497 replies to this topic

[Barbbachello]

Was the new clutch an exedy as well? Rotten luck if it was and the old one was fine. 

[duncanm]

Nah - new one was Clutch Industries (Aus).

 

I should have read the fine print -- the HD version (R1916NHD) is rated at 365Nm and would have been a better choice. - still pretty cheap, $300.

[Barbbachello]

Yeah Clutch Industries will be your problem. Used to be good then went down the toilet once the bean counters took over. Xtreme or Exedy are generally safe bets

[duncanm]

Exedy is about $300 too, so I think I'll do that when I can find some time to change it again.

[El_Freddo]

Rookie mistake throwing out used parts before knowing you don’t actually need it!

And an Exedy is $300 more on top of the $300 clutch kit you’ve already purchased ;(

I hope you find the coin and the time to swap it over soon, you don’t want to toast your flywheel from overheating it with clutch slip.

Cheers

Bennie

[duncanm]

I'm not that miffed about the cost.. it is what it is. My time is more valuable - having the old parts lying around after the install doesn't really help. No way I'd be mix and matching different brand new clutch and old pressure plate with the risk it won't work and have yet another cycle of remove and install.

 

Doesn't slip in normal usage.. just if I give it the beans. 

 

I'm as tight as the next bloke, but having just rego'd the thing -- its about $850/yr just to be legal on the road in NSW, and that doesn't count added costs of insurance, fuel or consumables like oil and tyres. So 100k+ km and 5 or so years out of a $300 or $600 (2x) clutch is peanuts.

[duncanm]

Right - so I need to replace this clutch as its a bit tiresome not being able to use full throttle.

My last standard exedy was fine -- but maybe I lucked out and it was a good-'un.

 

Will a standard do ok for me, or should I up-spec to a (sports-tuff) HD ?

 

Note the outback has the smaller diameter (225 vs. 230mm on a rex, for example), but I do want to preserve my ageing gearbox. 

[El_Freddo]

Why not just replace the worn clutch disc?

The pressure plate is obviously still doing its job properly and is up to the task. There’s really no need to change it out for a new one, especially since your objective is to maintain your gearbox.

That’s what I’d do, but I’m also not one that grew up playing with performance cars dropping new parts in for upgrades.

Cheers

Bennie

[RX25SE]

So 9 months with a slipping clutch if you nail it? You must be a patient man Duncan!

If you don't mind the heavier pedal feel, then maybe the HD is a safer bet.
If you go STD, can you confirm the part number of the old STD one you had?

When I first test drove my RB, the clutch was nice and light (felt like stock) but before I picked it up it needed the gearbox removed and the 'Subaru specialist' workshop recommended fitting the Exedy HD as they last longer and the pedal was supposed to be 'slightly' firmer than stock. The pedal ended up being quite heavy IMO, I put up with it for a few years before I'd had enough and replaced it with a STD Exedy. Pedal is better, but not as light as stock which suggests Exedy may use a higher clamping pressure plate even on the stock replacement.

[Barbbachello]

Not a job you want to be doing twice. From memory youre running the push type outhouse box? 

 

Full replacement kit with stock turbo gear, machine the flywheel and a new clutch fork. The push type ones like to shit themselves. You should be able to upgrade everything to a later model turbo box spec. The 5 speed turbos went push type in 06 iirc in Impreza and all gen 4 preface turbos




 

[duncanm]

push type outhouse box - with the smaller (225mm) diameter and lower (OEM) clamp force, which is why I'm questioning if I should go HD.

 

 

Full replacement kit with stock turbo gear, machine the flywheel and a new clutch fork. The push type ones like to shit themselves. You should be able to upgrade everything to a later model turbo box spec. The 5 speed turbos went push type in 06 iirc in Impreza and all gen 4 preface turbos

 

Thanks for confirming that I can pretty much bolt on any 5sp push setup, early or late model.

 

I'm a bit worried the pedal might be a bit hard with the turbo clutch if I don't change the fork ?

 

 

Why not just replace the worn clutch disc?

The pressure plate is obviously still doing its job properly and is up to the task. There’s really no need to change it out for a new one, especially since your objective is to maintain your gearbox.

 

I'm not sure what clamp force the clutch industries jobbie I have now has. It seems super-light underfoot, which makes me think its pretty low. Clutch has slipped from new, its not worn out.

 

 

TLDR

options are

1/ exedy FJK-7115

2/ exedy FJK-7115HD

3/ new fork (?) and an exedy FJK-7683 

[Barbbachello]

I've personally never felt a real difference going from stock to HD clutch

[El_Freddo]

Fair call, I thought you already had an exedy clutch in there.

I’ll leave you guys to but it out as I don’t have any experience with HD clutches!

Cheers

Bennie

[allpaw4]

Same as Barbs, never felt a big difference between stock and HD. Changing a complete clutch design is gonna be painful I'd imagine, probably easier to just put the right clutch in and go HD. Def's recommend Exedy, although when pushed, they can still slip if you're worried about breaking boxes.

So far my 5spd is handling the STi motor no issues, just be gentle on the shifts and you shouldn't have issues. Got 280k on the stock 5spd now, and it's been pushing decent power through it for at least 110 thou now. (Launch control has been used multiple times as well, yet the box is still seemingly happy)

Be gentle to it and it'll last fine. Shock loading is what breaks things.

Cheers,
Ben

[duncanm]

yeh - not too worried about the box.  It now has 340k on it. The last ~120k with the '208.

[duncanm]

Added some practical bling a few weeks back.. I like them. Good for left foot braking and heel toe action.

 Pedals.jpg   80.01KB   1 downloads

[allpaw4]

Looks good! Although would it not have been designed that the 2 pedals with angles are the brake/clutch and the full rectangular pedal being the accelerator?
That said, I can see the current arrangement working a lot better for the heel toe duties!

How'd you go with the clutch? Which way did you decide to go?

Cheers,
Ben

[duncanm]

Think I've got em the right way. If you use the angled pedal for brake, left foot braking becomes a problem (no corner on the pedal).

Also note lack of grip on accelerator and there's a vertical wall under the RHS of brake to stop your foot going under.

Exedy sports tuff in the boot ready to fit. Might attack it this weekend, though I have a bit on.

[duncanm]

small win this morning.

 

I've been having a fairly obvious, worsening on-boost noise over the last week or so. No real loss of boost pressure or obvious over-fuelling, but a loud hissing noise when on boost. I had visions in my mind of shot primary turbo, leaky blow off valve, secondary bypass valve or other complicated TT things.

 

Spent an hour on Sunday poking about and not finding anything obvious. Did a smoke test and thought I saw some coming out near the primary to TMIC hose.  I re-aligned both TMIC hoses (silicone) and checked the alloy inlet flanges and blowoff valve gaskets. A little bit of hylomar smeared on them just to be sure.

 

Drove in to work this morning and all the noises have gone. Win at $0.  Can't complain about that.

 

Still haven't gotten around to the clutch, though.  The new clutch is sitting on the shelf mocking me every time I go in the garage.