsy. I'm lucky enough to have a set of truck stand now an after using something a little more sturdy, I think it's worth the extra coin. Especially when you underneath the car, hanging of a breaker bar, smashing a spanner with a hammer etc. to feel safe that the stands aren't going to roll over on you haha.

 

If you lived a little bit closer, I would just chuck all my tools in the work van and come help you for the weekend! As for carpet. Have you tried giving them a decent steam clean with a Rug Doctor or equivalent. Sometimes they need to be left to dry and then re steam cleaned.

 

Thanks for the link mate and that is what Im looking for and thanks for the offer I really appreciate it and yes I have had the carpets cleaned but they are just not up to my ocd standard

 

Also bad news I bought the long block but then they store said that they could only deliver it to a work address with a fork lift! so that has been canceled and back to the drawing board

[allpaw4]

Just as a precaution, use a socket set with extension bar to crack the first AC piping bolt. If there's still refrigerant in there, it will quite happily freeze whatever part of you that happens to be in the line of fire.
It should be mentioned that its highly illegal to release refrigerants to open air and huge penalties apply if you get caught. So if you do, don't advertise it here. Best to just say it was done professionally.

[AB501UT!0N]

Just as a precaution, use a socket set with extension bar to crack the first AC piping bolt. If there's still refrigerant in there, it will quite happily freeze whatever part of you that happens to be in the line of fire.
It should be mentioned that its highly illegal to release refrigerants to open air and huge penalties apply if you get caught. So if you do, don't advertise it here. Best to just say it was done professionally.

Thanks for the info and I would get it done professionaly but I think I dont have any ac gas anyways! Any who has anyone on here replaced engine internals and how hard is it cause that looks to be my only option any ideas would be great! Thanks Chris

[allpaw4]

Replacing internals is not a quick fix, unless you farm it out to someone who does it all the time. And then its all of a sudden not a cheap exercise. Better off talking to someone like ichibans or an importer about local stock of the EJ208's. I know several places I was talking to about it were willing to ship via courier to a residential address, and their prices depended on how much of the package you wanted. For a bare long motor it should be getting pretty cheap.

[AB501UT!0N]

Replacing internals is not a quick fix, unless you farm it out to someone who does it all the time. And then its all of a sudden not a cheap exercise. Better off talking to someone like ichibans or an importer about local stock of the EJ208's. I know several places I was talking to about it were willing to ship via courier to a residential address, and their prices depended on how much of the package you wanted. For a bare long motor it should be getting pretty cheap.

 

I shall give Ichiban a call on my lunch break and also if you remember what were the other places called? Thanks for al your help

[AB501UT!0N]

So after a lot of planning I finally have a bh5 long block in my car port ready to be installed this coming weekend Also did I mention I have a lot of Blitzen parts on there way to me so pics coming soon! Also the only thing left I need now is new pully belts! Has anyone got any links for these at all? Thanks Guys