497 replies to this topic

[El_Freddo]

And how much lift are you running?

Cheers

Bennie

[duncanm]

And how much lift are you running?

Cheers

Bennie

not enough - stock outback.

[El_Freddo]

not enough - stock outback.

Yeah I didn’t recall you putting lift in. You should do it! You know Nachaluva (Subi Lift Oz) will look after you!

Cheers

Bennie

[crjohnson]

hey duncan did you ever get a wheel alignment after doing your lca rear bushes on the front suspension? I just noticed that those mounts you picked up from the wreckers aren't normal outback mounts, did you run those or change the bushes into your outback mounts? I've installed the same bushes in my outback recently but went full sideways offset, not the 5-o'clock type position. 

[duncanm]

hey duncan did you ever get a wheel alignment after doing your lca rear bushes on the front suspension? I just noticed that those mounts you picked up from the wreckers aren't normal outback mounts, did you run those or change the bushes into your outback mounts? I've installed the same bushes in my outback recently but went full sideways offset, not the 5-o'clock type position. 

 

I didn't use those mounts - just bolted the LCA's to my (relatively new) Febest rubber mounts, which are the outback style with more vertical offset.

 

As you say - those other liberty ones wouldn't fit.

 

I'm guessing if you can dial out excess toe, then the 3/9-o'clock position for those is just fine, and gives you even more castor... but I'm no expert.

[duncanm]

Some JDM momo goodness arrived last week.

Thanks to LukeFranky for the tips on retrofitting the cruise to the JDM metalwork

Wheel is minty, even if the ride needs a wash.

 IMG_20190807_165156.jpg   137.01KB   5 downloads

[duncanm]

long time nothing happening.. just purchased some inner tie rod ends, as the steering's getting sloppy.

 

Coming up for the next 100k service since the swap - 350k on the odo, 200-ish on the engine.

 

Time for a general freshen up - rocker gaskets, engine mounts, maybe replace clutch while I'm in there.

 

Other than that, she still runs sweet.

[duncanm]

Some car servicing, since my usual boxing day to new-years' activities have been curtailed.

 

New tie rod ends went in, I also replaced the timing belt, idlers etc

 

Its been 100k of trouble-free motoring with the 'unreliable' TT donk since the swap.

 

230k on the engine now.

 

I baulked on replacing the rocker cover gaskets - the engine will need to come out, so I'll wait till I need a new clutch.

[Barbbachello]

Shouldnt have to remove the engine to do the gaskets? Bit awkward but defs doable with battery/washer bottle and airbox removed. 

[duncanm]

Shouldnt have to remove the engine to do the gaskets? Bit awkward but defs doable with battery/washer bottle and airbox removed. 

I reckon its possible.. but its looks like a real bitch of a job, especially with the outback body lift (engine lower in bay)

 

I had all the airbox side gubbins out - and I didn't like the look of it.

[Barbbachello]

Certainly doable in a gen 2 outback with a twin cam. COP might make it a touch more annoying but absolutely doable. Ratchet spanner is your best friend. Ideally would have removed engine for the TB and done it then  

[duncanm]

Had wandering steering, and a squeak developed in the RH front.  I couldn't detect any wobble in the wheel when jacked up, so didn't think it was a wheel bearing, but all the noises and behaviour said it was.

 

Bearing is $70 odd, plus there's the whole press-in press-out malarky... so I've punted on a wrecker job for now.

 

Only problem is, of course, my BH is a very early model, so has the older style of ABS tone ring on the hub (not the driveshaft), which is not very common.

 

Went to pick n payless and found an SF Foz with what felt like a good hub.

 

Popped it on this afternoon. The old one was completely rooted. Bearing had collapsed and once it was off the driveshaft, flopped all over the place.   I'm still surprised I couldn't detect any significant movement with the usual technique. 

 

Old hub is probably too rooted for a new bearing anyway.

[Barbbachello]

Any gen 1,2,GC,GF ABS hub will also work with that setup 

[duncanm]

yup -- problem is, of course, they're all getting pretty bloody old now.

 

I might source another pair - or maybe even newer hubs + shafts + ABS sensors - and replace the bearings at leisure for when my next front hub craps out.

[allpaw4]

Can the entire assembly be swapped out for the newer style setup? Or at least be retro fitted to just the front?

[El_Freddo]

yup -- problem is, of course, they're all getting pretty bloody old now.

The problem isn’t that they’re getting old. The problem is they’re getting harder to find. It seems easier to find Brumby parts than it is to find Gen1 parts (or L series parts)!

Cheers

Bennie

[duncanm]

Can the entire assembly be swapped out for the newer style setup? Or at least be retro fitted to just the front?

 

yeh - that's what I was thinking.

 

hubs + sensors + shafts (or at least outer CV joint with tone ring).

 

Should be plug and prey.

 

I know the ABS unit is happy with either sensor, as I'm actually running the ABS unit off the half cut, which had the tone rings on the shafts.

[El_Freddo]

The abs sensors are probably no different to the crank and cam angle sensors! I’m using a cam angle sensor as a reed switch/speed sensor on my brumby for the aftermarket cruise control - I lost the first unit somehow.

I’m betting the later model hub and driveshaft with the tone ring will fit no worries.

Cheers

Bennie

[duncanm]

bugger...

 

clutch fell to the floor this morning on the way to work..  

 

got the car home, figuring the master/hose or slave had gone or there was just air in the system.. but nope.  It seems the release fork (or a throwout bearing ear?) has lunched itself. Lever is crooked and loose, but I can't see what's going on in there.   This is an NA style push clutch.

 

Half way into removing all the ancillaries to pull the donk -- anyone have any tips for removing the AC compressor without lifting the intake ?  There's a bolt back there under the intake that can't be got to. Alternative is a another longer bolt through the bracket, but it's hemmed in by an oil line.

 

If I have to lift the intake, I'll just pull the lines off instead.