497 replies to this topic

[93tzlegacy]

from memory the cooler bracket was already missing unfortunatey , i might have another on the shelf though, ill have to take a look. 

thanks, Ben.

[Cam.]

Get a boost gauge happening asap

[duncanm]

from memory the cooler bracket was already missing unfortunatey , i might have another on the shelf though, ill have to take a look. 
thanks, Ben.

 
cheers Ben.
 
I was going to have a go at fabbing one from a spare piece of Al checkerplate I have lying around... if that fails, I'll chase you up.
 
Now.. boost gauge is on my list... but mulling over stock-looking location. Something like a subtle DIN mount.
 
I love the look of these, but $$.


EDIT: Ben - I just had a closer look at your original ebay listing. You are right - no bracket.

[Jimbo]

Looks like she's coming along nicely mate! The grazed knuckles and bleeding hands are worth it in the end. Provided your TT doesn't explode. You should come along to the TT Tech Day we have coming up, and you can learn the innards of these foul beasts. A very good mix of knowledgable people will be there, would be mad to miss it!

Also, need moar pics!

[allpaw4]

For a DIN mounting, you'll need 52mm gauges. Have a look through my build thread - Thnkb4. I looked into the 3 gauge holders, but nothing fits quite right. I ended up just wrapping a little bit of black electrical tape around each gauge so they fit snuggly. I planned to fill the gaps with space foam and paint, but as per my usual, never got to it. It just wasn't very high on the urgency list. If you only want a single gauge, and don't smoke, removing the ash tray is a good location that's pretty well hidden. 52mm for there too.

[duncanm]

Ben - you shouldn't have made me look at that thread. The first page or so has given me the shivers.

 

On the good news front, AC leak tested and regassed this arvo. All seems to be working ok, so I didn't f' up the connections and the compressor off the cut was good.

[allpaw4]

Haha, no stress man, keep the vac lines & BBOD in good nick and you should be right - also, keep good quality fuel up to it. Plus, you're running an import motor, which people seem to have less issues with from what I've seen. I've been keeping a keen eye on this thread, you're doing really well!

[duncanm]

yeh yeh - I'll see what I can do.

 

Flipped the pinion spline over by one notch to the right last night.  I'd put the wheel on crooked the first time.

 

Now it points straight!

 

Booked in for wheel alignment Saturday to adjust the toe (it'll be wrong with the new rack) and check I didn't fork the camber (I took a bolt out during the swap and didn't mark it first, doh!)

[JDWhiteWRX]

My steering wheel is still a little crooked, been a bit too busy to fix it lately. I maxed my camber out full negative with the bolts, she goes around the corners very nice for a family wagon.

[duncanm]

My steering wheel is still a little crooked, been a bit too busy to fix it lately. I maxed my camber out full negative with the bolts, she goes around the corners very nice for a family wagon.

 

do it!.. it was a 20min job once the car was up on a stand (RHS). once you take out both bolts, there's enough slack  in the splines to just slide the yoke up and pop it off the pinion - all except undoing the top bolt was done from under the car.

 

Make sure you mark something first, so you know where it needs to go, though!.. and one notch is probably 2" shift on the circumference of the steering wheel.

 

Once my camber is set neutral side/side (factory is zero camber, I think ? - will check), I plan to dial it a more negative, too.  My tyres always wear out by scrubbing the outside edges first.

[Beckers]

From memory the outbacks have positive camber setting from the factory.

I run -.7 deg per side, tyres seem to wear fine.

[JDWhiteWRX]

Thanks, sounds like one notch is all I need. I have found both my subies love camber, zero the toe and tyre wear is not an issue, I used to run -3.5 deg up front on my wrx, daily driven and raced with perfect even tyre wear, zero toe is the key.

[Beckers]

Thanks, sounds like one notch is all I need. I have found both my subies love camber, zero the toe and tyre wear is not an issue, I used to run -3.5 deg up front on my wrx, daily driven and raced with perfect even tyre wear, zero toe is the key.

 

I agree, Zero toe is the way to go.

Fark, -3.5 on the street is alot of neg camber.

But hey what ever works for ya.

[duncanm]

Bugger,
 
tyre shop didn't have the time this morning to oxy my seized tie-rod lock nut. 
 
He's done all the other settings, but the LH is toe'd out heaps - 10mm. I'm taking it back on Monday so he can spend some time getting that bastard nut off.
 
Suby - I'm very concerned about knock.. so only feeding her the best fuel I can get (98 - no 100 at normal pumps any more), and listening out for any signs of pinging.. I'm also trying to get an SSM cable/setup up and running: I tried my vag-com cable and freessm today, 'cos I want to keep an eye on the timing maps - no luck. Seems I should have done more research, as I got the wrong chipset, and need to buy a "FT232BL" cable instead. $12 on ebay from HK.  

 

Just out of interest, how are people checking their own camber?  Flat surface and a spirit level, getting a shop to set it, or estimating from the camber bolt markings?

 

Warmed up the second turbo last night... wheeee!!!

[JDWhiteWRX]

Its basically a car set up for racing but still driven to work each day. These days I have the Outback so the wrx only leaves the garage when I'm racing. My camber was always from the tyre shop printout.

[duncanm]

oh yeh - forgot about them. 95 or 98 plus ethanol.

 

Not one near me - Drummoyne is the closest.

[Jimbo]

Don't worry about it mate. They run on 98 just fine.

[allpaw4]

Don't put ethanol in a Subaru. Unless you are talking gen 5, they are not rated for it. The import models handle 98 fine, you'll just see some knock correction happening due to the tuning being done on 100. I recommend getting it retuned for the lower grade fuel, but failing that 98 will be fine.