491 replies to this topic

[aekOne]

Where'd you get the slip done mate? I need to get one done too

[duncanm]

Where'd you get the slip done mate? I need to get one done too

 

just my closest AUSVIS station - Billy's Automotive Services on Sefton Rd, Thornleigh.

 

He wasn't even interested that I'd turbo'd it. Just wanted to check the engine number and evidence of a purchase (I lent him the VIN plate from the cut and Ichiban's invoice. Neither of which had an engine number).

[Morgan]

$27??? Blue slips are $59.

[Matt]

Its a change of details...not a blue slip...all they look at is the number on the block and that its not dodgy

[Morgan]

Ah. That makes sense!

[93tzlegacy]

hey mate i just realised why your D/ range is popping out, youve used a TT cross member on a non de lifted outback, the box is siting higher up in th tunnel than it should be . best bet pull the TT x member back out  anf get the outback one side by side, i'm pretty sure the only difference in the TT and outback ones ( for clearing the dumps) is the centre section that joins the front and rear sub members together. well done on the conversion mate . 

[duncanm]

hey mate i just realised why your D/ range is popping out, youve used a TT cross member on a non de lifted outback, the box is siting higher up in th tunnel than it should be . best bet pull the TT x member back out  anf get the outback one side by side, i'm pretty sure the only difference in the TT and outback ones ( for clearing the dumps) is the centre section that joins the front and rear sub members together. well done on the conversion mate . 

 

Nup.. I almost made that mistake until I noticed the big spacers tack welded to the front section of the outback crossmember. I then checked the rear one, and the outback has slightly more lift there, too.

 

I bolted the outback transverse sections to the TT longitudinal centre section.

 

I'm not sure that would cause my problems anyway - as you know, the dual range uses a cable, so relative positions of each end shouldn't matter.

 

Thought I had it this morning - I realised last night that I had set the dual range lever adjust when in low range - it should be done in high. Nup - that wasn't it. I've packed the spring with a fat washer, which helps, but that's just a bodge.. not the fix.  Its a bit weird - you can feel on the dual range lever it getting slowly pushed out of high range when compression braking. It just wiggles its way up until it pops out. 

 

 

Today's big task - the final big ticket item I think - was to wire up the fuel pump controller. Pulled out the passenger side rear interior and found two holes which matched the controller bracket just in front of the jack storage. Bolted it in, spent about an hour pulling out the right gauge and coloured wires from the old harness, ran wires down to the pump harness plug (under the passenger side rear seat), then had to run two long ones up to the driver's side footwell where the bulkhead harness signals for the controller from the ECM come to. That involved lots of interior pulling on the drivers' side steps, of course.

 

Seems to be doing its job. 5s power-on when switched to Acc, initial startup has the pump running at 12V for a while, then it drops to 8V on idle. No more whiny pump when cruising or idling, win!

 

 

Ben - you don't happen to have the passenger side intercooler bracket somewhere?  It isn't in any of my remaining bits, neither is the matching rubber grommet.

[duncanm]

Its a change of details...not a blue slip...all they look at is the number on the block and that its not dodgy

 

Not sure about that.

 

Report says: "Safety check, ID check, design check"

 

I've got NFI what safety checks were done, if any, but he did tell me he couldn't do it while I waited.

 

The safety and identity check are what was previously called blue slip.

[duncanm]

btw - new engine is very addictive. I had to take a 15min detour when I popped down to the hardware store.

 

I haven't had a chance to really fang it yet -- need to hit the freeway; maybe blast up from Brooklyn on the F1

[duncanm]

Suby,

 

if you mean the big rubber donuts - I checked them out visually, but no more - I did use the ones that came with the cut, not my outback mounts.  Would soft/gone mounts affect the range shift given its on a cable?

 

The gearbox mount I sika'd up also looked ok. I imagine the Sika has made the gearbox sag a little less on the mount, but don't see why that should affect the low/hi selector.

 

Got any other ideas? I'm beginning to think I should check the range shift fork detent ball and spring, although the engagement seems as positive as it was before (same 'chunky-ness' if you get my drift);  Is this accessible from the outside of the box? The FSM I have isn't real clear.

[Matt]

Not sure about that.
 
Report says: "Safety check, ID check, design check"
 
I've got NFI what safety checks were done, if any, but he did tell me he couldn't do it while I waited.
 
The safety and identity check are what was previously called blue slip.

I watched my local do mine on my sti conversion....he spent 5 mins looking in the bay and come back and said where da fark is the engine number...I showed him and he closed the bonnet..took my money and said go to the rta and hand the papers in

I asked dont yous do a blue slip? and he said nope I just check the number and that the engine aint stolen...and that the engine looks safely installed....ie its only a change of details..not a blue slip...or else stuff probably wouldnt pass lol

[OuTTback]

It's the massive increase in "torques"  your engine is producing..........overloading that sucker!!

[duncanm]

Remove cable and go for a drive. See if it pops out then .

 

and then how do I get home to put the cable back on?      I'm not pulling the I/C and other guff at some random place on the road.

 

Ok.. I'm kidding, sort-of.  That's not a bad idea for the gear-lever end. I'll give it a go.

[duncanm]

OuTTback mentioned the intercooler shroud gap. 

 

Fixed it this morning with some rubber extrusion from Clark Rubber

 

The extrusion - note chewed up hands from doing up intercooler piping clamps. I was hoping to find some simple H-section that would be big enough. This stuff is called a 'pinch weld' and has a steel clip channel running in it that needs to be snipped on the outer edge at each 90deg bend when you put it on the shroud

 

 

Fitted. You can see the snipped corners.

 

 

And voila! no more gaping chasm..

 

[Beckers]

Win on the rubber extension.

I won't have that problem, as mine has be delifted.

Glad that you are lovin the extra powar.

[Barbbachello]

I won't have that problem, as mine has be delifted.

No it hasnt. Can still get my fist in your guards m8. Also build thread pls

[Beckers]

No it hasnt. Can still get my fist in your guards m8. Also build thread pls

 

Ok, it's not as low as your car Nicko.

But it is fully delifted, apart from the outback springs in the rear struts.

 

Build thread coming this decade or before your STI conversion is done.

[Barbbachello]

Build thread coming this decade or before your STI conversion is done.

Touche

[duncanm]

Beckers,

 

I hope yours has more editing. This thread is a bit come as you are.. updated as I went.  I'm expecting war and peace from you, except without the interminable boredom.

[duncanm]

Final electrical -- CD stacker just needed the cassette removed and inserted. Wiring is all through the audio bus/cable. Voila.

 

I also wired in a sneaky kill switch after I had an inspiration on switch location and which signals to intercept.

 

I thought I had the dual range shifter sorted last night. Idiot mechanic who did the conversion didn't attach the cable clip half way along the transmission. Typical!.. that made it better -- but not quite there yet.

 

She's running very smoothly. Drove some errands on the weekend and to work and back today. Temp gauge is rock solid, boost seems consistent (seat of pants), all controls and electricals are fine, no CELs, HIDS are awesome, and she starts and runs without hassle. 

 

AC regas on Wed (lets hope the compressor from the cut is ok),  and a wheel alignment ASAP. I also need to straighten the steering wheel, which is off by about 15deg (it was hard to judge 'straight ahead' when it was up on stands with no wheels attached).