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Gen3 outback - TT conversion

gen3 outback twin turbo swap sleeper

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#341 duncanm

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Posted 04 May 2016 - 03:22 PM

good to know for future reference, thanks.

#342 duncanm

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Posted 10 May 2016 - 10:42 PM

ok - new drive gear arrived at work today and I got stuck into it after dinner tonight.

Pushed (well, drove) on the bearing, measured the relevant distances -- same as old drive gear. No change in spacer washers.

Slapped it in. Bolted everything back together, put a nolathane front shift stay bush in while I was there, alarming noises gone.
 
win.

One other slightly alarming thing I found while in there was the center diff.  The viscous retaining spiral ring looked like it has started to pop out of its groove.  Bad things happen if this occurs.  I managed to tap it back in place (sort of screwing it back in).

 

Here it is before I fixed it, you can see the end of the spiral ring poking proud of the surface.
 
Attached File  DSC_0775.jpg   31.89KB   7 downloads



#343 duncanm

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Posted 05 June 2016 - 08:07 PM

So after running the new transfer gears and bearings for a little, I drained the gearbag oil (Castrol) just to check its health.  I've replaced it with Penrite Full Synth 75W90 GL5.

 

Cold shifting is definitely better -- haven't really noticed any difference once warm.

 

The poly front shift stay bush has firmed up the shift nicely.  No real noticeable increase in NVH.

 

Went and bought a proper turbo gearbox dipstick -- but its not the same length as the N/A one..  I presume the dipstick tube on top of the gearbox is a different length.  Will have to keep my eye out at a wrecker and see if I can just pull the tube off a turbo box (I'm guessing its an interference fit).



#344 El_Freddo

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Posted 05 June 2016 - 08:20 PM

Best of luck swapping one of those tubes. You're correct in that the turbo dipstick tube being longer, hence the turbo dipstick being longer. I'm glad you didn't drop your oil level because the new dipstick said to...

As for the tube, I've not had one out and I reckon it's one of those cold press fits so there's no chance of oil coming out.

I'd love a dip stick tube that's higher - less chance of water getting into the gearbox and easier to make up a breather fitment for it too IMO.

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#345 duncanm

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Posted 26 June 2016 - 11:52 AM

Finally (2 years after the fact!) got around to fixing up my cruise control.

 

Yesterday I buzzed out the cruise switch + module -- all ok except for a missing ground on the cruise switch. Fixed that, and bolted the cruise actuator to a suitable point on the firewall.

 

Then this morning I made up a bracket for the cruise throttle cable (inspired by someone else here recently if I recall correctly) -- needs to anchor in a different spot, as the bracket to throttle wheel distance is about an inch longer than the outback.

 

The bolt for the plastic engine cover holds it down, while the bent tab at the front anchors it.

 

DSC_0783.jpg



#346 Barbbachello

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Posted 26 June 2016 - 06:56 PM

Who says you need a GD engine for cruise control on a turbot conversion :P. Looks good


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#347 Lukeoly

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Posted 07 July 2016 - 01:09 PM

Nice work on the cable mount man. I've missed having cruise so much.

I picked up a Bugeye cruise module last weekend. By the looks of it, the module is identical to the BH one but just has a longer cable. We'll see how the install goes this weekend.


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#348 duncanm

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Posted 24 July 2016 - 03:57 PM

Been having some issues with sticky front calipers.

Rebuilt the spare pair I had with new seals, boots etc and slapped them on today.

Strangely, the GTB calipers (my 'spares') have a different mounting plate (or whatever its called, the bit that bolts to the hub) which don't clear the little perpendicular protuberance that is on one end of the outer brake pad. Put it all in with a 'half and half' pairing of outback plate and GTB caliper.

I need to put new pads in, so I'll investigate further then - I'm not entirely comfortable with mixing brake components.

EDITED - I think the spring protuberance is the audible wear indicator ?

#349 cowie165

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Posted 24 July 2016 - 06:55 PM

Duncan this is slight OT with your brakes, but wanted to ask if the cruise control is an easy fit? Pull the parts from EJ25 and grab a steering wheel back cup and cruise stalk? Just wanted to check it works independent of the ECU etc.


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#350 duncanm

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Posted 24 July 2016 - 07:28 PM

Yup,

cruise is independent of ECM. I think you just need the control box (left of glovebox), cruise actuator, switch and stalk, and it taps into the speed signal. Will probably also need to add clutch and brake switches.

I can post a couple of wiring diagrams -- none of them were 'quite right' - but mostly correct.

#351 Reevesy

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Posted 24 July 2016 - 08:00 PM

Duncan this is slight OT with your brakes, but wanted to ask if the cruise control is an easy fit? Pull the parts from EJ25 and grab a steering wheel back cup and cruise stalk? Just wanted to check it works independent of the ECU etc.

