489 replies to this topic

[duncanm]

yeh - just a rattle can job for now. Plan was to do a 1k acrylic top coat with cans, too (just so it wasn't white!).

 

I think I'll either go professional (in which case they'll need to work out what to do with this undercoat), or if I proceed with the 1k acrylic, then I'll be resanding and recoating before the topcoat.

 

I've got a liberty front bar - tossing up whether I fix it and then go all out with the liberty fogs, or just go back to my outback grill - this is all minor stuff at the moment. Priority for now is to get it roadworthy (exhaust, wheel alignment, blue slip, and lights).

 

I like to think I'm smart - but I know I'm not much of a mechanic

[CRUISN]

 

I like to think I'm smart - but I know I'm not much of a mechanic

 

For "not much of a mechanic" you've done a top job so far.

[duncanm]

You cannot run Liberty bar as the flares dont clip in . The Outback bar is wider to accomodate the flares. The reo is also wider on Outback than Liberty.

 

ah ok, thanks. Scotch that idea then.  Another part for the bin/giveaway/sell-off.

 

Now I need to work out how to make the outback grill less fugly. Lucky the legacy grill was a relatively quick spray can job.

[Marv]

yeh - just a rattle can job for now. Plan was to do a 1k acrylic top coat with cans, too (just so it wasn't white!).

 

I think I'll either go professional (in which case they'll need to work out what to do with this undercoat), or if I proceed with the 1k acrylic, then I'll be resanding and recoating before the topcoat.

 

Don't use cans for top-coat, please please please! You CAN get a good finish out of it, but it will stick out like a sore thumb next to the rest of your paintwork.

 

If I were in your situation (and remembering how you wanted the OBK kit done grey) i'd go get a quote for having all your body moulds done, plus your bonnet. If you still have your stock bonnet I'd put that back on as a short term fix, pull all the body moulds (incl bumpers), strip them of all electrics and reo/clips, then drop everything at the painters in 1 job lot. 

 

If you get quotes you feel are too expensive and you don't mind buying the paint stripper/primer/thinners/top coat you can always bring it up to Umina and I'll paint the bonnet (and give you some tips about the kit - only reason I wouldn't take on the kit is due to me having a full-size American car pulled apart in my garage so space is non-existent). 

 

[duncanm]

Marv

 

thanks for the info.. I am a bit wary of rattle-canning the bonnet (knowing it'll only be a temporary fix). Just trying to keep the outwards cash-flow below the level of oversight committee (aka the wife) visibility at the moment.

 

When funds allow I'll ask around for a few quotes (as you say - job lot. Take the bonnet and guards off for them) and see what pops up.

[Marv]

If you think it'll be more than a couple of weeks (especially if it's living outdoors), I'd get some Bunnings rattle cans and cover it now. ASAP. 

 

They're going to have to wipe it back to steel to avoid having moisture issues anyway. Just mask the underside as respraying that area is a PITA.

[duncanm]

Marv,

 

I didn't strip back the original paint - just roughed it up and there's also some bog in a couple of dings.

 

Still worth covering it? Or will a painter just strip it back anyway?

 

 

In other news, new 'zorst fitted. 2 1/4" centre pipe (H6) with 2.5" diffback and straight-through muffler. Diffback is this size in case I want to go bigger on the centre-pipe later. 

 

Meaty!  (oh.. and you can hear the DW fuel pump kick in before I start up.  Still need to connect the fuel pump controller so its not 100% all the time).

 

 zorst.mp3   367.35KB   9 downloads

 

 

[Marv]

Don't assume they'll do a thorough job - smash shops work on job turnover. I'd seal it up.

[duncanm]

ok - thanks. Will do.

[OuTTback]

Mate looking good. Totally worthwhile doing this conversion. You're braver than I was....I had help! Just on your lighting issue, try swapping the ADM fog light switch with the JDM one. They look the same but they aint (on my car anyway).

 

Also, I had issues with the TMIC striking on the transmission firewall bracket and it needed to be lifted up with a few back yard mods. The TMIC wasn't sealing with the scoop shroud also as the engine sits lower in the bay due to the lifting rails of the Outback.

[duncanm]

Thanks Outtback - I'll check the scoop sealing tomorrow. It makes sense that the lift will screw the spacing somewhere.

 

I checked the HID levellers again tonight with the car up against a wall.. they do work, but its a small change in angle and easy to miss.

 

Only remaining electrical issue is the RH parker - may just be the bulb, it looked ok to me, but I didn't test it.

 

Adjusted the low/high range lever in the car - but I still  get popout, so I need to pull the I/C and check the pitch mount and adjustment at the other end of the range shift cable.

 

The swap has been surprisingly straightforward. It is a lot of work, but not being in a rush and attacking one step at a time has made it all pretty painless (so far). The most daunting part is looking at the car with the main loom out (and hence everything else!) and thinking 'what have I done?!'

 

The extra power, especially that low-down grunt, is some kind of awesome!

[sbv]

Looks like you've done a decent job of this. Enjoy the new found bottom end torque. That's one thing I love about the TT.

Now you just need a curve like this

[duncanm]

Had a chat to the local smash shop about spraying the bonnet. He asked ask the right questions and the 1k needs to come off. He gave me what I think is a reasonable price for colour match and inside and out of bonnet - so I'll top off the undercoat I have for now, then strip back again for a proper spray at some later date.

[Adam]

FYI http://www.subyclub....26th-july-2014/

[duncanm]

Cheers Adam.. would like to rock up, but the kids have Saturday booked up.

 

Blue slip done this morning for the engine number change. Got a laugh out of the guy at the garage doing the inspection.

 

  Him: "you do realise you've put in a 2 litre and it used to be 2.5".

 

  Me: "Umm, yes sir, I do realise that."

 

Thought I'd better post an engine bay completion photo:

 

 

 

RH parker was a blown bulb, typical.

 

All electrics good with one exception (which I discovered today). - CD stacker doesn't work.

 

I presume that's because the front loom doesn't carry some required signals to the left door loom where the CD stacker connects, or I've left off a plug. Simple to get to, so not a big issue.

 

Oh, and the cruise control is still an ongoing project when I get the time.

 

 

The high range pop out has me stumped. I pulled the IC and checked the pitch rod. Was reading about the differences in the Outback suspension for the lift, and it turns out the pitch rod is ~5mm longer - the legacy one fitted ok (there's a big slot on the transmission side, so it can accomodate a fair range of lengths) and it looked beefier so I had that fitted, but I replaced it in the vain hope this was the problem. Also snugged up the cable mounts on the transmission. There is no adjustment for cable length at the transmission end.

 

This seemed to improve things, but it still pops out.  I've adjusted the interior cable end again, and packed the spring with a washer to provide more positive engagement. Maybe that will do the trick, as it doesn't take much weight on the lever to prevent the pop-out.

[Barbbachello]

For Beckers when you read this post: hurry up and start your damn conversion/build thread.

[aekOne]

neato!

[Matt]

Such a quick conversion...good work mate!!

[Morgan]

No other issues with the blue slip? Funny - bigger displacement isn't always better

[duncanm]

Nope - no issues. He seemed genuinely surprised I'd put a 'smaller' engine in.

Fastest $27 I'd ever handed over.