Got a parts car you can pull everything out if you want.

#352 cowie165

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Posted 24 July 2016 - 08:11 PM

Got a parts car you can pull everything out if you want.

 

Ooo, sold! Trade you a space saver spare for cruise bits


"Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure."
 
BH9 02-05 / BD9 07-14 / BE5 14-> / GGA 18->
 
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#353 cowie165

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Posted 24 July 2016 - 08:14 PM

Yup,

cruise is independent of ECM. I think you just need the control box (left of glovebox), cruise actuator, switch and stalk, and it taps into the speed signal. Will probably also need to add clutch and brake switches.

I can post a couple of wiring diagrams -- none of them were 'quite right' - but mostly correct.

 

No rush, but when you get the time that would be awesome. RevC should match perfectly and a headstart would be great, thanks duncan


"Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure."
 
BH9 02-05 / BD9 07-14 / BE5 14-> / GGA 18->
 
2001 Legacy B4-RSK / 1999 ZX-9R C2


#354 duncanm

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Posted 26 July 2016 - 10:28 PM

Ok - cruise.

Here's the two diagrams I have.

First is out of my '1998-2003 FSM', but is not entirely correct. My cruise actuator, for instance, has 4 pins, not 6, and some of the pins to the cruise module are wrong.

Attached File  Liberty_1998-2003_FSM_cruise.pdf   68.08KB   3 downloads

The second is actually US (I think) - from Gen2 -- but maybe my gen3 is early enough ('99) that it uses this cruise control module and actuator.  I have a small vacuum pump and a vac-actuated cruise throttle cable.

This one is almost correct - it shows the correct cruise module and actuator pins, however

  • colours are mostly wrong
  • ground of pin 6 on the cruise switch is via SMJ:M2
  • other connections that are marked as going through 'B38' pass through the SMJ (B36 - pins match the above FSM diagram, I think)
  • power goes to FB-10 (brake switch) and FB-20 (pin12 on cruise module)
  • pins and connectors more closely reflect the FSM above, rather than this diagram
  • I tapped into the speed sensor signal at the SMJ B36:E4

Attached File  cruise-control-schematic-96d.gif   74.72KB   4 downloads

 

 

Don't forget to pinch both the clutch and brake NC switches from your donor - and the wiring and plug to the cruise module (which is what made it obvious to me, for instance, that the FSM wiring diagram I had was wrong)



#355 duncanm

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Posted 26 July 2016 - 10:38 PM

Been having some issues with sticky front calipers.

Rebuilt the spare pair I had with new seals, boots etc and slapped them on today.

Strangely, the GTB calipers (my 'spares') have a different mounting plate (or whatever its called, the bit that bolts to the hub) which don't clear the little perpendicular protuberance that is on one end of the outer brake pad. Put it all in with a 'half and half' pairing of outback plate and GTB caliper.

I need to put new pads in, so I'll investigate further then - I'm not entirely comfortable with mixing brake components.

EDITED - I think the spring protuberance is the audible wear indicator ?

 

derrr...  so the reason the mounting plates are different is because the other ones I have are for the smaller (277?) rotor - not only won't the audible wear indicator fit, but they won't fit over the rotor.. Caliper itself seems the same, so I'm sticking to my hybrids.

 

New 294mm rotors ($55 ea at Repco. Made by NTK), new fluid and QFM HPX pads went on tonight.  Bedded them in and we're good to go.



#356 Dinka

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Posted 19 September 2016 - 04:52 PM

How well is the Stock Drivetrain holding up ?



#357 duncanm

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Posted 19 September 2016 - 07:26 PM

stock drivetrain seems ok.

 

It certainly not pristine -- the rear diff bushes need attention, and maybe other bushes in the back, synchros are getting a bit tired in 2nd and third.  But its done 270k or so - I put that down to normal wear and tear.

 

I don't thrash it too often, though.



#358 Robert

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Posted 19 September 2016 - 08:12 PM

Along as you don't do clutch dumps the driveline should hold up perfectly fine

i think the tt set up would be nicer on the box than a single turbo
As the power not a sudden surge, slightly more progrsssive

#359 duncanm

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Posted 20 September 2016 - 12:00 PM

Score.

 

MRT 3" stainless, full turbo back, divorced downpipe... and an oxy sensor thrown in.

 

You don't want to know what I paid for it.

 

Attached File  DSC_0809.jpg   68.68KB   3 downloads

Attached File  DSC_0810.jpg   79.83KB   3 downloads



#360 Barbbachello

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Posted 20 September 2016 - 12:55 PM

fiddy bucks?


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